I had the same issue.
So I took a flat file and shaved a few mm on each post mount pods.

However I would never do this again.
It was a real pain to align them back.

Instead I would go to my LBS, either to borrow a Park tool DT-4 or to do it for me.
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/post-mount-disc-brake-facing-with-dt-4

Peter, Do you plan to have a Di2/disc brake version in the coming future ?

In some apps, you have the option to decide the frequency at which it checks the GPS position.
ViewRanger had it at a minute or two by default. I've set it to 30 sec now.
And it gives comparable results to my friends' Garmin 800 or 1000

I put my phone on the stem.
In a simple AliExpress splash/shock-proof bag( an iPhone 6 )

Getting the 20% battery warning after about 4:30h( wifi, bluetooth, and 3G and all useless apps turned off).
Sometimes I use a Bluetooth heart rate monitor to check how I fare on my weekly rides(2-3h) too.
Adding a 3500mAh Verbatim power pack that for 65g/25€, can more than double the time when needed.

The app I use for nav is ViewRanger, it is free, and allows an offline load of the maps.
It gets better at each release.

Then Strava+HRM if I need just to record my ride. It is extremely battery efficient.

Recently I was lost and used Google maps in bike mode, ending at 80% battery after an hour(this was not the case before).

When a better(design, gps, glonass,...) rugged Android comes to market.
I'll probably switch and get rid of the bag, as the touch through the plastic membrane is not optimal(my only complaint of this setup).

I think mobiles and software are good enough today for nav and ride recording, than having an additional device(I take my phone with me in case of emergency anyway).

I had a hard time removing the Eggbeater plastic caps too.
And replaced them with these Ti ones:
http://m.ebay.com/itm/251325275052?_mwBanner=1

My experience with BB ceramic bearings so far:

They seem to be harder to spin initially. And need some break in.
I didn't notice any real difference with the steel, and stainless steel bearings I tried before.
But we'll see if they resist better the wet/mud starting in October.

After dismantling and inspecting better the derailleur, the story gets worse.
The inner cage is made of aluminium, and was easy to put back straight.
But the outer cage is made of composite, and there is a small crack just in the middle. So the derailleur is toast.

Now, what to replace it with?
I checked my preferred shop at the moment http://www.r2-bike.com

• An XX1, comes in two colors now, for 230€
• An X1, with only 15g more, and full aluminium instead of a composite mix for 157€
• Or may be it is time for something else... an XTR, but there is no grip shift for 160€

I read this post on mtbr and some others.
To finally jump on the more adventurous last option( less bulky/exposed form and even lighter )

Here is an update.
I did a 90Km ride this weekend(my longest so far!).

With a difficult choice of either putting a new back tire 12h before the ride, hoping it would hold air.
Or use the current beaten one, with a tube in my bag in case of.

The old tire is still on the bike!
Here is a picture(Thunder Burt), the scar size is about 5mm.
I'm very impressed how well the tubeless-sealant combo works.

Yes. It works surprisingly well for its size and price.

It will not make a tubeless pop on the track.
But to inflate an emergency tube or put some more air, it works just fine.