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Re: dcrf26 frame - Scott Foil?
if you can wait a few days i'll take the measurements
September 12, 2023, 01:32:07 AM |
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Re: dcrf26 frame - Scott Foil?
Can someone please tell me the length of the seatpost? Is a minimum insertion length printed on it or otherwise mentioned? Seatpost length is 350mm. Minimum insertion is usually 1/3 of that. September 26, 2023, 12:14:41 PM |
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Re: dcrf26 frame - Scott Foil?
@Sebastian: can you also tell me the maximum tire clearance in the rear please? Exact measurements have been posted here a few pages back. I have not received my own frame yet. September 30, 2023, 11:53:39 AM |
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Re: TanTan TT-X38 Build
@c.etzo: are you happy with the saddle, is it comfortable or is the 3D printed layer too thin?I've done 20 hours in 2 weeks and it's ok ! Comfortable October 06, 2023, 11:44:29 AM |
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Re: TanTan TT-X38 Build
Which one did you buy? https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805684927838.html X7P-3D October 06, 2023, 12:51:17 PM |
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Re: TanTan TT-X38 Build
 V1 is done and rideable. Haven't had a chance to go out on it yet, hehe. In like 10 days I'll swap that cockpit out. Couple of change to the build: - Ended up going tubeless instead of using TPU tubes. - Elitewheels couldn't get me the 50s that I ordered in a timely manner, so I just had them swap me for some 47/25 with ceramic bearings *shrug* Otherwise, everything else is the same! October 16, 2023, 12:59:28 PM |
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Re: TanTan TT-X38 Build
Looks really nice! What size is the frame? And how does the saddle feel when you actually sit on it? Thanks! 54cm frame and the saddle is solid so far - not as padded as it feels under hand, which makes sense, but comfortable. Still dialing in the fit a smidge so I’ll report back! October 19, 2023, 01:01:56 AM |
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Re: TanTan TT-X38 Build
So here it is: The build process was a mixed affair. The things I thought would be an issue turned out to actually be pretty straightforward such as: - Routing the brake lines through the headset and bars. - Setting up the brakes rub free - Getting proper preload on the headset There were things that usually take minutes which took ages on this one, like: - Routing the RD cable and plug through the chainstay. Like I said, I had to sand inside the chainstay at the RD cable exit port because there was a sharp edge in there. After that it went through pretty easily. But it took me literally a whole evening of trying. - Setting up the FD - like I just wrote. What an odyssee. It might have to do with my particular cranks. But the FD hanger does sit very far inboard on this one. The seatube is narrow to begin with. There's a recessed area where the FD hanger bolts on to. - My steerer wasn't smooth internally. It also wasn't 100% round. Not as bad as somebody else has posted here but still. Cutting it down revealed no issues. So that's good. But it was a bit of a headache. I'm super happy with how the build turned out. It looks very nice. I was able to replicate my favorite position, but I had to slam the cockpit all the way down with only the top cap. I'm also super happy with the brakes. The Campy calipers look very sleek and they work absolutely flawless with the LTWOO brifters. It's cool how on this bike there are components from LTWOO, Shimano and Campy working happily together.  Final weight is 7.85kg as pictured, including pedals, cages & Garmin mount. Not bad for a 58size frame. But there's a few weight saving components that I migrated from the bike that I retired. TPU tubes, the very light saddle, an SROAD monobloc cassette. Also, the Campy calipers easily save 50-100g to the LTWOO hardware. And the tires are ridiculously light also at roughly 210g a piece. The wheels are very impressive. I'm super stoked to ride them. I've weighed them at 1480g. 24.5mm internal. 31mm external. These 28c tires measure just above 31mm on these rims. There's still ample tire clearance. That was a bit of a worry for me. But this frame easily clears 32mm tires. 32c labelled tires on rims as wide as these might be a different story. But honestly, I think this frame has all the clearance you could ever want from a road bike. I haven't ridden it. The weather is awful here atm and I probably won't get out on the road before Sunday. I'll give this a proper shakedown and at least a few hundred km until I will give a verdict. October 27, 2023, 12:50:11 PM |
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Re: TanTan TT-X38 Build
First 100k done. No real issues apart from fit. I needed to dial the saddle in and refine the position. I tried a 170 crank on this one mainly cuz I got it cheap and there can be a benefit to shorter cranks. I absolutely hate it. I got 175s on all my other bikes and it just feels like I got no leverage on the crankarms when standing up and sprinting up hills. So that will have to go. I found a used sram crank. Luckily I won't have to get another BB. The dub BBs are merely BB30 BBs with a delrin spacer left and right. So just pop these out and put a BB30 crank in and maybe readjust spacing. Also the pedals will have to go. I got so used to the Assioma pedals on my other bike that I'm gonna get a pair of Look Keo-like pedals. The Time pedals feel just way too loose and are giving me anxiety to accidently clip out. The bike feels great and plenty fast. I got very windy autumn weather here atm. So it's hard to tell just how quick it is. It feels slightly more suceptible to cross winds than my VB-R218. The bars are a pleasant surprise. They feel super solid, very stiff and very comfy. I love the hood shape of the LTWOO. The hands just fall in place. The bike is actually very very comfy which might have to do with the wheels and wide tires. Also, the corner grip with these wheels is off the charts. It's crazy how planted it feels around bends. The handling is more neutral and a lot more forgiving than my VB-R218. That's no surprise as the 218 has a very steep steering angle and super aggressive steering characteristic. This one is a bit more muted. The only issue I got is with the front wheel. I get disc rub when standing up. And the rotor has slight play on the hub interface when I rock the front wheel back and forth under braking despite the lockring being torqued down. A bit of research reveals that this seems to be a common issue with centerlock. It might have to do also with the cheap color matched lockrings that I got on Aliexpress. Not sure. I'll get it sorted. It's annoying. This is the first centerlock wheelset that I got. I had 6 bolt interface hubs on my gravel bike where I never had troubles like this. Makes me wonder just what exactly the alleged benefit of centerlock is supposed to be apart from creating another standard. There's really not anything bad I can say about the LTWOO er9. It just works super reliable. I rode in bad weather. The group got covered in road grime. I washed the bike afterwards. Everything seems solid. So far. October 30, 2023, 12:13:51 AM |
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Re: TanTan TT-X38 Build
So I took off the rotor. I see no wear marks on neither the hub nor the rotor splines. I applied a Layer of textile tape between the rotor and the hub splines. Torqued it down. But I still get play if I want to. I might try and apply some Loctite bearing retaining compound between the splines and see if that fixes it. Apart from that: One cool thing about this frame is that because of the shape of the downtube it actually shields the lower headset bearing from road spray. Maybe if you ride in torrential rain and through huge puddles there might be some water ingress. But just riding on wet roads with a bit of rain leaves the lower headset completely dry and free of dirt. On my VB-R218 the lower headset bearing is shot after doing a few wet rides this season. October 30, 2023, 02:17:46 AM |
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