Just throwing this out there for everyone's consideration, the integrated handlebar that shipped with mine is pretty damn loose on the steerer tube, quite a bit more than the bolts can take up. I suspect it was designed to be used with a shim of some kind, but there wasn't one shipped with the frameset. See pics.

Oh duh, that makes sense. Thanks. Is there anything special to consider when shimming carbon to carbon or will any old shim be fine?

Is https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256810334963440.html a knockoff of a Western design? Looks pretty distinctive but I can't readily identify it.
In my experience, little or none. I didn't put huge miles on mine (preferred SQLabs), but I didn't notice any untoward wear from the time I did spend on them.

• Be faster. This one is pretty simple but also requires the most work to test. The key is to be more aero without reducing power. Potential validation ideas: If you can do virtual elevation, ideally with an aerostick or wind speed sensor, you can measure aero. If you cant, a proxy is to reduce frontal area, which generally correlates. Go lower, into the bike with a lower saddle position, go longer to reduce back angle, and put the bars where they allow for a 90-degree bend at the minimal back angle. Go test your sprint at 2min and 20 min power to see if you have drop-offs.
• Increase comfort / reduce back injury and pain. This one is harder to validate without the help of a medical / PT professional. At the extreme, the progressive fit seems to transfer the work of keeping you stable from the lower part of your core towards the upper part. I think a lot of people experience new soreness in the back, shoulders, and traps, but also reduced lower back pain.
• Increase comfort / correct pedal stroke, work around impingement issues to reduce knee and hip injuries. Again, harder to validate without the help of a medical / PT professional. Opening the hip angle also allows you to make more choices regarding cleat position and crank length, potentially enabling you to run longer cranks and find a combination that leads to more hip stability / less impingement. This can also help correct knees that swing out of alignment, which can cause overuse-type injuries on one side of the knee. Greater freedom to get the right crank/cleat position might also help address patella-related injuries
• Increased saddle comfort. This is pretty easy to check. Your saddle feels different in a more forward position, and for me, adding weight back onto the hands and legs and taking off the saddle is something that helps, particularly on gravel rides that are >8 hours.
• Improve handling. Some riders have positions that are too far back and might want to move forward to correct their weight distribution, particularly when descending or entering tighter corners without braking. Others may want a less upright position to get lower for more consistent, more reactive handling. This one is pretty easy to roughly validate. Just send it through a corner repeatedly and see if you feel more confident at higher speeds. For some smaller riders, moving the weight too far forward is a drawback of the position, as it requires a bike with a longer front center. Personally, this was the primary motivator for experimenting with new bike geometries.

1. I consulted our structural engineer. They don't think it's a manufacturing defect, it's a paint flaw.
2. The G028 frame is made of EPS + latex inner membrane. There is no chance of carbon fiber delamination.
3. Fork cables are put in and out of the warehouse using rubber hoses. Use epoxy resin AB glue to fix. It’s not a carbon fiber manufacturing defect.
4. The T47 embedded thread is fixed with high-temperature glue. Will not loosen and fall off.
5. The frames we sell provide 2 years of free warranty. Non-man-made damage. If the frame is damaged within 2 years. We will provide a new frame.