You’ll have to tell us about the ride quality, and how you liked it.

What kind of terrain do you ride with it?

• I fit 650b x 54 mm (measured tires) between the chainstays with ~2-2.5 mm of room on either side! I'm planning on running 650b x 50-52 mm as my gravel setup on new wheels, so this is very nice. I don't have fat 700c tires to test with, but I'll get more exact chainstay measurements later.
• The headset bearing cups are molded well and the provided bearings fit snugly with zero play. I'm using a Token S-Box compression ring and top cap, as I don't like the aluminum C-shaped compression ring that comes with the stock headset - too much risk of fork damage and it's HEAVY. Unfortunately, the Token bearings are 51.8mm OD and have a small amount of play in the 52.0 mm bearing seats, so I can't use them.
• The hose routing hole on the steerer tube is kind of rough, but won't be a concern when it's hidden away in the frame. There was one strand of loose carbon that I sliced off without issue. I pushed a brake hose up from the caliper end and it popped right out the steerer hole without any guidance needed, so the inside is perfectly fine.
• Speaking of the inside, the interior of the frame looks to be very well molded, without much in the way of wrinkles or excess resin. The only real exception are the areas where the chainstays are bonded right behind the bottom bracket, which have some lumpy resin but nothing major. See the endoscope pics in the album.
• There's a cable routing port on the back of the driveside seatstay, which is a far better location than the port on the underside of the chainstay. However, it looks like the seatstay port may only be large enough for electronic cables - not an issue for me since I'm building this up with Di2, but something to consider if you're going mechanical.
• There's a fender mounting boss on the underside of the fork crown. Not super useful on the holeless fork since there's no corresponding mounting holes by the dropouts - I'd like to see those holes present, but clip-on fenders should be fine for the winter.
• The bottom bracket threads are clean, with no point overspray or damage. I'm not sure if the paint around the cups will be damaged by BB installation - I'll be doing that tomorrow with a SRAM T47 BB and an Abbey tools socket, clamped to the frame, so hopefully there's not much room for anything to slip.
• The front thru-axle has measurements written on it but the rear doesn't. Ideally it would, but here's the measurements: ~168mm length, ~15mm thread length, 1.0 pitch (thanks, UDH). The brass washer on the rear axle is captive - good - but the washer on the front isn't retained in any way and just pulls straight off. Also, the rear axle head sits flush with the frame but the front axle head protrudes slightly. The axles are quite heavy, I'll likely replace them in the future.
• The flip chip on the brake side is only retained by the axle! When the axle isn't there, it just falls straight out of the fork. Not good, especially because the driveside chip is elegantly retained by a little grub screw on the tip of the fork blade - why couldn't this have been done on both sides??? This is my biggest complaint since it's so easily avoidable, and actually IS avoided on only one of the blades!
• The brake mounts on the frame and fork look to have been faced, but then not fully masked, so there's a rim of paint around the edges that prevent mounts from sitting flat and flush. I did some experiments with carefully slicing away the paint from one of the fork brake mounts, and it looks pretty good, so I'm going to complete that on all the mounts once I'm done with this post.

Where did you end up sourcing the Token headset from? I've had a look online and they don't seem to be particularly easy to find. Is it the TK1556SP model?

• With tires measuring almost exactly 50 mm, I have 4 mm clearance at the chainstays on each side. I expect the tires to stretch a little bit over time, so it's good to know that if they plump out another 2 mm I'll still have adequate clearance. I didn't bother measuring the front, there's easily >6 mm of room on either side, the fork could probably take a 2.1" tire if it's not too knobby.
  
• The total diameter (including tires) of my 650b wheels is about 1 cm less than my 700c wheels; the ~5 mm difference in radius didn't really change handling but did lower the cranks by that much, which is important because I got two or three pedal strikes, even with a decent choice of line so as to avoid the larger rocks. I'll be getting crank boots since my crankarms are carbon. Not really an issue on terrain where you're not trying to navigate through a rock field, but that does make up some of the more fun routes around here so it applies to my use case.
• Probably due to the far fatter and squarer tire profile, the handling at the front was more sedate than with the 700c wheels; it did take a bit of persuasion to rapidly change direction when I was crawling uphill. No real change with how the rear wheel tracked, though, which was nice. Overall the handling is quite stable but I wouldn't classify it as slack, certainly not on the level of a Stigmata or similarly headtube-angled frames. No problems staying upright the few times that the rear wheel broke traction, which fortunately never happened up front.

