The item that I found was located around the base of the fork (race may not have been the correct term to use). I thought that I looked at the lower headset bearing before reinstalling everything, and I don't remember seeing anything unusual. Attached is a photo of what the item looks like, on closer inspection it does look like it is the seal as one side is a rubber type material.  So here is the dilemma, the build is complete with the everything working fine so do I tear everything apart, reattach the seal and hope that the tight steering does not come back, or do I run it until the bearings go bad and just replace the upper/lower with better quality stainless steel bearings.  Note that seal edges look torn, so maybe the smart way ahead is to just order the replacement bearings and be done with it...

Tough call. It's a lot of work to get to that bearing. I'd personally be tempted to wait until it goes bad. If you don't ride it in the rain, it might never go bad. On the other hand, if you do ride it in the rain, it might go bad immediately!

I’m looking for a sanity check before I attempt a second cut; I measured three times accounting for the lip on the compression plug and the underside of the topcap, I cut once using a ZTTO Carbon Fiber Tube Cutting Saw Guide Tool and carbon bladed hack saw.  I’m now trying to figure out 1) how the cut came out crooked, and 2) how to make sure that the second attempt does not end up the same way.


Update: I mounted the piece that from the fork with the cut end a little less than flush with the edge of the Zitto tool, and the cut looks pretty straight.  So why does the fork end (Compression Plug) sit high on one end and high on the other end, I've checked that the bearings are install curved edge in towards each other, and that the other parts are installed correctly.

It's not you. The top of the stem is angled, not flat. The cap that screws on is also angled, not flat, so everything evens out in the end. Since you used a cutting guide, you likely cut the steerer tube straight.

My frame came with plugs and grommets. These are my leftovers after assembly. I got 3 of the small grommets, 2 of which are on the bike, and 3 of the plugs, 1 of which is on the bike.

I received my frame on June 30, 2026 (ordered April 9).

Unfortunately not.
My bike now 400km and I re-clamped the seat post ~5-6-7 times.
Its installed with Dynamic Carbon paste.
Its torques with a Wera Torque wrench to 6, then 8 and the last two times with 10Nm.
Its clamped on the wannabe grippy paint (which is now stripped of, because of slipping).
It is really annoying. I will email Carol tomorrow asking for options: another clamp or seatpost or both or just hammering 20Nm on it, i dont know.

I cut 60mm from my stem, but it still creaks. But i think its the standard LCR Bottom bracket thats pretty cheap.
Will change it to Praxis Works one.
Or what would you guys say is a good, fair priced T47 BB for Shimano gear?

I've had good luck with Silca carbon assembly paste but would not suggest it to you. With your luck, even epoxy might not stop your seat post from slipping.

Very nice! The color looks good. How much does it weigh?

exactly what i am saying. and this has been discussed before. See posts "Reply #535 & 536"
attached a drawing with measurements.

unless there are 2 versions of this thing floating around. @mddobbs, please report back on this if you would.

@mr. mingc: maybe (!) if you would take a picture where u measure the side closest to the cameras, wouldnt be off a couple millimeters and not use a 50 cent plastic vernier caliper -> i wouldn't dare correct your post.
btw. caliper shows 51,65mm and you have a considerable gap to the left.

I'll be glad to take donations to buy a genuine Mitutoyo. Perhaps I'll start a GoFundMe.

My Gineyea is installed and bike fully assembled. I posted a pic of the finished bike earlier in this thread. No more close up dimensional pictures! I do have an unused tool for a 50mm T-47.

It does not surprise me in the least that there is more than one version of the Gineyea. It is both a scourge and boon of Chinese manufacturing that specs can change overnight without notice.

You didn't say which bottom bracket you're getting from LC, but if it's the steel bearing Gineyea T-47 for 24mm axles, Wendy misinformed you as she did me. That BB requires a 52mm tool (with 16 notches). A tool for 50mm diameter BBs will not fit. Please see the attached, admittedly bad, picture. It delayed my build by a week and a half while I ordered and waited for the right sized tool.

I recommend the Heppe "retention" tool to keep the tool socket firm again the BB flange when you're turning the socket.
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPWDOjN