bdub, they focus on what matters.
Understanding you well and help you decide for the right frame and items.
Once ordered and paid, it is done.

Dealing with our occidental anxiety of ordering abroad is not that important in the end.
May be it is cultural or they are simply overloaded.

To be honest, I was anxious too, especially as I ordered from a rather unknown provider.
But with Iplay you are in good hands.
So relax, insure you have all parts ready and compatible, you will get the frame.

My rear caliper was too high on the disc. About 1.5mm off.
This caused an odd pad wear.
Some others have reported the same problem.

One day I felt brave(or stupid) enough to take a file and shave some mm from the posts.
I didn't go well initially, making the caliper tilt quite badly, like in your case.

But then after some trials and errors, and sweat, I got it back parallel to the disc.

All this to say that I think it is still possible to get your rear brake right.
And if you find an LBS with the DT-4.2 Parktool, it is even better.
The tilted screw can be managed with a conic washer on top, the face is what matters.

I understand how frustrating it can be if iplay doesn't honor their warranty, and make you pay more than you planned.
But if at some point there is no hope for an easy and free return or compensation.
You may consider this as a plan B.

Try the spreadsheet, works like a charm: http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=51071

wow... this spreadsheet is spot on with my bike and size.
In addition, it gives road bike sizes, and some other bike related data too.

I removed the whole plastic pipe and cable guide.
And for now a duct tape plugs the hole.

But someone used black silicone to plug all unused holes.
Once the duct tape will become loose, I'll see if I put another one, or use silicone.

I don't have a steel rule or similar. I'll try to find one. Thanks.

My chain looks flabby when on the smaller sprocket.
Not sure it was like this before. You can see the picture.

From the second sprocket and up, the chain get straight.

I don't have a tool to check the chain wear.
But used the 12" trick, and have 305.5mm instead of the planned 304.8mm.

Should I remove one link? Or tighten something on the derailleur?

I'm about to put an Absolute Black spiderless chainring too, to replace my 28T.

Marcin, from Absolute Black strongly advised me to try his oval ring.
But you need a 104 BCD (Bolt Circle Diameter).
And it has a better chainline (2-3mm) compared to the spiderless chainring.

Unfortunately, I have an incompatible short spindle BB30 crank, so no oval ring for me.

I haven't check precisely, but it seems some spiderless chainrings have an offset for the chainline.