[quote author=jfcb link=topic=5633.msg73449#msg73449 date=1737747981 They delivered exactely what I wanted.

Can you give me an idea of what your set up here is? Less interested in wheels, but am interested in components and how it was getting it built up.
Were there any problems with internal routing etc etc. Or did you make it someone else's problem and get the shop to build it?

• Internal cable routing (especially with SRAM wireless shifting) is easy with the frame, no fiddling. I did use foam hose protection to avoid rattling inside the frame.
• The brake mounts were faced, no issues
• with Sram 1X, installing a groupset goes very fast

• T47 BB install, as al my BB's I buy them on Alixpress and replace the bearings with NTN/SKF once the original ones wear down. Afterwards they last very long.
• Crankset: now (different from the picture), I'm running a SRAM RED DUB crank with sigey PM, 50T Stone oval chainring. For training periods and climbing races, I will go back to 46T. I also mounted a ZTTO chain catcher. I've ridden a period without chainring cachter which went smooth, but rather don't take the risk in races.
• Drivetrain: force XPLR derailleur and (Goldix?) 10-44T cassette. They are very long lasting cassettes and work with Shimano 12sp chains.
• Cockpit: originally I ran an UNO stem with carbon handlebar (ali, similar shape as 3T ergonova) using the ritchey headset. This is a super light yet sturdy combination. As mentioned earlier, I replaced it this winter with a roval cockpit which I could buy from a friend for which it was too short.
• Furthermore: seatpost (ali), carbon bottle cages (ali, arundel style), farsports 40mm gravel wheels (1300gr), some helicopter tape on the downtube to protect it from the gravel impacts. I also replaced the bolts on the downtube with Nylon bolts

So far, I've had a pretty bad run of luck with the EDS-TX. Learnings so far:
- There's an adjustment screw on the underside of the derailleur that I found difficult to find - a case of RTFM that had me trying to get in and out of the adjustment mode multiple times before I could get my calibration in.
- Once the calibration was dialled in, it worked pretty smoothly - but I found that re-entering the adjustment mode would reset and throw out any calibration I had done. Solution: Take screenshots of the adjustments dialled in to the app.
- Accuracy seemed to be way worse shifting down the cog than shifting up it.
- The FD fine adjustment bolt is soft as butter and stripped using a Parktools ball-headed allen key that was barely used. There's no way to adjust the FD in the app without Wheeltop unlocking the function.