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Messages - Super_davo

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1
Anyone notice the insane markup on some of the items?

The Goldix cassette that I bought last week for $23 is now 40. The Ultralight version of the same has jumped to $150 from 95.
Uno 7050 stem has gone from $17 to 31.
Easedon wheels shipping is now $230 (I paid $10) to the USA.
Aero derailleur pulley systems are $85 up from $40.
MagicShine replica by Offbondage is now $32, up from $13.
Elita One handlebar is $122 up from $55 just a few days ago.

Aliexpress wasn't kidding when they flew the banner "Last chance" last week.

I have noticed they have started including the tax in the upfront price, which probably explains some of the rises. Especially if you live in a country that just imposed some pretty ridiculous ones.

2
I use Stone chainrings and they work as good as my dura Ace chsinrings. Can't get better then that imo

I got the Goldix aero chainrings in 54/40 and I'm pretty pleased with mine. Front shifting is fine on my Ultegra 12 speed Di2; needed to make a lot of adjustments vs the stock rings but very easy to do in the app. I haven't noticed flex particularly - I'm not a mega power sprinter but I have used them on a couple of hilly TTs which required me to front shift under load.
They are pretty heavy (especially with spider) so looking elsewhere for a 52/36 set up for use in mountains on my Leese carbon crankset, but they will do me fine for my flatlands set up.

3
You can just switch out a Shimano Hollowtech crankset for one of the 24mm steel spindle cranksets.

I have done so on 3 of my bikes when I switched to 165mm cranks. I have tried two different models - the Goldix CNC road crankset and the Senicx PR3.
Of those, I think the Senicx PR3 is the better choice - its a bit lighter, its got more "shaped" cranks and it was much easier to set up the front mech without it hitting the crank arm. Neither come in 160 though so if that's what you want, then its either the Cruzbike or spend megabucks and get a carbon set with Ti spindle etc.

I just used the standard rings that came with the crankset, and did not need any washers at all. Front shifting is fine, and its lighter & looks better than a spider with the Shimano rings. You might need to tweak the limit screws and tension a little, but it wasn't a hard job to do.

On my best bike I switched the bottom bracket to DUB and fitted a Leese carbon crankset. IMO its not such a good system as 24mm Shimano, as it relies on washers for preload which you can't get anywhere near as precise. It does come in a fair bit lighter though, to the tune of about 250 grams over the Senicx and Goldix.

4
This Trustfire light is pretty small, light and cheap.  Its also surprisingly bright.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806529223121.html

Could you get away with a tiny coin size drone LED stuck to the front like a hillclimber?  They'll run a really long time in blinking mode. (i've gotten 2-3 hours on night rides out of them in blink mode and over half an hour running constant)
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804421457863.html

That Trustfire looks exactly the sort of thing I was after - thanks very much.  Like the rechargeble blinkers too - they look a great plan B and at that price will probably order as well.

5
Component Deals & Selection / Small under Garmin mount bike light
« on: April 05, 2025, 01:42:42 AM »
Under CTT rules in the UK, when you ride time trials it is mandatory to run front and rear lights. Rear isn't a problem - it will always be my Garmin radar. But for front it would be best to have the smallest possible light, tucked out of the wind, ideally via a Go pro style mount under my Garmin. Performance isn't really a concern - there is no need to use it to see by - and as long as it lasts a couple of hours on flash it would be fine. I've got a Xoss XL800, but that is much chunkier than ideal (and also been quite disappointing in terms of performance - not that I care about that for this use!). There are literally thousands of bike lights in AliExpress but I can't seem to find much that fits the brief - anything that mounts using Go Pro style mounts tends to be a big "to see with" light.  Anyone got any suggestions?

6
I was wondering if anyone has had any luck with an OSPW for Shimano 105 7100 rear mechs. Cheers

I have this from Temai Factory Store.

https://a.aliexpress.com/_EHzs8bi

It's OK. Blatant Ceramic Speed knock off, not anywhere near as stiff as the original cage, but still shifts fine. As with all of these OSPWs, push out the bearings and replace with sealed ones unless it is just for use on the turbo.

7
The width of the cogs between 11 and 12 speed is very slightly different, and if you've making custom ratios the ramping will likely be out. On the 12 speed cassettes I have at least one of the cogs is dished slightly and has a thinner spacer than the rest.
You might change some cogs and get it to work - e.g if you had a worn / damaged 14 and changed it for an 11 speed cassette 14 (where the next cog was a 13 /15 in both cases) - but if you're attempting to make custom ratios and changing significant numbers of cogs you either won't get it them all on the freehub and the lockring to engage or the shifting will be atrocious or both. .

8
Component Deals & Selection / Re: Riro 24mm axle carbon crankset
« on: March 12, 2025, 03:16:57 PM »
You could the Leese that come with the 4bolt adapter as standard. More choice of length than the Raceworks, and the cost will come in similar by the time you've added in the adaptor. I also prefer the graphics on the Leese.

