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Messages - Super_davo

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1
AFAIK nobody makes this because the whole point of SRAMs wide range gearing was to start at a 10, and the smallest you can fit on an HG freehub is an 11.

2
The actual actuation speed and power of the RD shift motor are functionally identical. Absolutely no reason to change a RD7150 for a RD8150

I can say as the owner of bikes with R8100, R7100 and indeed R9200 that the front mechs on R7100 are not the same (R8100 and R9200 essentially are). R7100 is the older design, same as R9100 or R8000 and larger, heavier, slower.
As to whether you notice any of this on the road I would have my doubts - I can't - but you certainly can on the mech stand side by side.
FWIW the only improvement Ultegra brings over 105 that I really miss is the bonus buttons on the shifters.

3
It's the drive side crank arm. It comes out very straight from the BB, with no bend and the arm is very square. Net effect is that you need to adjust your front mech so it only shifts as far as 0.5 mm from the arm, which iny set up, is not enough to shift up crisply. I have remedied this by spacing the chainrings inboard using a mm GXP spacer..

Works fine, but not ideal, and I needed to do this on both my bikes using them (both 11 speed Shimano). Not a problem if using a single ring of course, and you may really like the chunky styling (which I did until it hit my mech!).

Up close the Senicx just looks a higher quality product all round, in pretty much every detail. The forging, the finishing, and functionally. The chainrings are similar but even they look a little better on the Senicx. It only costs marginally more and IMO money well spent.

Note the Senicx is the same crank arm set up as you get in the GEOID PM500 (I have one of these too) and in that thread people are saying the cranks are better then the OG Magene ones.

4
I have them on two of my bikes. Changed my cranks to 165 last year and these were a cheap way of doing that. They are OK. Not light, not outrageously heavy. Only real problems are that they are very chunky so difficult to get the front mech adjusted properly without the mech hitting the crank. Can fix it with a gxp spacer (couple of pounds).
But I would recommend a Senicx PR3 instead - I also have one of those on a different bike and it is just a little bit better in every way (lighter, miles more front mech clearance).

5
There is another thread on this site that discusses the PP5 (on the Road Bikes section) to which the great GP Lama himself contributes. Have a read..

There is also a recent Tom Bowers cycling review on YouTube as well.

His experience was the same as mine. There are limitations, but it is perfectly possible to work within those. The GP  Lama residual torque issue would be a massive ball ache if you were doing sprint training or microbursts, but for a casual rider or even a time trialler that doesn't have spikes in power, it should be good enough. For me due to a L/R balance that doesn't stay consistent- it is infinitely superior to any left side only device.

And for $69, as long as you don't also need a new crankset to fit, well worth trying to make up your own mind.

6
Component Deals & Selection / Re: Carbon seatpost clamps
« on: May 26, 2026, 06:42:21 AM »
I have used the Elita One carbon seat clamp and I would not recommend it.

It states on it that you should tighten to a max 6nm which I duly did and it was way too little to stop my seat post from moving. I attempted to slowly increased the torque past that (to a still not particularly high 7nm) and it snapped. So clearly a proper weight weenie item right at the limits, use at your own risk etc.

Which would be fine but for the fact it was only 3grams lighter than the stock alloy clamp it replaced.

IMO the gains are way too small to be worth going weight weenie here.

7
Component Deals & Selection / Re: Chinese cycling clothes
« on: April 29, 2026, 08:08:22 AM »
Hey guys! Has anyone tried these shoe covers yet? https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005010255556243.html?
Any suggestions would be appreciated!

I have and I like them.

They are definitely an aero shoe cover for time trialling rather than something to keep your feet warm and dry on a winter ride but for that use they are excellent, especially for the price. They come up pretty high (so would be non UCI) but that helps because they sit well above the widest part of my calf and don't slip down at all. The rubber shoe cover section looks as robust as these sort of things ever are, so should get a season or twos worth of use out of them (as long as you are careful putting on and do zero walking in them etc).

I rate them as better than the RRSkit version which I also have.

8
Component Deals & Selection / Re: Geoid PM500 power meter
« on: April 08, 2026, 02:14:53 PM »
I have 165s and they definitely do not have a comically large amount of metal sticking out past the hole (which would be the case based on your theory bearing in mind they are also sold as 175s)).

9
Component Deals & Selection / Re: chinese carbon saddles
« on: March 30, 2026, 01:43:58 AM »
I have that Elita One. Crazy light but it does not inspire me with confidence; way too flexy, you can bend it with one hand - and not flexy in a Fizik wingflex way, flexy in the middle sags and puts stress on the rails kind of way.
 
I used on the turbo for a bit but I haven't had the nerve to run it on the road, I doubt it would survive the first pothole I hit (and I say that as a sub 70kg rider).

10
Component Deals & Selection / Re: Aero bottles & cages?
« on: March 11, 2026, 07:31:42 AM »
If you mean modern Trek Madone style, I have the Panda Podium x Ahyka set for my Winspace and they are fantastic. Really clean design, integrate well with the frame, well made and the black with gloss logos looks really premium. Because I liked them so much I got a second set for another bike - but this time just the Ahyka bottles from AliExpress. And even though ostensibly they are the same, they just look and feel cheaper. I'd have no hesitation to recommend the Panda Podium versions, and not sure if the AliEx versions were fakes, but the cost difference was small enough if I wanted a second set I would just go back to Panda Podium.

If you want a more traditional Elite Chrono style TT bottle, I've got an original Elite, and an AliEx clone that works using magnets, and I prefer the AliEx version. The cage on the Elite never worked that well - the magnet is a bit bulkier on the AliEx bottle but an easier process to slot back in the cage. They don't hold very much, and really only integrate well with the down tube meaning they look a bit off when using two, so I think they are more suitable for TTs where you are more interested in using the bottle as a fairing rather than drinking very much out of it.

11
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Thinkrider PP5 power meter
« on: February 18, 2026, 01:41:03 AM »
Fantastic work as ever GP Lama.

I can see the clear, repeatable issue - but I also think for the bike I intend to put it on I am almost never going to expose it to that issue (the chances of me doing 1000W sprints on my winter bike are practically zero...). In that case - it looks pretty accurate - and certainly way more accurate than single sided when I know my L/R balance is not consistent.

12
Component Deals & Selection / Re: Cheap lightweight bibs for indoor
« on: February 16, 2026, 02:03:42 PM »
Whilst there is a wealth of information here https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3121.0.html I think the base YKYW bibs are hard to beat for the price.

Whilst I know designed for use outside I don't think I would personally because they are quite open mesh, which makes them very light and airy for the turbo. And you can often get for £15 / 20 euros / dollars (though tariffs may have changed that last one). I could only see on 'Bundle for less' ATM so can't paste an easy link.

13
Component Deals & Selection / Re: chinese carbon saddles
« on: February 16, 2026, 08:01:11 AM »
some has experience with this saddle? look great and 135mm! Should i go with EVA or 3d Print! Whats normaly the difference! I have a Ryet aircode 3d. Its great but a little bit too wide....

The ultimate is a far bit slimmer than the Aircode, particularly on the nose.

If you are going for the carbon base it has absolutely no in built flex (unlike the plastic models) so if you want some cushioning go for 3d printing. If you go for EVA it will be a very firm ride.

14
Component Deals & Selection / Re: custom shimano groupset
« on: February 16, 2026, 07:26:30 AM »
I now have three bikes with Shimano 12 speed, one each with full 105, Ultegra and Dura Ace, so feel well qualified to anwer this!

Functionally 105 is absolutely fine, there is very little difference between it and the others there are just these things that IMO is well worth going higher up the range:
- The shifters don't have the bonus buttons at the top, which once you have and have set up to control your computer, you will miss massively. You can set up Front Shift Next and get a free button back on 105 to control using tap, double tap, long press - but its nowhere near as good
- The rear mech on 105 has bushings in the jockey wheels. Which feels ludicrously cheap in a groupset that costs about £900 / 1000 dollars / euros. Very quick and cheap fix in paying for Ultegra jockey wheels, but you shouldn't need to do that

Then...
- As mentioned, the front mech for 105 is a big bulbous thing, whereas the Ultegra and Dura Ace look much smaller and neater, if that bothers you. They also work faster, but you won't notice that unless bench testing and specifically looking for it
- 105 cassettes are absolutely fine and work just as well as all the others, as long as you don't want 11-30. And if you wanted 11-36, you need 105. And all work with all, whatever Shimano says

And IMO these things Shimano have fallen behind aftermarket parts here:
- Cranksets. Shimano chainrings are lovely things and the front shifting is super slick, but it should not be possible to save c200g off a top of the range Dura Ace crankset with an aftermarket unit. I changed my Ultegra for a Leese when I moved to 165 cranks, keeping the original rings, which is a good compromise
- Rotors. I know some people swear by Ice Tech but I can't get on with anything above 105 level, the CL800/900s just seem to go out of true far too quickly for my liking

So if it were me... I would buy a 105 groupset, change the shifters for Ultegra, swap the jockey rings out of the 105 mech for Ultegra. And if at some point you want to save weight you can buy a carbon crankset and monoblock Spedao / Goldix cassette, and you'll end up with something lighter than Ultegra anyway.



15
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Thinkrider PP5 power meter
« on: February 10, 2026, 02:04:19 PM »
I've ordered one today, because with codes it came to £71, and it will fit onto a set of Leese carbon cranks I already own, and it will look better than the alloy spider they came with.

I'm fine if it turns out a bit crap - I already have Assiomas that I know are accurate - but I can to see a point in adding to my winter bike / gravel bike that wouldn't otherwise have a PM.
 
If I'm trying to gauge exactly how hard I need to push for a time trial, accuracy is paramount. If I'm trying to measure TSS on a winter club run so I know how hard I should or shouldn't push on the next days turbo session, being in the right ball park is OK.

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