The ZEE groupset looks great.
Don't you need a chain guide, to avoid dropping the chain?

The XX1 has a special big small teeth sequence, that sticks to the chain(they say).
It is notable, when you try to remove the chain from the front ring.
The chain seems to stick to it. And the ZEE seem to have traditional flat rings.

When ordering the wheels at light-bicycle, they asked me if I wanted something on it.
Here is a flashy example from their site: http://www.light-bicycle.com/photowall/carbon-650B-rim-beadless-35mm-wide-tubeless-compatible-333.html#.U_UQvICSzR0
Everything looks to be possible.

I little disappointed in my XX1 setup today.

I was just wondering how long my cassette would last.

I looked yesterday and saw some teeths were already showing some wear, just after 200km, on the big cog.
But it was a false alert, they are designed like this, quite irregular.

Did you get your replacement through your LBS too or direct?
Did they ask you some more questions about the rear derailleur before going for a replacement?
If I remember well, you had already your chain replaced, isn't it?

If the pads touch the rotor only sometimes.
You may have the rotor that is not perfectly flat.
It occurs, even on new ones.

If you are in this case. Rotate the wheel slowly.
Remember the spoke, in front of the brake pads, where the noise starts.
Rotate until the noise stops, and look at the spoke too.

Take the rotor at the middle between the two spokes, with your hand.
And try to push(very gently) the rotor inside.
If it gets better, but still hearing a noise, push a bit harder.

If it get worse, pull the rotor outside instead.
After a few trials, you should get the rotor flat enough to avoid any noise.

I had this on my build with Hope's rotors.

While I still had the BB out.
I left a metalic cable entering the hole at the right of the frame.
Taped. And waiting in the other end in the seat tube.
Passing on top of the BB.

I'd like to put the Reverb stealth.
What do you have against hydraulic?

The cable is strong enough to pull the hydraulic hose through the frame, and make the V turn over the BB, I guess.
Hopefully, without having to dismantle the BB.

I'll probably do this in the fall.
Please let us know what you do in the end.

Thanks.  So here is the injector: http://www.notubes.com/2oz-Tire-Sealant-Injector-P348.aspx

I remember seing this and thought it was for Schrader valves only.
But it is just the core remover tool they provide that is for Schrader.

I have already a seringue, a tube, and a presta valve adapter.
I will try to assemble them together.
But need to find a presta remover tool.

Setting up the XX1 derailleur, is probably easier to do than a dual-derailleur setup.
But it took me some time to get it right.

Hopefully this post will help you make your shift crisp on the XX1 derailleur quickly.

It is mainly about having the right cable tension.  If there are glitches when shifting.
If the cable is to tight, the chain will not move easily to a smaller sprocket.
If the cable is too loose, the chain will not leave the small sprocket, to the next.

While you can do some first alignments without the chain.
I found it easier to align and obviously test everything, with the chain on.


1. Align the derailleur to the small sprocket
Leave the derailleur in its default position.
The chain should be on the small sprocket(the harder to pedal one).



Adjust the Small Sprocket Stop screw(the one near the cable pulley).
And have the derailleur sprocket centered inside the chain.
May be unscrew it a little more, to move the derailleur slightly outward, to ease the shift to the small sprocket.

Turning clockwise any of the stop screw, will send the derailleur towards the center of the cassette.


2. Prepare to put the cable on


Rotate the shifter nut(where the hose arrives) clockwise, until it can't turn anymore.
And insure you have the shifter set to the small sprocket position.

Insure the hose and cable are placed correctly.
The hose fully inside both ends. In the shifter nut and the derailleur.

Pass the cable through the derailleur pulley, up to the screw.
Put some tension in the cable. But not to much.
Tighten the screw to attach the cable to the derailleur.


3. Adjust the cable tension
Start to shift. To move the chain to the second sprocket.
Unless you got the cable tension right. Chances it won't move.
Shift back.

Now, go to the shifter, and rotate the small nut.

You should hear a click, when you turn it.
Turn it, for instance 3 clicks at a time.

Then try to shift again. And check if it moves to the next sprocket.
If not, shift back, rotate again the nut(it took me about 15 nut clicks, if I remember well).
Shift again.
 
When it leaves the first sprocket.
You should be able to shift up all the range.

Fine tune the tension with the nut, so the chain move on all 11 sprockets perfectly.
Try to be rigorous with the count(3, 6, 9, etc.), so you know what tension you are at all time.
Make some tests to improve, and come back to the best position you had before.

Beware when arriving at the biggest sprocket. Do not go too far.
And send the chain in the spokes(I did it, see the next step to prevent this).

Insure the derailleur top sprocket is always at the specs vertical distance(12-16mm) with the cassette, when shifting.
To do so, adjust the screw that moves the derailleur up/down from the axle(see the first picture).


4. Align the derailleur to the big sprocket
When the chain is on the bigger sprocket.
Adjust the Large Sprocket Stop screw.
And have the derailleur sprocket centered inside the chain.


5. May be restart...
If the initial cable tension was too tight, you won't be able to unscrew more the shifter nut.
Or if you had to turn the nut too much, and want to get it better.

Insure the shifter and the nut are put back to their initial position.

Unscrew the cable from the derailleur.
If it is harder to move to smaller sprockets, loose a little the cable.
If it is hard to go to the larger sprockets, tighten a little the cable.

Restart at step 3.

I had it to tense initially. Unfortunately, I did cut the cable too early.
Now I have only 2cm cable left after the screw.
So, do not cut your cable too early.


I'm not sure if this is specific to the Gripshifter, and it won't work with the classical shifter.
Please post any easier method, or let me know if the post can be improved.