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Re: Winspace T1550 new frame?
32c tires technically do fit. Im curious if i could do the same on my 2022 Elves Falath PRO but with a 30mm tire... i live in a place where its kind of rough. i hope someone could confirm this. April 04, 2024, 09:04:21 AM |
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Re: WheelTop EDS TX Full Wireless Groupset (Chinese SRAM)
I asked wheeltop about this (early March 2024) and they said that due to distribution and patent issues the EDS TX group is currently only available in Europe. There's a list of places they ship to, but not the United States or Canada at the moment. I bought a set (rim brake) from...elsewhere, since Wheeltop doesn't sell to where I am. I have two edx ox sets (older, removable batteries) that have seen some abuse off road and that recommended eds tx to me. I don't worry too much about being able to return parts -- in over 30 years of cycling, the stuff I've had fail has been less "I need to return it to get it warrantied and back on the bike" and more "this has failed in a way that reveals it sucks and I don't want it anymore". But to me that's the downside: no way is anyone servicing this stuff, and I had to order from a place that seemed legit but who knows. And, you have to work through figuring it out for yourself. I used this video: Have used various MTB grouops, Shimano (Ultegra and DA, including Di2, Campy (couple generations of mechanical Chorus), and Sram (lately Force wireless, mech groups before that). Using those as a reference, this group feels solid and well made. The shifting is snappy, spot on. It's probably not quite as fast as Di2 but rear is faster than Force. Front shifting puts SRAM to shame and is much easier than SRAM to set up besides (I'm running Ultegra cassette, chain, cranks). Setup is easy (basically the video above, plus limit screws). The hoods are well shaped and offer some comfortable hand positions. Battery sat around for a week, fiddled around for a long time installing/tuning/test riding, then went for a 3.5 hour ride and it reports 95% remaining in front and 80% remaining in rear. I swapped the buttons for rear shifting because it felt more correct to have the big paddle shift to a harder gear (SRAM righthand functionality I'm used to) and this was easily done on the road with the app. Buttons are a little stiffer than SRAM or Shimano but worked well enough in long-finger gloves. So far so good. I'm hoping this gets me a few more years on a frame/fork/wheels that are fine, just a little out of date. April 07, 2024, 10:24:35 AM |
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Re: WheelTop EDS TX Full Wireless Groupset (Chinese SRAM)
Wait a few months for aluiminium rim brake version to come out. They delayed it to adjust the manufacturing processes because demand was higher than expected
April 07, 2024, 12:46:08 PM |
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Re: VeloBuild VB-R-268 frame
Update on my 268 Highs -I love the Mavic thru-axle system. It's quite convenient actually. Being able to keep the axles in place when both transporting the bike and working on it on a mechanic stand is great. -The bike is both stiff and nimble enough. I can't say there really is any discernible difference in stiffness compared to other bikes. Unless you are truly sprinting or climbing, there will be plenty of other variables in regards to maintaining any set speed. -Visually I appreciate the frame design. Obviously because it looks like an SL7/Venge. Well rounded proportions. The sloping top tube gives the visual impression of an extreme saddle-to-handlebar drop versus a more horizontal top tube. More exposed seatpost (should?) also means more comfort as the seatpost has the ability to flex. 32c GP5000 tubeless fits no problem. Lows -Zero setback seatpost. It's not fully problematic for me, but I had to move my saddle back far more than I'm accustomed to. If this was my only road bike it would most likely be a deal breaker. A non-issue for most folks however. -7x9 saddle clamp for carbon rails. On my particular clamp when using my AliExpress carbon saddle (7x9 rails), visually it does not appear as if the clamps are fully engaging with the rails. Other 268 owners with carbon saddles have not experienced this, and so far the saddle has stayed put. However, the saddle clamp bolt is now slightly bent from trying secure to the rails. Also a non-issue if you're using 7x7 rails as VB also supplies clamps for that too. Just something to be aware of. -While the bike as a whole rides better than my previous VeloBuild frames, it does still suffer some from road chatter at the rear triangle. Rough pavement can upset the back end. Thankfully though still far better than my Dengfu R12 and TanTan x38 in this regard. This is completely subjective and anecdotal of course. Over the past few weeks I've made an effort to rotate riding each of my bikes everyday day to get a good feel on the differences and overall riding dynamics. Closing It's a great DIY bike at the price point so far. As always, wheel selection and bike fit/position will do most of the heavy lifting. If I could change anything it would be adding more reach to cockpit to offset the zero setback seatpost. Dear VeloBuild: Please make one for me thanks! May 02, 2024, 03:06:12 PM |
