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Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
Hi everyone, I've replaced most of my bolts with black Ti ones, what you need is: Steerer Clamp Bolt M5 x 18mm x2 Steerer Clamp Bolt M5 Washer x2 Front Brake bolt M5 x 16mm x2 Front Brake washer M5 Washer x2 Rear Brake bolt M5 x 35mm x2 Rear Brake washer M5 Washer x2 Seat post bolt M6 x 30mm x1 Seat post nut M6 x 20mm x1 Seat post nut M6 x 13mm x1 Seat post bolt M6 x 35mm x1 Computer MountBolt M4 x 25mm x2 Computer MountBolt M4 Washer x2 Hope this helps. December 10, 2021, 08:23:04 AM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
Hi all, Had my first ride on my VB-R-168 today and absolutely LOVE it. The build went together really well, with the only issue being that I needed to file around 2mm of material off the inside of the front derailleur stop so the cable and ferrule could sit in correctly when routing under the bottom bracket. I did experience difficulty in routing the cables through the bars but it's my first time building a bike so it was to be expected. In general I would say the overall quality of the bike is great, especially when considering how much the frame is! For context, I'm coming off a Triban RC520, a full aluminium, relaxed geo, 9kg beginners road bike, and up until today was the only road bike I had ridden. Compared to the RC520, the 168 is much stiffer, accelerates faster, transfers power better and holds speed very well once you get going, however it also seems very comfortable and compliant with no issues on the cobbles I rode today. My 35km ride today was a local loop I know very well and I managed to get a number of Strava PR's (smashing some of my previous times). I haven't ridden/trained for the last 6 weeks so fitness wasn't great and there were some hellish headwinds, which shows just how fast the bike is. Without a power meter I can only go off avg. speed, and based on todays ride I think I've gained between 4 to 5km/h with the 168 which is more than I expected if I'm honest - I was averaging 32km/h on my ride and it felt pretty straightforward to maintain 37km/h, when pushing I was hitting between 44 to 52km/h which I could get nowhere near on my RC520 - all of this was on flat roads so no benefit from going downhill  it's a VERY fast bike.I got the frame with the HB011 bar, when static and you test the bar for flex there is a small amount which I was a bit disappointed with, however when you're actually on the bike and sprinting in the drops I couldn't feel any flex at all, which was a very pleasant surprise. Aside from the frame, the other Chiner components I have are the Juin Tech GT's which are great, much better than my previous TRP HY/RDs, and the SROAD SLR2 cassette which shifts very well and is super light! Overall, super happy and would highly recommend the frame! A full parts list and weight per part for my build is here: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1JRhus6SxSn-_OqfEiuNH-_bxQrsS67ouus0gICANTKk/edit#gid=704196738 I'll put some better pictures of the bike up when I have time. If you have any questions on the build, fire away! Olie March 14, 2022, 03:15:39 PM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
Here's the seat post clamp I've used on my vbr086 and vbr168. I'm pretty sure someone else on here found it. https://a.aliexpress.com/_m0j1Eoe April 20, 2022, 10:44:05 PM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
Be aware that you will find these bearings with different hight, e.g. Mine (almost the same frame) came with a 7 upper and 8mm lower bearing. I replaced both with lightweight FSA MR128R (same as Cane creek AER) 7mm bearings. I do not see any reason to have an 8mm bottom, only increases the gap between frame and fork. Also, saved like a total of 15 grams with premium lightweight bearings July 26, 2022, 07:20:48 AM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
I don't think everyone cooks their own soup  
July 27, 2022, 10:03:25 AM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
How did you manage with routing the mechanical front derailleur cable? I used a Shimano outer cable end cap/ferrule, specifically the 4mm "long nose" version which helps quite a bit when initially routing. Step 1: Unscrew the metal derailleur cable stopper guide attached to the frame. Step 2: Gently guide the outer shift cable and ferrule through the cable stopper. This requires a little patience and finesse through the bottom bracket opening. Step 3: Reattach the derailleur cable stopper guide. Pro Tip - To help guide the outer cable through the cable stopper...use an old (or new) shift cable as a "fish hook". August 11, 2022, 05:43:56 PM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
I updated the sheet today with the Axle Info and organised new products and images into the tabs (: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1NpMFVEhRhZikKWWa3ZGyseyyIX_4spwQJXQ4DVVXCTA/edit#gid=0 August 11, 2022, 05:56:25 PM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
Fsa acr headset + fsa smr stem combo
March 12, 2023, 10:44:41 AM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
    Almost finished. Still deciding on bar tape. I have some black Supacaz and some blue Lizard Skins. The blue isn't the exact shade as the frame, and I'm not sure it would be too much blue. April 02, 2023, 12:54:17 PM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
...blablabla... Finally found some minutes to elaborate on this topic! in Short: my saddle looked the same as for Siejak, - I was able to fix it by inserting three small sheets of a soda can metal foil at the right side between Seatpost and Frame. By doing so, the Saddle was perfectly aligned. To those who are affected, - just loosen your seatpost clamp and try to rotate the saddle to the left and right. I was able to rotate it by approx. ± 5 degree. As soon as the clamping device is tensioned, the notch of the saddle rotates to the right and the gap between seatpost and frame looks like described in the prior post. If someone is motivated to dig deeper: Maybe the root cause for the misalignment is not the huge clearance between seatpost and frame but the contact angle of clamping inlet to seatpost. (=clamping device forces the seatpost to rotate). If thats the case, modifying the clamping device would also solve the problem. For the time being, i will continue with my fix since it simply worked. The dust cap covers the shims perfectly, - they are invisible now and the saddle is perfectly aligned when clamped with 5-6Nm. kind regards April 11, 2023, 05:18:36 PM |
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