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Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
Handlebar considerations – a hint

Along with the 168 frame I ordered a 100/400mm fully integrated handlebar. I also ordered the VB-HB-021 (2021 New Carbon Handlebar with Separate Stem) with a 110mm stem and a 400mm bar. With the VB-HB-021 option I intended to have a longer cockpit compared to the fully integrated one. However, it turned out that the VB-HB-021 option is shorter than the fully integrated one, although number wise the stem is longer.

Handlebars and stems are always very tricky. What you have seen could have been seen beforehand (if you know what to look for and know about the hurdles there.)

Lets assume the integrated one also has a bar and stem part to explain your problem.

The integrated bar has a given reach of 80mm vs the 75mm of the separated bar. So with identical stems the integrated one would be 5mm longer - this would lessen the difference to 5mm with identical 100mm or 110mm stems.

BUT the stem angles are different - the integrated one levels out, while the separated one still has some upward angle.
This is very hard to decipher from the website - I tried to illustrate this below.

1 is the separated one - see the angle? Also visible in the placement of the measure of 90/100 etc.
2 is the integrated one - no angle at the connection point.

So if you are just looking for the "reach" of the stem the 100mm integrated one is probably more like 95mm and the separate is angled so much upward that 110mm might be less than 100mm - combine this with 5mm less reach in the bar and your observation makes sense.

You can play around with the Stem Comparison tool to figure things like this out in more detail: http://yojimg.net/bike/web_tools/stem.php

BTW: Full disclosure - I would have made the identical mistake and as I went with the integrated bar and had to guess the real reach with no real angle given it came out a bit different than I planned... paired with the long SRAM Hoods my fit is a little off, so more spacers than planned have to stay for the moment.

June 11, 2022, 05:59:22 PM
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
thanks a lot for this hint/description!
I also went with the separatet Bar/stem Combo and now I am about to change it towards a HB010.
The separated one with 100mm stem technically fits perfectly but just doesn`t look good imho so I am now trying to figure out which size I shall pick for the HB010.

I have now repeatedly stumbled on your post and the explanation of dodgiepapa in Post #1090. It totally makes sense, that despite the 5mm more reach of the HB010 also the angle makes a difference, but I hardly cant imagine that this extends the total reach by such a significant amount as you`ve shown.

Did you doublecheck if VB really delivered the correct sizes for both systems by measuring the stem length or equivalent measure for the HB010 only?
If not it would be great if you could doublecheck it. I also recently ordered a 110 stem and got a 120mm instead^^

thanks again and kind regards

I ordered the HB010 with 400mm width. The maximum length shown on the HP is 100mm. Thus, I doubt that they delivered something longer than that. Also from measurements it seems to be a 100 stem.

April 05, 2023, 06:25:12 AM
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
Finally found some minutes to elaborate on this topic!

in Short:
my saddle looked the same as for Siejak, - I was able to fix it by inserting three small sheets of a soda can metal foil  at the right side between Seatpost and Frame.  By doing so, the Saddle was perfectly aligned.

To those who are affected, - just loosen your seatpost clamp and try to rotate the saddle to the left and right. I was able to rotate it by approx. ± 5 degree. As soon as the clamping device is tensioned, the notch of the saddle rotates to the right and the gap between seatpost and frame looks like described in the prior post.

If someone is motivated to dig deeper: Maybe the root cause for the misalignment is not the huge clearance between seatpost and frame but the contact angle of clamping inlet to seatpost. (=clamping device forces the seatpost to rotate). If thats the case, modifying the clamping device would also solve the problem.

For the time being, i will continue with my fix since it simply worked.

The dust cap covers the shims perfectly, - they are invisible now and the saddle is perfectly aligned when clamped with 5-6Nm.

kind regards

The can fix worked for me so far. Hoping it doesn’t cause a slip and drop the seat post. Guess that’s the price we pay buying open mold.

April 14, 2023, 07:39:29 PM
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
The C Ring is way too stiff since its just massive. Due to that, the headset needs to be compressed with a lot higher force than its made for in order to cause the elastic deformation of the C clip which is needed to close the gap between inner bearing ring and fork tube (which is what it is all about in order to avoid headset play).
I guess this is why many people complain about headset play even though they tightened everything. Also the stated problems with de-formed top caps might be a result of the high compression forces.

Good observations and definitely true. I cant believe so many Chinese framesets use this C-ring design. To stiff and too open. All this compression on this C-ring will just end up scoring your headset bearings.

May 09, 2023, 04:10:25 AM
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame Just another photo...

2 months revie: no issues  8)

May 13, 2023, 02:45:28 PM
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Re: Unreadable Topic: "VeloBuild Headset Play Issue" Hi everyone - We wanted to share a quick update and let you know we have been listening to your feedback and have designed a new c ring. The new design has a small cut out that allows for a better grip on the steerer to take place once the headset is compressed.