• The downtube bottle cage mounts are a bit too far up to fit a 750 ml bottle. I used a bottle cage extender (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805494776538.html but the design is generic) to drop the cage about 2 cm down, which works well. I did drink all of that extra water so it's worth it.
• I didn't get any chainslap on the way up even as I was bouncing around, but did get a fair amount on the rutted dirt descent, even in the big ring and lower gears in the back. I'll be putting on another layer or two of clear tape on top of the single layer that's already on the chainstay, just for a bit more cushioning.
• Being able to run a dropper post may be the single biggest advantage this frame has over an actual Canyon Grail. The dropper is pretty much mandatory for the dirt descents I do and I also use it quite a bit to get aero on parts of descents faster than I can spin my 48/11 top gear (i.e. most of any descent). I have the clamping wedge torqued to 7 Nm and the seatpost hasn't slipped at all - I put a ring of silver Sharpie around the base to make sure - which is impressive, considering how fat I am.
• The rear rim already got a few small nicks from rocks flipping up from under the tire, but I've found with my road rims that a tiny bit of clear nail polish hides such marks on glossy carbon very well.
• The wheelbuilding process on these rims was quite nice. LightBicycle AM728 rims, i9 Torch rear hub + i9 Solix front hub (Torch hubs are effectively impossible to find now and purple ones simply no longer exist  ), Sapim CX Ray/Sprint front/rear respectively. Was my first time building with alloy nipples, Sapim Double Square, and they performed no different than the brass ones I've used before. The internal square part is easy to fit an internal tool (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256802115683590.html) and rotate, which is nice because it allows a spoke holder to keep the bladed spoke aligned without a spoke key in the way.

I'm using the SRAM T47 BB and even though it's nominally for 85.5 shells, I can confirm it works perfectly fine in the 86.5 mm hubshell of this frame. With RED cranks, the fit is absolutely perfect with a 2.5mm driveside spacer and the preload adjuster turned all the way out. My subcompact chainrings sit a little closer to the frame than stock chainrings would, so with a 2 mm driveside spacer you could get some preload adjustment.

• Packaging was very good - actually I'd say exceptional.
• The fork steerer was flawless - even wall thickness, no pitting, and my vernier calipers suggest that it is round.
• The inside of the seat tube was very smooth - no unevenness, tenting, or loose fibers.
• The included seatpost has a rough texture at the clamping area, and it hasn't slipped, with the bolt in the wedge torqued to 4 Nm.
• Routing the hydraulic hose and the mechanical shift cables with foam tubing through the frame was straightforward, so that suggests reasonably clean internal surfaces, even though this is not an EPS frame AFAIK.
• It works great with 2x mechanical shifting.
• No brake rub after adjustment, even with all the paint overspray (see "the bad" below). Perhaps this is due to the forgiving L-Twoo calipers?
• Two mounting positions for the front derailleur hanger enables using 2x chainrings ranging from subcompact to standard.
• Came with a T47-24i bottom bracket and two spare rear derailleur hangers.
• Grommets for both mechanical and electronic shift cables included.
• The headset dust cover with cable entry port for using a regular bar and stem actually fit the frame, unlike the one that VeloBuild supplied with their 066 frame.
• The rubber cover for the seatpost clamp stays in place.