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Re: WheelTop EDS TX Full Wireless Groupset (Chinese SRAM)
Save us magene
May 19, 2024, 07:57:39 AM |
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Re: WheelTop EDS TX Full Wireless Groupset (Chinese SRAM)
Yes, been there. Go to initial calibration under equipment debugging and manually move the front and rear derailleurs to the positions shown under debugging shifting. Then exit and proceed with fine tuning. I learned to always shift to the large ring in front and the smallest cog in the rear before going back to initial calibration or it calibrates to your current gear position and messes everything up. June 12, 2024, 09:55:46 AM |
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Re: Hygge Aero Carbon Frame
It's been a while since I received the frame but was only able to build the bike 3 weeks ago since I was waiting for the Ultegra DI2 upgrade kit to become available as I did not want to buy a complete groupset and end up with a BB and crankset that I will not use (crank length 172.5- I use 170 and PF BB). Wheelset is Elitewheels 65mm. The build was super easy as am experienced building and servicing bikes and every part fits easily and how it's supposed to be. To address the main issues discussed in this forum, seat post slipping and headset play, I have to say that I did not experience any seatpost slipping, which is mainly due to upgraded seatpost clamp with horizontal striations that lock the grippy part of the seatpost very well, and the mandatory use of carbon paste. As for the headset play, I did some mods to the C-ring. These consist of applying aluminium tape on top of the C-ring to increase the thickness by 0.3 mm (the same can be done with microspacer but I did not have any, so tape it is) and also 3 layers on the inside where the C-ring interfaces the steerer tube. I think that the C-ring needs to be 8,2mm total thickness (stock is 7,9) to avoid headset cover rubbing on the frame. If I did not add the tape, it would have rubbed after torquing down the top cap to 2.5-3 Nm. Another thig is to use carbon assembly paste on stem/steerer interface. After the initial ride the play returned but I did not torque enough initially (only finger tight to take up the slack, which is not enough obviously). Another thing that I done is also applied thread locker to the nut part of the stem bolts since there was none there and the bolts were rattling themselves loose (torqued to 6Nm only to become finger tight) after only one ride. After the mods of the C ring and top cap tightening and thread locker to the stem nuts there is no more play after 500 km with deliberate riding over cracked roads. The supplied garmin mount acts as a leaf spring vibrating the hell out of everything attached to it. So far it has costed me a GPS unit (IGP sport, perfectly fine) which vibrated to disintegration, and yesterday my light had shorted out due to the vibrations. Use aluminium mount which may be sturdier than this thing. The ride feel, as mentioned by other riders is subjective, but compared to my Cube Agree GTC Pro is waaaayyyy better and the bike is stiffer, a lot more responsive, rails corners, fits me a lot better and added 2-3 kmh to my average speeds instantly. Cruising at 45 km/h on the flats seems effortless or at least a lot easier to maintain. Thanks to @TidyDinosaur for advising me on sizing - this thing fits me like a glove (175.5cm 82 cm inseam and went with size S) with full stack of spacers to begin with but as I become more familiar with the bike I will remove 1cm of stack. Total cost of this project 2500 eur. Can't beat that with what you get for this price compared to western brands. P.S. for some reason I am unable to post with attached picture. I was only able to add this post as a quick reply. Any ideas of what might be the issue? June 17, 2024, 03:52:06 AM |
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Re: LEXON Road Carbon Crankset
SO far it has been performing well. Stiff and light, the only issue of the loosening lockring on non-drive side has been solved. The tiny bolt binding it came loose so I applied some medium strength threadlock and now it remained tight. June 24, 2024, 12:06:31 AM |
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Re: LEXON Road Carbon Crankset
In the end I ended up removing the thick shoulder and shortening the axle by 1mm (only). I use a spacer between the lockring for the spider and the spider itself. Now I have a Q-factor of 149mm, but if I measure from pedal insert face, its about 146mm. I also now have more room to evenly space my crank arms and not have the blades touch my frame. It could be that the blades I use (not the lexon carbon ones) also caused the chainline issue, but I like the overall look now better and I dropped another 10grams of weight. I have now ordered the powermeter that goes with it, so will have to check the fit with that. If needed, I can always add in thin spacers between the crank and the spider again. June 24, 2024, 04:45:15 AM |
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Re: Rockbros carbon cranks feedback?
They're the same as lexon cranks, which are basically the same as cybrei cranks
July 22, 2024, 07:53:38 AM |
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