I've got an SL large coming. Curious to see how the weight compares to albar's frame.

sorry but i'm a bit ignorant about this frame. Is it not possible to mount a normal 2-position remote control shock absorber on the handlebar? Thanks

Yes, this is not the problem. The problem is finding a remote shock in the correct size. Rockshox only offers the right size to OEMs and the Fox shocks normally operate opposite of the way RS shocks twist so you couldn't use the same controller for both front and rear shocks if you have a Sid and a Fox. JimmyD's solution allows you mix the Sid and Fox with a single remote.

I did experience quite a bit of rattling with no dampener.  Since everything was installed already I decided to try the pool noodle hack. I cut a section that was about 80% of the downtube length and then cut that in to thirds lengthwise for an appropriate thickness.  To install I just had to drop the fork and push/bend the foam into the frame.  It has worked flawlessly, even added some to my gravel frame as well.  I don't have a scale handy but can't imagine the weight was significant, and all for $5 with enough left for at least 4 other bikes.

Thanks. I'll try the pool noodle hack.

Shipping to the US was over $40 for the options posted. Ali option was cheap but heavier.

Ask for Wing at sales1@carbonda.com

Thanks

Carbonda website down?

Been down for me since last night.

Hi Folks,
inspired by colt_seaver's building thread in a german forum, i spent the last days reading all 72 pages of this thread (who needs netflix? )
I like the FM936 more and more... already have a spreadsheet set up to calculate price and weight of a bike based on this frame.

I stumbled across a few comments about poor climbing performance.
I am a fast tourer and marathon rider and my current "do it all" bike is a not-so-light carbon hardtail (IP-256SL if sb knows). I really like steep uphill challenges and eating altitude meters.
Problem is, i am a total coward going downhill: The smallest feel of sliding or the rear wheel getting light leads to a complete mental blockade. To overcome that, i think about using a more down-country or even trailbike-oriented bike. As i have a very long torso for my size, most common bikes on the market would be too short for me, so the FM936 should be just right for me.
Thing is, i don't really want to sacrifice uphill performance. So hands down, how much worse is the FM936's uphill performance compared to a hardtail?
Do you think the FM936 will meet my needs, i.e. giving me a fast touring resp. marathon bike with much more downhill confidence?

Is it worth the effort (money/weight) to have a rear shock remote lockout? I like standing up in the pedals for spontaneous give-it-all sprints. The only full suspension i rode the last years was a Giant Reign 2, wich was an absolute pain in the ass in this discipline (yes, different bike category).

Also, does sb have an idea how much weight is saved by opting for SL in size XL? Can i expect 200 g?
colt_seavers had 2182 g including rear axle for a standard XL.
I try to figure out where to save the most weight for the least money. Sub 11 kg with dropper post would be nice, but budget is limited.

A couple of answers for you in no particular order.
My current full squish (Evil Following MB) climbs better than my hard tail on 90% of the terrain I ride. Anything that isn't smooth, and the FS does better. Lots of rocky, rooty and rutted technical climbs where the FS does much better because it is so much better at maintaining tread contact. Set the suspension up correctly and I doubt you'd miss your HT on anything but the smoothest climbs.

 I have never used the lockout, even on the street or smooth fire roads. However, my XC racing buddies use remote lockouts and both swear by them.

Carbonda shows 150 g difference for the SL in size M. I doubt you'll get 200 on an XL and even if you did, you could probably save more weight spending that money elsewhere.

This bike will shock you with how much better it feels going down than the typical XC HT. The geometry gives it so much stability. It's not an enduro, but drop the seat and point it down and have fun.

Finally, you won't hit 11 kg with a dropper unless you have lots of really lite parts already, friends who will sell you really lite parts on the cheap or you spend a bunch of money. Limited budget and lite weight don't really go together. Budget Chiner lite weight wheels, tires and cassette alone will cost you about $1400, add in fork cost and you're already at $3k with the frame. Of course, if you wanted an 11 kg factory built bike with similar geometry, it would cost you much more, Transition Spur, XX1 size M, 11.2 kg, $9k. https://www.transitionbikes.com/Bikes_Spur.cfm

I'm sure all the factories are slammed with OEM business. With all the hot new bikes out of stock, you know there are big orders for more.

Don't remember which bike executive it was, but he said they had no idea how long the surge would last, but they intended to ride it to the end. Said they were struggling to meet demand bcause of supply constraints across the board.

No reason to spend the resources on the AM831 when you're fully booked with OEM production.