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Re: Wide Carbon Deep Wheelset options
have you the rim code? i'm looking for a 58mm deep and wide wheelset DC93258. petercycles@foxmail.com (you can find this on the forum though. In fact, do look for him on the forum, he posts a fair amount). If you contact him you can say you're coming from the guy who recently bought 5 of these wheelsets from him. I think i got the 1st rims out of the mould around Aug-Sep 2023. February 13, 2024, 10:39:02 AM |
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Re: VeloBuild VB-R-268 frame
Just wheels to figure out 50 to 60mm with internet 21+ and under 700 dollars and under 1600g would be good suggestions welcome.... must have shiny finish preferably no decals as going no logos with the design. We're here to help! If you want to be at the forefront of aerodynamics, technology, life, the universe and everything, i suggest the 34mm rims in 58 from Peter cycles (look up his contact on the forum, it's like petercycles@something). I bought 5 such wheelsets from him last year. It then means that conti gp5000 in 32C is just under 32mm, so aero wise, your rim is like 105pc of the tyre, and you can impress the ladies with your bro knowledge of aerodynamics. They will cost you <600usd. Alternatively, not quite as wide, look up yuanan on the forum, they're the OEM for Elite wheels and you can customise anything you want. Ask Leon for his rim collection in pdf, he has a 31mm wide 54mm deep ultralight rim that will also be within budget. My sales rep from far sports is on maternity leave. I suggest pillar wing 20 spokes, cheaper than Spain CX ray, and according to people smarter than me, and assuming I understood correctly, they're just as good if not better. If you ask for no holes in the rim bed, you can skip rim tape and save some weight and make your life easier. Have fun April 04, 2024, 02:02:00 AM |
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Re: Yuanan Carbon fiber wheelsets Year end discount promotion
Perfect, love talking about rim design. My ideal wheelset: Let start with the general shape of the rim profiles. Elilptical like the scope rims in the attachment. This is critical in the front rim. This profile provides a great balance of speed and stability and is used by dt swiss/swiss side who make very fast wheels as well as specialised on their very fast roval rapide clx II, though scope claim theirs are even faster. The idea is that the cross section of the tire and rim combined forms an ellipse. It works well both when the airflow hits it for the first time and the tire is the leading edge and rim the trailing edge and when it hits it a second time when the rim is the leading edge and the tire the trailing edge. A V shape does the first well, but absolutelly terrible at the second. Hubs and spokes: Obviously deep aero carbon spokes. The hub interface should be something similar to farsports, scope, crw, etc. Basically replicating a regular straight pull hub but with carbon spokes. This is safer because the spokes wont pop out in case of rapid tension loss, lighter and smaller so more aero. H-works make great hubs like these and aparently dt swiss are moving into this area as well. The spoke to rim interface should have an external nipple like the new superteam wheels, so its possible to true the wheel from the outside with a mounted tire. This makes servicing easier and allows you to true more accurately. It also means you don't need spoke access holes in the rim bed so no need for rim tape. Ideally you would have as much of the nipple still hidden, showing just enough to be able to work on them. Front wheel: 50-55 mm deep, from the development white papers I've seen, 50 mm is around when a wheel can start taking advantage of the sailing effect at higher yaws. 21-22 mm internal width and 30-31 mm external width at the rim edge. That way you can put 25 or 28c tires on without them balooning beyond their labeled size and they will stay narrower than the rim giving the best chance to form the aforementioned ellipse. As low a spoke count as is feasible to reduce weight and improve aerodynamics. Stiffness isn't as critical in the front as it is in the back. Rear wheel: 60-70 mm deep, 24mm internal width and 34-35 mm external width. This one is way wider because the air is so messed up by the time it gets to the rear tire that width matters a lot less for aerodynamics as their biggest impact is when providing a sailing thrust effect in crosswinds. Therefore we can mount a wider tire for improved comfort, rolling resistance and puncture protection. Elliptical shape is probably still ideal but less critical as the first time air will hit the tire is at the seat tube where airflow is all kinds of messed up, so optimising the design for when the air hits it the second time could be more beneficial. Tire should still be notably narrower than the rim. Spoke count should be higher, probably 20-24 spokes. Ratchet hubs with dt swiss compatible internals. Obviously everything should be as light as possible  Edit: also no wavy rims, their only benefit is better cross wind stability by reducing the stall angle of the wheel i.e. the airflow is so messed up that it doesn't even push the rim anymore, meaning you lose the sailing effect. This is unneccessay with good eliptical profiles because they can enable the flow to have a smooth transition from one side to the other. May 07, 2024, 05:30:07 AM |
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Re: Yuanan Carbon fiber wheelsets Year end discount promotion
