The frame doesn't look to be waterproof.
I plugged all holes I saw, but I still don't know where it comes from.

After each wet ride, some water and mud accumulate at the bottom.
Just above the hatch, if the cable was there as designed, it would end in that soup.

So I'm quite happy to have the cable sitting over the BB in the hose.
In addition the hose is not that long and seems to be lubricated.
Time will tell, but from now on, the shifting is very smooth.

They talk about balancing the wheel (around 4:12).

Would it make sense to balance the wheel of a bike?
When the bike is on the stand, and pedalling.
It start to shake front/back. The wheel is clearly not balanced.

It could be about the valve too, as he says in the video.
But I didn't try with the tyre out.

Just a note about the 256 frame.
I took the PF30 bottom bracket version of that frame.

I live in Belgium, which I guess is on par with Nottingham for the wet weather.
And this summer is wet, it is as muddy as october right now.

The 256 frame allows some water/mud to enter the frame. I didn't spot yet the source.
But it results in a very quick contamination of the BB bearings.
I serviced the bearings once, to no avail.

I contacted the seller of my XX1, and will return the BB to them/SRAM.
May be the bearings were not properly sealed, or of poor quality.
But I'm afraid it is the whole SRAM PF30 BB that is poorly designed for wet weather.

In the meantime, I found bbinfinite.com which seems to have the perfect design for this problem.
And ordered the last one they had in stock. I'm waiting for it.

All this to say, if you choose a 256 frame (which is a great frame, by the way).
Take a BSA BB, as carbon_dude suggests.

And consider investing into a compatriot Hope bottom bracket, they say "BB that stands up to British weather":
http://www.hopetech.com/product/threaded/

For your information, the tube is a single plastic piece with the cable rails.
The two rails, you can see when you open the bottom hatch.

Since I don't have a front derailleur and run a full hose for the rear shifter, I removed it.
And plugged the hole.

Hi outriding9800,

Did you mean 12.5lbs?
Could you explain more, what was that learning curve for carbon forks?
Thanks for sharing the pictures.

I used the VENZO Torque wrench, $56 on cyclingdealusa.com(by eBay)
It comes with most hex and torx keys I needed.
It stops at 24Nm so you don't have the 40Nm for the crank arm.

And no carbon paste.
Gently tightening the carbon parts(bar, stem, seatpost), and nothing moved so far.

Good luck for your build!

I've separated the post. We'll see where this go.

Why have you posted the link to the analytic sites ?-)
I clicked on the toolkit button, and discovered a treasure trove of information to parse.
My productivity this morning was again knocked off by bike related readings!

After a very gratifying MTB build.
I got a kind of virus, and cannot think riding a road bike without building it.

My first doubt is about shifters.
Electronic or not?

Here's the first answer I got:

Personally I think Nintendo gears are the best thing since sliced toast! The price, less so and until someone starts paying me in something other than cake to ride bikes I can't justify Ultegra/dura-ace prices so Di2 105 needs to hurry on up.

Sram Red is iirc still the lightest groupset if that's your thing (I stopped being such a weight-weenie after about 30 seconds of playing with http://www.analyticcycling.com/ForcesLessWeight_Page.html)
Sram also have a wireless electronic groupo on the way but not till next year some time and I'm not expecting it to be cheap.