For those that are having issues, please get in touch at info@velobuild.com so we can sort you out with a newly designed c ring. For those that are still using the original or second design without issue, please know you can continue using them without concern!

May 29, 2023, 02:31:17 PM
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame Hi all - We just posted an updated regarding a newly designed c ring here: http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4183.msg46386.html#msg46386

Please check it out!

May 29, 2023, 02:32:37 PM
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Re: Which frame could it be? Leeze Aero One It looks a bit like this from light carbon: https://www.lightcarbon.com/new-integrated-road-disc-brake-frame_p136.html
June 10, 2023, 05:25:33 PM
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Re: Which frame could it be? BALDISO Air Flight One It looks a lot like the Workswell WCB-R-306

https://www.workswellbikes.com/race/wcb-r-306-disc-brake.html

Especially with the angular top bit of the seatstays.

Insanly good looking frame and very light according to the workswell website.

August 02, 2023, 06:36:25 AM
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame Hey guys, I finished my build last week. Wanted to share my experience with you and say thanks for all the insights!

I went with a 168 frameset, custom painted in size 54. The ordering process was fine, Chris was responsive and answered all/most of my questions. Settling on the color for the paintjob was not straightforward however, as I wanted a special color for which I had a pantone code (metallic color as per pantone code). He always said that they can do the color, but “not metallic” which was quite confusing since the color code was referring to a metallic color.
So after a bit of back and forth, we decided to try a candy-blue paintjob (transparent blue over metallic silver base). After a week, he sent pictures of the painted frame and said that they will paint another one as it wasn’t metallic enough (without even asking me if I was happy with the paintjob). So another week later, I had two “versions” of the paintjob to choose from, and I chose the second one.
The paintjob turned out way better than expected, they did a really good job!

I received the frame via DHL to my door (Germany), with XDB shipping and no additional duties within 10 days after it got shipped.

Frame quality was good. The inside of the fork had a few loose glassfiber-bits inside, maybe the reaming wasn’t perfectly done. I removed most of them, but the steerer tube was a bit to tight for the Deda 70 compression plug, so I sanded down the lower part of the compression plug a tiny bit.

As for the compression ring, I went with the SL8 one that I got from Specialized for 5€. As the SL8 uses a Headset Bearing with an ID that is 0.5mm larger than the VB, I had to modify the compression ring by sanding (no issue since its made from plastic).
To ensure enough clearance between the frame and the lowest headset spacer, I had to use 5 FSA microspacers that I cut to allow for internal cable routing. I also bent the lowest microspacer to prevent the sharp edges of the cut spacers from damaging the brake hoses. (as seen in the pictures)
Headset is free of any play.
I used the separate bar/stem combo, but 3D-printed a topcap that allows to run spacers above the stem to validate the position before cutting the steerer (too) short.
Routing the brake hoses (no shifter cables, as I run semi-wireless Di2) trough the bars was tough and required some sanding to remove the sharp edges on the exit holes in the handlebar. (I have tons of respect to you guys who manage to route 4 cables trough those handlebars, lol. Seems impossible from my perspective)

Building the bike was straightforward. BB was properly sized (a tiny bit undersized, but the Token Ninja BB pressed/threaded in fine).

As for the seatpost, I originally planned to replace the aluminium hardware with carbon parts from an old Elita One seatpost. However, they did not fit (and were only marginally lighter anyways). Has anyone found good replacement hardware to shave a few grams of that seatpost?
However, I had no issue with a slipping seatpost (used carbon paste) so far.

Regarding the weights:
•   Frame (without any hardware, Size 54, painted in “candy blue”): 1025g (photo shows frame with hardware and axle)
•   FD Hanger with screws: 15g
•   RD Hanger with screws: 17g
•   Uncut Fork incl. separate crown race: 428g (cut to about 402g, with a few cm left to be cut)
•   Stem 100mm (without Topcap): 193g
•   Handlebar 400mm: 270 g (quite a bit heavier than expected)
•   Headset spacers (all, without c-ring):77g
•   SL8 C-Ring: 5g
•   Seatpost: 240g
•   Seatpost grommet: 2,4g
•   Seatpost wedge: 24g
•   Front Axle: 37g
•   Rear Axle: 45g
•   Headset bearings: 62g

The whole build with complete Ultegra Di2 R8100 came out at 7,78 kg without pedals or 8,19kg with Pedals, Bottle cages, computer mount.
Once I dialed in my fit (coming from an endurance frame that was already slammed, I will slowly lower my position), I will probably shave a few hundred gramms by switching to a lighter cockpit, saddle… Also thinking about a lighter wheelset (currently at 1635g for the pair).

Complete price was also quite competitive I guess, as I paid less than 2800 euros for the whole setup with frameset, groupset, wheels, tires, small bits etc (without pedals & cages), including shipping and taxes. (all bought new, so no second hand prices).

Bike rides really well without any issues, but I have to get some more kilometers in! Definitely happy with my build so far!

September 15, 2023, 08:02:09 AM
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