I didn't have issues with any of the carbon fiber parts that LightCarbon sent me. They were in excellent shape. However, the flanges of the Gineyea BB that I received had sharp edges where they contact the frame. @Valhalla, if you're using that BB (or any other for that matter), you'd obviously want to file any sharp edges off before screwing it down.

Quote from: moewe on October 15, 2026, 09:56:23 AM

You re saying these hairs will rube through the tape I placed on the inner side walls?

No, you'll have to remove the tape tor the hairs to reach the frame. Why did you put the tape there?

Quote from: szorek on October 11, 2026, 12:04:31 PM
So should the area where the seatpost clamp sits against the frame be clean amd dry or should I use carbon paste?

I applied carbon assembly paste between the clamp and the frame without any problems.

Quote from: moewe on October 11, 2026, 01:10:12 PM
hey! back tire is about 40,5 to 41mm and the front about 46mm on rims with 21mm inner width.

so still totally fine actually, the knobs and gummy "hairs" make it look worse. but as you can see in the pictures, there is still "some" space in the back (drive side)

You might find that the hairs will very effectively buff the frame and fork and shine them up really well!

The serial number sticker under my bottom bracket of my LCR018-D has fallen off. Does anyone know if the serial number is on the frame somewhere besides that sticker? I didn't see one during assembly but I'm hoping that I just missed it.

I know there's a number on the fork steerer tube that seems more permanently affixed under some kind of coating but I believe it different from the frame number.

Thankfully, my sticker fell off while the bike was in the house so I still have it, although the numbers are faded and some can no longer be made out.

Quote from: J89eu on September 15, 2026, 02:43:20 AM
Just got the pics in of my painted frame, so imagine it will ship soon, I'm actually quite impressed how it turned out. I've only ridden very boring looking bikes so I'm a little apprehensive now about it being more of a looker and having people talk to me as I'm an amateur, overweight rider as well as a bit of an introvert! So we will see...

That looks great! How much did you have to pay for the laser silver decal? LC wanted USD300 when I ordered my frame, which was too much for me.

Quote from: rosteven on September 13, 2026, 02:40:53 PM
Let me preference my question with "This LCR-18D is my first build, so if my questions sound kind of dumb that's why".  My LCR-018D build is finally complete, but I notice that when I try and place the storage bag in the compartment the fit is very tight. So here is my question: I used ZTTO Foam Sleeve around the hydraulic brake hose for the rear brake, which I ran from the head tube to the seat down tube.  The sleeve has an external diameter of 11.5 mm, when viewing the inside of storage bag area the sleeve seems to take up quite a bit of room. For the folks who have the LCR-018D with the storage compartment, are you experiencing the same issue? Should I have tried finding smaller sleeving, or did I make the run to long?

I installed the same orange foam sleeve and have the same issue. I can get the bag to slide in with gentle nudging, but the orange sleeve certainly reduces the amount of stuff that you can squeeze into the bag. However, you can also store other things above the bag in the down tube, like a tire tube.

Quote from: rosteven on September 10, 2026, 05:31:22 AM
The item that I found was located around the base of the fork (race may not have been the correct term to use). I thought that I looked at the lower headset bearing before reinstalling everything, and I don't remember seeing anything unusual. Attached is a photo of what the item looks like, on closer inspection it does look like it is the seal as one side is a rubber type material.  So here is the dilemma, the build is complete with the everything working fine so do I tear everything apart, reattach the seal and hope that the tight steering does not come back, or do I run it until the bearings go bad and just replace the upper/lower with better quality stainless steel bearings.  Note that seal edges look torn, so maybe the smart way ahead is to just order the replacement bearings and be done with it...

Tough call. It's a lot of work to get to that bearing. I'd personally be tempted to wait until it goes bad. If you don't ride it in the rain, it might never go bad. On the other hand, if you do ride it in the rain, it might go bad immediately!

Quote from: rosteven on September 09, 2026, 06:23:51 AM
I removed the post because I figured out what was causing the issue; there was a thin metal micro washer on the fork race that I had not noticed. I removed the front caliper brake hose at the caliper, removed the fork, removed the washer, re-assembled everything, and it is now fine...

I'm confused. Micro washer at the fork race? Where did it come from? How did it get there without you noticing? Is it the seal from the bottom headset bearing?

Quote from: rosteven on September 08, 2026, 05:00:08 PM
I'm looking for a sanity check before I attempt a second cut; I measured three times accounting for the lip on the compression plug and the underside of the topcap, I cut once using a ZTTO Carbon Fiber Tube Cutting Saw Guide Tool and carbon bladed hack saw.  I'm now trying to figure out 1) how the cut came out crooked, and 2) how to make sure that the second attempt does not end up the same way.


Update: I mounted the piece that from the fork with the cut end a little less than flush with the edge of the Zitto tool, and the cut looks pretty straight.  So why does the fork end (Compression Plug) sit high on one end and high on the other end, I've checked that the bearings are install curved edge in towards each other, and that the other parts are installed correctly.

It's not you. The top of the stem is angled, not flat. The cap that screws on is also angled, not flat, so everything evens out in the end. Since you used a cutting guide, you likely cut the steerer tube straight.

Quote from: STEGPB on September 04, 2026, 03:59:02 AM
Ah, lucky you. Could you maybe measure the diameter for me?

Top cap of the plug is 10.5 mm and narrowest part of the plug is 7 mm. I have one in my unused mechanical cable hole. But it may be too large for the smaller electronic cable holes for the front and rear mechs. I did not try them on those holes as I run Shimano di2 cables.

P.S. 9 Sept 26 I cleaned the bike today and measured the plug I that used for the larger of the two front derailleur holes on the seat tube. The cap on that one is 9mm in diameter and stalk is 7mm.

My frame came with plugs and grommets. These are my leftovers after assembly. I got 3 of the small grommets, 2 of which are on the bike, and 3 of the plugs, 1 of which is on the bike.

I received my frame on June 30, 2026 (ordered April 9).

If you're in the US, the dry cleaner may give you one if you ask nicely. Or you can look in their dumpster.

Quote from: Aerodurance on August 30, 2026, 03:11:55 PM
Unfortunately not.
My bike now 400km and I re-clamped the seat post ~5-6-7 times.
Its installed with Dynamic Carbon paste.
Its torques with a Wera Torque wrench to 6, then 8 and the last two times with 10Nm.
Its clamped on the wannabe grippy paint (which is now stripped of, because of slipping).
It is really annoying. I will email Carol tomorrow asking for options: another clamp or seatpost or both or just hammering 20Nm on it, i dont know.

I cut 60mm from my stem, but it still creaks. But i think its the standard LCR Bottom bracket thats pretty cheap.
Will change it to Praxis Works one.
Or what would you guys say is a good, fair priced T47 BB for Shimano gear?

I've had good luck with Silca carbon assembly paste but would not suggest it to you. With your luck, even epoxy might not stop your seat post from slipping.

I've not, though I was worried I'd have to, before I got my saddle height dialed in. If you look at the seat tube, it narrows in the middle. Looking inside the seat tube, there's a shelf in the middle that prevents the seat post from going down further. So, you'll likely have to cut your seat post if you want to insert it beyond the part with the rough surface. I think a generous amount of carbon paste will prevent slipping.

Very nice! The color looks good. How much does it weigh?