9
I'm very much liking the looks of the new Riro cranks, as I want to move to 165mm cranks on my Ultegra 8100 equipped race bike. But I want to use the original rings. I'm struggling to find someone that sells just the Shimano interface to 4 bolt 110 BCD spider. Anyone have any ideas? Would I just be better to get Lexon where they come out of the box like that?

10
Maintenance, Mechanics, & Tools / Re: Which immersive wax are you using?
« on: February 13, 2025, 12:30:12 AM »
I was initially put off by the price of commercial blends but after a lot of reading on Zero Friction Cycling and the likes settled on Silca. And now I have I can see the cost is insignificant - yes the bag cost £35ish but only needed half to fill my Crockpot and what's in there has waxed a lot of chains (at least 20 waxings across all my bikes). Whilst there is now only just enough to cover a chain I still have the other half of the bag to top up from.
Major appeal for Silca for me is the matching drip wax - which is great for top ups when you are away from home or just don't have time.
IMO the savings from making your own blend aren't worth it given the fact that once you have the bag and filled a Crockpot with it you likely won't need to spend anything further for years.

11
I don't like the alu / steel mix cassettes but with only the largest cog as aluminium... it could be OK. On the 12 speed cassettes the lowest gear is generally so low it doesn't get that much use, and you'll always be shifting from or to a steel cog so when it does wear, it shouldn't completely kill the shifting.

However what annoys me is that the headline price is just for 11-30, the 11-36 I want for my Marmotte set up is a full £20 more which pushes it beyond the price of all steel monoblocks (and TBH I value the all steel reliability / longevity over the tiny drop in grams). I will likely bite if it drops a bit in price.





12
I've got two sets of Ent-Gravels. First set was so good I immediately ordered a second for a different bike.

I don't think there are any major compromises with them that a recreational cyclist really need care about. They are c300g heavier than my massively more expensive carbon spoke Hunt wheels on my best bike and they don't have super rapid engagement ratchet hub. But they do have a 25mm internal width 32.5 outer which is great for moden wide tyres. The normal ENTs (non gravel) have the same hubs, spokes etc but are 21mm wide / 28 outer. That's fine if you want to run up to 28s but if you want to run wider, go for the Gravel version (you do not have to, and I don't, actually use them for Gravel!)

Worth knowing is you have to pay for DPD delivery and when you do that takes care of any taxes. If you don't include they wll contact you and ask you to add it on. There are some other models which use the same rims but with different hubs e.g. the SLR have a ratchet hub, SLT have a slightly lighter pawl hub. If you just want a set of carbon wheels for general riding the ENTs are a great choice.

13
Maintenance, Mechanics, & Tools / Re: Steerer tube cut
« on: January 23, 2025, 01:13:12 AM »
Not hugely - it will still work and it will be hidden from view. But it would bother me - I usually get a sheet sander out after I've cut my steerer tube and even it all out which would fix that really quickly (and if you don't own one, they are a really useful DIY tool and in the UK cost from about £10, so not much). Make sure you do it outside and wear a mask as you would when cutting it.

14
I am running this exact set up on my 105 Di2 including the OSPW. Works fine but the OSPW is shorter than the original so I needed to remove two links from the chain else the tension wasn't enough in the smaller cogs on the inner ring (note that isn't an issue with the 11-30 specifically as the affected cogs are the same on 11-34 or even 36). Other (minor) annoyance that can't be fixed is that the e-tube app only allows 11-34 or 11-36 to be selected so when you're looking at stats, setting up sync shift etc. you need to be aware the real gear isn't what it says it is

15
I've got 2 sets of the Elite Ent Gravel wheels and they are ridiculously good for the money. They are around the 1600g mark for 38mm so not super light, but bang up to date with 25mm internal width and 32.5mm external. Look very smart with subtle black decals. I haven't given either of my sets proper abuse to comment on reliability but certainly seem very well made, and many on here have had them or earlier versions for a while and speak highly of them.

TPU tubes are pretty cheap - I love my RideNow TPUs but there are many other brands now and not much between them. IMO not worth paying for the ultra light, as the bog standard are already about a third of the weight of butyl and most importantly pack way smaller. But whatever you can get a decent deal on. Buy 4 as one of the main advantages are as spares, and you wouldn't want to find out the foibles of them on the side of the road fixing a puncture.

If I wanted a genuine Shimano groupset I wouldn't be going to AliX; there are a lot of fakes and IMO the discounts don't make it compelling over what I can get in the UK at places like Merlin anyway. But I would substitute out Shimano parts with brands you can get on AliX for things like chainsets, chains, rotors, cassettes if I wanted to build a nice light bike for a budget; or even going the whole hog and getting LTwoo or Sensah.

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