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Messages - zett

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1
Component Deals & Selection / Re: Geoid PM500 power meter
« on: August 07, 2026, 02:23:02 AM »
How is clearance with 86.5 mm T47 bottom bracket shells with this PM? Considering it for a cheap powermeter upgrade for my gravel bike (which would also get rid of my shitty GXP crankset).

2
Tarmac SL9 is probably the most boring upgrade I've seen in a while. Some of the design decisions are pretty questionable as well. Aesthetically it's a clear downgrade IMO. I have zero FOMO.

3
The SP-Cycle bar is pretty stupid. It makes little sense to have a gravel-style bar with a lot of flare for TT or triathlon. The style of aggressive aerobar extensions doesn't make sense for long gravel rides or the like either. I have no idea what they are going for with this thing.

4
Component Deals & Selection / Re: chinese carbon saddles
« on: June 23, 2026, 05:26:54 PM »
How would you compare the comfort between 3d and EVA?

3D seems slightly more comfortable I guess, difference is pretty small though.

5
Component Deals & Selection / Re: chinese carbon saddles
« on: June 15, 2026, 06:34:05 AM »
Regarding longevity, I have a Ryet Ultimate with 3D printed padding in use since end of 2024. It has about 8000 km of mileage. It's holding up well so far, it also survived a minor crash. I have the EVA padded Ultimate on another bike since last year with 2000 km or so of mileage. It's holding up well, too. So personally I can't complain!

6
The frame has a BB drop of 80 mm! That seems pretty extreme. I guess 50+ mm tires are basically required to avoid pedal strikes. :)

7
Well i'm trynna be faster than the guy in front of and behind me!!!!!!!!!!

Its not hyperbole, a 42 max chain ring would legitamately rule this bike out for those who wanted to race on a 1x system. I'm not talking about a group ride on the weekend.


We're still talking gravel though. Speeds are significantly lower than road, except for descents, and guess what, you hardly need to pedal for those. I agree that it would be nice to have some reserves for larger chainrings, but that this frame is "dead" for race gravel use is still quite the hyperbole.

8
Come on, stop the hyperbole. How fast are you gonna ride? I currently have 40t chainring with 11-42 cassette on my main gravel bike (so definitely not optimized for speed) and I can comfortably ride at speeds over 40 kph with it. With a 42t chainring and XDR cassette with 10t cog I would be able to easily get over 50 kph with pretty normal cadence.

9
"Gurgling" sounds from the brakes can be caused by misalignment between pads and the rotor. Usually the pads are positioning too far inboard on the rotor. Tolerances vary and depending on rotor design, brake caliper, brake caliper adapter and brake pad you may or may not have this issue. This causes the pad to periodically grace the arms of the rotor which then causes the uneven sound. You can also check your rotors, if you have wear below the main braking surface on the arms, it's likely your problem. Try to add a shim/washer under the brake adapter.

As usual standardization and tolerances suck in the bike industry, so this has been a recurring issue ever since disc brakes were introduced.

Edit: I don't want to blame a certain manufacturer, but this is often an issue with SRAM brakes, so I guess it's pretty clear who likely has off-nominal tolerances...

10
As usual the bike industry is overshooting. Wide tires are good (to a certain point), but of course there is no free lunch. I don't expect 35 mm tires to become common on road bikes. The sweet spot is somewhere between 28 and 32 mm, depending on riding style on road conditions.

I've recently switched from 28 to 32 mm tires on an endurance bike. The new tires run wide (WAM ~34 mm) and I definitely feel how this effects handling and acceleration. Also, while it is more comfortable, it is not like this is a groundbreaking change compared to 28 mm. And yes, I've experimented with tire pressure and made sure it's not too high.

I have also switched from 28 mm to 30 mm on a race geo bike. The difference is minimal, not really worth it.

11
I've now logged around 2500 km on my bike and it's going well. No issues whatsoever. I even had two small crashes, except for two superficial scratches nothing happened.

One thing is for sure, the paint job is subpar. It's already quite scratched up in some places. I guess this is one reason why they're so cheap. Painting requires a lot of manual labor if you want a good and sturdy finish.

12
So the root cause seems to be that the reservoir in the lever is too small and basically runs out of fluid if the pistons are pushed out enough. That's REALLY bad and completely unrelated to rotor type, weight of the rider or anything else. I'm pretty sure that an engineer figured that out in development, but a manager in turn ignored or downplayed the problem. After all, design iterations late in development are expensive...

13
Ultegra is definitely more premium in looks and lever feel. It also has better brakes. The front derailleur is better (faster), too. It's somewhat lighter as well. I would definitely go for Ultegra if the price difference is so small and you can afford it.

Edit: oh, and Ultegra has another feature that's really cool: the extra buttons on top of the hoods. You can configure them in various ways, you can even control your head unit with them if you like.

14
Yeah, I installed the blanking plate already. In addition to that, there's a port for a mechanical FD cable. I plugged it with a silicon grommet now, I guess it's fine.

15
Just got my frame. Looks great, the UD glossy finish I ordered actually looks sick IMHO! All looks good so far. For the record: frame weighs around 1110 g in size S without thru axle and UDH (but with all the bolts), fork 500 g without axle. Lighter than advertised, probably due to the minimal finish.

I wonder how you people dealt with the front derailleur cable hole on 1x setups? And similarly, what about the extra hole for Di2 cable at the back?

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