I think the trend towards wider rims is great. I currently ride a 70mm deep / 35mm wide external. I honestly do not see the need for a different front and rear profile, unless the cost is not a big deal and you would need a different mold anyway. My only complaint about that wheelset is weight as that much carbon makes for a heavy rim, and I wasnt sure about the rims so i was unwilling to buy nicer hubs. They are shockingly stable in crosswinds and far as I can tell very fast. The Roval Rapide has emerged as the benchmark design and for good reason. I personally, would not want a narrower front wheel as I think stability with a wider foil is very effective at helping keep the power down even in cross winds. If you have the ability to looking at managing steering moments via CFD as well as outright aero, I think that would really help. To stand out, and maybe provide a minor aero advantage, I would use a paired spoke arrangement like Rolf Prima and Corima used to do, but with aero carbon spokes. I think the carbon spokes and potentially restricting the design deeper than 50mm or 60mm would result in a stiffer rim that may overcome some of the structural challenges with paired spokes. Maybe you could also build internal structures to help spread the loads effectively and manage overall material. I really like the ideas that are coming out in terms of hubs. I would consider, but dont know the drawbacks of putting the nipples on the hub side for adjustment. I also like fully captured spokes that allow me to stop in the case of breaking 1-2 spokes. Serviceability and bearing life are really important to me. I need to be able to true the wheels and I would hope that the bearings would last at least 10,000 miles / 16,000 km of riding in all weather before needing replacement. I also dislike wavy rims. Also please make them hooked with a tubeless retention shelf. May 07, 2024, 10:04:10 AM |
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Re: No6 wheels
https://www.no6.works/products/4550?VariantsId=10036 Hadnt heard of them. I have pretty much the opposite widths on my bike, w wheels from Peter from Carbonspeed (on the forum). Wide in the front and very wide in the rear. And mine are 55-60mm deep. If i were to order again i'd get the 34mm width front and back, because that way you can run 30 or 32C and you know the rim will be (a bit) wider, which should be aero optimized. My ContiGP5000 32C on the 34mm wide at the rear measures 33.5mm, it's pretty awesome. On bad mountain roads, i motor through most things. In the front i'm running 30C, and if i put 32C on that rim, i'd get a bit of a lightbulb effect. When i ordered i didnt have the courage to put a 34mm rim in front, i thought it was too much. Mistake on my part. My current setup is by far the fastest bike i've been on, and i'm faster on the flat than everybody i ride with, very noticeably, including sworks, scotts, cannondale and so on. So ultimately my equipment choices have worked. i'm 81-85kg, so for road cycling purposes, i'm a unit. My zone 2 is ~35kmh, so aero does matter. in fact i'm on a bike where the whole "it holds its speed well" fluff makes sense. you can feel the bike is just there when going at 15kmh, but at 30kmh+, it feels fun to go vroom vroom, you dont feel like you're pushing against an invisible wall, the bike slips through and it feels super nice. Or rather me on the bike slips through, as it's obviously mostly about my position on the bike. Can't go 40kmh in Z2 sitting up like a sail. August 19, 2024, 03:47:15 AM |
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Re: Yoeleo PRO NxT SL2 wheels
Farsports has two websites: 1. Farsports.com is where you buy their Farsports branded wheels, which are a bit more expensive but a bit more premium. If you are interested in what the new lineup includes, I wrote a short article (https://www.cyclistshub.com/farsports-introduced-2025-road-wheels/) about it and how those wheels compare. I'm gonna test the C5 soon. 2. Wheelsfar.com is where you buy their "lower-end" Wheelsfar wheels. There are many more options, and some components can be customized. With XMCS, just check out their catalog and message them via WhatsApp. They will guide you there. I hope this helps. October 04, 2024, 01:24:40 AM |
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Re: VeloBuild VB-R-268 frame
The new frame VR-R-268 is a product of the present trend in pro bike racing. So here few points. #1. Aerodynamics is the major element that pro racer looks for. The pro riders know their CdA and how to decrease it. The more aero you are the faster you go for the same power. #2 CdA is the quantitative measurement of aerodynamic drag. The "A" is the frontal area of both the rider and the bike presented to the wind in the direction you travel. You can decrease the "riders part" of the A by being on the drops instead of seating up. VB has paid a lot of attention to this part. #3 Cd is the coefficient of drag. For example if you place a flat disk in a wind tunnel and make the A=1 the surface area will be 1 but the force the wind actually exert on the disk is a little higher let's say 1.15. So the CdA will be 1 x 1.15= 1.15. Now instead of flat disk, place cone with the tip forward and a front area the same A=1, but now the coefficient of drag will be far lower so the total CdA will be far lower (that is the reason why bullets for example are not flat at the front). Here VB has done a superb job in decreasing the Cd. #4 VB aerobike like the VR-R-268 is aimed at decreasing the Cd even if in some cases you may have a little weight penalty. Lower seat stays with a flat top, aero seat-post, kamm tail the downtube and a very nice combination of the seat-tube and rear wheel-tires to make the air flow smooth. The seat-post in the present bikes is more exposed comparing with years past so an aero seat-post is a must. VB has done a great job here. 5. The rider also has a "A" and "Cd". The "A" is obvious the more down the rider is the smaller the "A" but the "Cd" is not as clear, racer used to adopt the "puppy paws" position (which now is ban)etc. The point here is that the position on the bike has changed and VB has done everything possible to allow this change. The seat is more forward as much as you can without braking the UCI rules "The tip of the saddle shall be a minimum of 50 mm to the rear of a vertical plane passing through the bottom bracket spindle." This forward position allow to open the leg body angle so you do not hit your body when you pedal. VB zero-offset seat-post goes along with this trend. Also rider use short saddles to go around this rule. 6. Along with #5 the back is flat and when racers place hand on the hood but keep the forearms flat (the most aero position) it is important than the angle between arms and forearms is 90 degrees or less so the distance between between brake hood and saddle is smaller than in the past, so you want a short top tube. To accomplish this aspect, pro racers are choosing smaller bikes than before. VB has a small frame and a 9 cm stem as the smallest. VB is ok here, even it could have offered an 8cm stem. 7. Components are also part of this trend. Cranks are shorter that were in the past, for example Tadej (176 cm) is using a 165 mm crank, Filippo Ganna (193 cm) iirc use a 170 crank for the hour record, MVP (184 cm) is in 172.5. The smaller cranks offer aero advantage, and also you are working in the area where mechanically you are stronger. Of course you need gears that you can spin. VB is compatible with all the component manufactures. 6. In pro racing mixing areas with good asphalt with unpaved or gravel road are becoming very common. Having a frame that accepts different width tires is important so you do not need to have a different bike for each terrain. VB has done a great job here allowing as to use tires up to 32. Many other frame manufactures have aero bike but basically designed around the 28 mm now standard in road racing. With this VB frame you can have 2 sets of wheels like a road with 28mm tire and wider rim wheel with a 32 mm gravel tire and if you want to do some rough single track gravel you just change the wheel. 7. Aerodynamics are important in flat terrain but also during climbing when you have a head wind, or the grade is not very steep, having you body down help, you can feel it on your legs and also if you have the correct setup, you may see the CdA not increasing. Few of the pro's climb with the forearm flat on the top of the handlebar. 7. The only part the VB has not touch for aerodynamics is the flared handlebars. The UCI set also rules there and a small flare would be OK. This rules changed in Jan 2024 included the brake levers angles and it may change again. In summary VB offers a high quality frame with almost all the features that are trending in pro racing, before I got it I look around and I could not find one that I could place a check mark in each of the features I wanted with the exception of VB-R 264. I have been trying to explain why the the VB-R-268 is my choice. VB has many frames with different features and for many of us may be better. I have more than a month since I start to ride, which I do everyday, in different terrains, with a 28 tire you can do most of the gravel. Sometime next year I will get a "gravel" wheel to do single track. Chris has been great with fast replies to all my questions, so to have a good online service is also important part of the frame. I am very happy with this bike. Note: I got and extra seat-post and seat-post clamp when I placed the order for the frame, I like to have them as spare and the price was very reasonable. The seat-post seem very solid and very nicely made so most likely I will never need them. October 18, 2024, 07:20:33 PM |
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Re: Deep wheels below 1300gr without breaking the bank?
Can recommend Peter from carbonspeed. So easy to talk to. I even changed my rims after the initial purchase (thanks to Serge trend guidelines:) ) Ordered 50depth/33wide wheels with in house hub, cx ray spokes and brass nipples (no alu nipples on my wheels, ever). Hubs are ratchet and I'm 100% sure theyre not gonna cause any issues, as I run 3 of those on my mtb's. Now just time game  And yea, wheels are really cheap for what youre getting. November 03, 2024, 01:47:05 PM |
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Re: New Frame Winow Sports WR054
Hi All, So the frame is built up and really happy with how everything went. It all went smoothly. Di2 battery is stowed nicely in an internal clip in the downtube. I was nervous around seatpost slippage and headset play, but both areas have been spot on so far. A question was asked around could the seatpost be reversed to alter offset. This wouldn't be possible unfortunately. The build so far has been with 12speed Ultegra Di2. Still waiting on the new crankset. For now I have repurposed an R8000 fitted with Pas Quest 54/40 from Ali X. I have done a couple of short rides so far. One pretty spirited with some sprints thrown in to gauge stiffness. For info, I am around 5ft 7 (on a good day), 72kgs, peak power of 1250w. I must say, everywhere I want it to be stiff, it is stiff! Front end is spot on with no flex, as you would expect by the beefy forks and headtube. Bottom bracket, I can't detect any deflection under load. The rear triangle feels great also. All very different to my SL7 clone. That is by no means a noodle, but it does feel like you are fighting with the bike when in a max sprint. The WR054, when sprinting, everything feels solid and planted if that makes sense? I know this all sounds very positive, but at the minute I'm over the moon with it. It is a heavier bike.but that really isn't an issue for me as I race flat crits. It's currently sat at just over 8kgs. However that is with a heavy 1650g wheelset and a heavy alloy railed saddle. There is room to budge around 3-500 grams there alone if that is a concern. I will certainly be looking at CRW, Farsports, Magene etc. over the off season. Also considering 1x for races. Will keep you updated over the coming months, on how I am getting on with the bike. Kind Regards, Mikey. November 12, 2024, 07:31:17 AM |
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