• Paint overspray! So much paint overspray!. On the brake caliper mounts, the brake hose exit port on the fork, and the thru axle "dropouts". And all of the mounting points for bottles and mudguards/fenders on the frame are rough to thread in.
• The threads of the bottom bracket shell were very rough on the NDS, not because of paint overspray, just shoddy workmanship. I tried to clean the threads up with a file, but in the end I took it to my LBS to have them chase the threads. Drive side threads were fine.
• The seat for the top headset bearing was very rough at the front of the seat. The bearing didn't sit flat (it rocked), and there was a loose and sharp piece of carbon fibre sticking out. I saw traces of paint in there, so I suspect there had been paint overspray, and then someone had used a reamer without much care. I fixed it by smoothing it out and building it up using multiple coats of nail polish. The seat for the lower headset bearing was fine.
• I'm using the included headset for a regular bar and stem, and it fits well. However, the headset uses a C-shaped aluminium compression ring that I'm wary of using longer term. All of its edges are chamfered and smooth, which is somewhat reassuring, but I'd still prefer another solution longer term. The Ritchey upper headset that I used on my previous VeloBuild doesn't fit, as the dust cover sits way too high (or the top bearing doesn't sit deep enough in the frame). Same for the headset that came with the Mosso stem from AliExpress. If someone has suggestions for an alternative headset with a compression ring that wraps around the whole steerer, I'd love to hear!

• The saddle rail clamp uses a 5mm bolt at the rear and a 6mm bolt at the front .
• The seatpost doesn't have height adjustment markers.
• The angle of the front derailleur shift cable cable stop/exit port near the bottom bracket makes the mechanical shift housing interfere with installation of the bottom bracket. The bottom bracket I used had a soft plastic shell that was easily deformed by the shift housing, but I managed to line up the sleeve with the cups eventually. A bottom bracket with a stiffer sleeve would likely be much easier to install.
• I asked for a fork without mounting points, as I don't plan to take this bike packing. The seller just painted over the mounting points - I can just about see them through the paint when I look up close.
• The crank arms run so close to the chainstays that a cadence sensor won't fit on the inside of the NDS crank arm when using a Shimano road crankset. I suspect that single-sided NDS crank arm-based power meters (4iiii, Stages) on Shimano road cranksets also wouldn't fit with their protruding pods. Might be fine with GRX cranksets? Fortunately my power meter pedals measure cadence.
• Not the frame, but my L-Twoo R9 set came with two subtly different brake calipers. One was branded just "L-Twoo", the other "L-Twoo R9". The one branded "L-Twoo" used an Allen/Hex key for the bleed port bolt, while the one branded "L-Twoo R9" used a Torx key! #ltwoolife

• The whole side of the shipping box was covered with stamps! (see attached photo)

• Shifters and brakes: L-Twoo R9 hydraulic disc with 2x11-speed mechanical shifting. A lot has been written and said about these shifters, and I don't have a long term review. But I will say that I really love the ergonomics, especially using the thumb shifters, from both the hoods and the drops. And they look much better than the bulbous Shimano 105 ST-R7020 mechanical/hydraulic shifters IMNSHO.
• Rear derailleur: Shimano GRX RD-RX810 11 speed
• Front derailleur: Shimano 105 FD-R7000-F
• Crankset: Shimano 105 FC-R7100 with 50/34T chainrings, 170mm crank arms
• Cassette: Goldix one-piece monobloc CNC, 11-34T. Rear shifts are very smooth with the derailleur clutch off, but a little less smooth with the clutch on. Maybe I should try to adjust the derailleur clutch tension to be less tight?
• Chain: Shimano CN-HG701, immersion hot waxed
• Brake rotors: Meroca RT-RX 160mm x2
• Stem: UNO aluminium 7050 110mm 7 degrees drop
• Handlebars: Specialized Short Reach Flare aluminium 38cm, with 12 degree flare, so 42cm in the drops. 70mm reach, 119mm drop.
• Tyres: Vittoria Corsa N.EXT 34mm tube-type, measure 34mm on the wheels I use.
• Inner tubes: RideNow 39g all-road TPU tubes
• Wheels: EliteWheels Edge Gravel 45mm deep, 31mm external width, 24mm internal width, steel bearings.
• Pedals: Garmin Rally RK100 (transferred from another bike)
• Shift housing: Shimano OptiSlick - purchased an MTB kit for sufficient full-length housing.
• Saddle: Mixed 5D. Not bad, but I'll probably swap it for the 7D.