Shimano LG700-50T - what are the chances of getting fakes / factory rejects with these?

They're about 10-25% cheaper on Ali than local and Ali prices vary quite a bit too...

Understandably cassettes would be difficult to clone, but who knows?

Just installed my new wheelset - looking good except the rear external brake pad is rubbing on the rotor.

Standard 142x12 6-bolt config, original hub: Novatec D982SB-SL, new hub: Goldix R310SL.

I can shift the brake housing to adjust, but just wondering why does it end up a bit out? Endcap face to 6-bolt mating surface shouldn't change on a given spacing standard. The front installed spot on.

As a side note: the axle on Goldix is very skinny in the wall thickness compared to Novatec, any potential issues there?

I recommend you take a look at a TIRE & RIM Compatibility chart like this one:
https://www.wtb.com/pages/tire-rim-fit-chart?srsltid=AfmBOoppqV1Gz-5a3k277G79YNgV6fJ56N49qUYF79JZLAqyjHnPry01

Concerning asymmetric rims,   You would never need to use one for a front wheel.    Rim offsets are used for rear wheels.

An asymmetric rim has a larger impact on wheel build strength for narrower hubs like 130 and 135.  As you migrate to 142, 148 (Boost) and 157 (super Boost), these wider hubs often have wider spaced flanges, and closer-to-equal length left-side to right-side spokes,  that help to build a stronger wheel, due to more even spoke tensions between the left and right side of the wheel.

My argument for asymmetric - less spoke tension difference between the sides... think the symmetric difference is typically 50%, while asymmetric is about 20%?

I don't think it'd hurt to go asymmetric at the front either - the brake flange also takes up a bit of space. My Turbine MTB wheels are both asymmetric.

Thanks @Tijoe,

According to ETRTO, for 45mm tyres 25iw rims are ideal and 27iw rims are "possible".

Currently 45mm Gravel Kings SS measure 48mm wide on the stock 25iw Alu rims. Even if they go a little wider there's still enough clearance frame / fork clearance, my concern - tyres forming "bell" shape: https://bikerumor.com/tech-story-match-bicycle-tire-width-rim-width-best-results/

Also, considering the abovementioned rims, I'm sceptical of the system weight ratings of 120kg (Standard) & 110kg (Fly) - I don't know if the manufacturer infact tested these, or it's some form of an estimate / guess. Other manufactures state 90kg limit for the Fly versions.

I don't think the slightly squared profile will be an issue. From my experience the contact patch will be slightly wider and the sidewalls will be a bit stiffer. There's no real downside for road and more advantageous for loose terrain.

I have Easedon road wheels with regular spokes that ride great. Though I think there was some issues with their asymmetric gravel rims. There was a post regarding the problem on here. I'd do a search if you want to read up on it.

Yes - I did read that thread, Easedon assured me that there won't be any issues.

Paying through PayPal, plus Ali customer protection and 3 year warranty from the seller - hopefully there won't be any problems.

For tubeless gravel I'd go hookless! I much prefer the squared tire profile of a hookless rim. Handling-wise it just feels stiffer on cornering and I can push harder on the turns. You'll never run 45c tires beyond 40psi. Mounting a gravel tire onto a hookless rim is even harder than a hooked rim. Unless you're doing 30 foot plus hard drops, that tire will never come off.

Even with wide internal width rim, a hooked rim will still have a bulbous tire profile. Road is a different matter, but for wide profile gravel tires I think hookless is great.

Although technically it is a gravel setup (Cube NuRoad Pro 2025) I use it for cardio / training - so a lot of tarmac and some very light gravel / general riding. Not sure if a square profile is good for paved roads?

Stock: Alexrims GRX25P 28H Novatec D981/2SB-SL with GK SS 45mm (measuring 48). That wheelset is at least 1,800g, could be up to 2kg (which wouldn't surprise me - stock wheelset on my Chisel 2022 were about that).

Looking at ~1,400g Ali offerings, this caught my eye: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005011686393018.html Going with 35mm depth asymmetric option, the specs seem to be ok for the money.

As per title - this is not a debate about burping tyres or tyres flying off.

Usage: gravel 45mm tyres, exclusively tubeless.

Would you go with hooked or hookless rims when buying from Ali vendors? This doesn’t apply to “high end” Ali offerings but rather “mid range” in Ali terms @ ~$400USD.

AFAIK, hooked carbon rims are more complex to manufacture - different moulding, fibre layering etc.
I’m hoping to get a product that is less likely to have defects - this points towards the hookless option in my opinion.

What do you think? Have you had issues with hookless Chinese rims relating to the bead seat design?

Thanks for your input, I also cam across the Goldix R240SL - based wheelset: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005010707515049.html


Think this may be a better alternative to the no-name / in-house hubs that are typically on offer?

Although the wrong-length spoke thread issue concerns me https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4723.45.html
Of course Easedon (on Ali) assured me that I can trust their brand.