Any update on this?

Quote from: mixlax on August 16, 2018, 03:12:37 AM
Maybe a lesson for others would be to just wait on their frame to avoid ending up in the mess you are in?

Am I reading what am I reading? Somebody pinch me, help..

@Calvino @bababasti

Even though you are both from Austria, this is an English forum, please keep it that way.. If you make public post use English, otherwise imagine how it would look like if everyone acted like that.

If you need to, use personal messages for your private conversations in your native tongue

Quote from: Calvino on May 21, 2018, 04:11:23 PM
But weight, braking and sideflex aside i absolutely loved them.

This I don't understand much. What is left to love on wheelset that is heavy, brakes poorly and sideflexes? How can you love something so flawed?

Very nicely written, bike looks amazing, and thank you for your impressions on a hot frame right now. This is what interests me more:

Quote from: sissypants on May 01, 2018, 02:26:59 PM
A friend of mine also bought a Spark RC Pro bike, and I've got to say the bikes would feel identical except that my bike is 3 pounds lighter.

Would you be able to do a more scientific comparison? Like a camera fixed on both bikes recording how each frame flexes under breaking and under power? That would be totally bonkers, as there are not many people with both frames at hand. The break mount placement differs and stiffness might too. There are videos of such comparisons like this one:



The power delivery was not effected, but one frame did wobble more under full power, which effected feel. The T800/T1000 should be very stiff, so it would be very interesting how both frames compare.

Also because the seatstays are thinner one side gets flexed from the breaking forces and the other not. This may be an issue even on hardtails. Some aluminum frames suffer from this and I rarely see a good carbon frame with brake mount in seatstay.

Wirh 160mm rear this is small, but with 180mm the effect is much more.

Quote from: charlesrg on April 27, 2018, 12:32:33 PM
Wondering if anyone has a 258 in hands and can check if there is flex or smooth operation in the whole travel.

It has to flex, because there is no pivot close or in the real axle.

The CS-MB01 http://www.xmcarbonspeed.com/Productinfo.asp?f=1392 can fit up to 40T. It is made for large chainrings.

I am thinking about getting a full-sus 2017 dengfu M06 for the summer season. Will have to do a bit more research to settle my mind, but since this thread is here I will check it later for some good inspiration to steal:) Even now some of you are pointing to frames I didn't know about.

Looks similar to Suntour Beast, which did not gain much success:

.

What chainring did you manage to fit? Is that 38T?

Before you start I suggest to try the gearbox on some test bike first if you haven't already. The weight is not a big issue, it is in good place, but the shifting feels a bit weird - it is not that ergonomic and doesn't feel as good as shimano or sram. This might not appeal to some.

Quote from: carbonazza on December 05, 2016, 05:21:28 AM
The engagement angle is much much bigger on the DT240, that is a disappointment.
When free wheeling then pedalling again, there is a big gap before it takes on.
With Hope hubs it is immediate.

Do you have the 36T star ratchet or the 18T? I was thinking of upgrading my hubs to 36T DT240, but if that is no good I'll think about the 54T DT240S hub. Here are the engagement angles: 20° for the 18t, 10° for the 36t, 6.6° for the 54T. I wonder if they differ in durability, there are some posts online ditching the 54T as not that durable and other people claiming the opposite and pointing out the failure might be because of thin lube.

Quote from: carbonazza on October 13, 2016, 04:16:18 AM
My girlfriend wants an e-bike

Hi carbonazza, don't invest into LiPo technology and definitely not into Hobbykings own brand batteries. They are cheap with good stats on paper, but that's about it.

Why not Lipo: they are not durable, have short life span (low amount of charging cycles - at best 500) and have to be charged very carefully not to over voltage them with very expensive charger - else their life span drops rapidly.

What to get as powersource - LiFePo: best power to weight ratio (but not as good capacity to weight ratio as LiPo), very good durability - can be overcharged, under depleted, 1000 charging cycles with almost no capacity loss during cell's life, can be charged with cheap chinese chargers so that makes up for their higher price compared to LiPo.

Why not no-brand batteries (Hobbyking, etc): Batteries are made with different grades and are sorted as they leave the factory. The grade is usually determined by the internal resistance of the cell. Low grade cells loose capacity faster, reach less charging cycles, can get puffy easier and they get hotter drawing current from them. These cells usually end up in cheap LiPo packs.

I have very good experience with A123 LiFePo cells. They have also multiple grades, get the A grade as directly from the factory as you can. The longer the battery sits in warehouse the worst it is (some batteries can be old as 2 years then sold cheaper). Make sure all cells in the battery pack are the same age (so the whole pack ages the same and all cells have same properties). Have the cells professionally be welded together (not soldered but welded - some HobbyKing packs are soldered). This way you can have a pack much cheaper than buying it already made.

Now about the voltages and power:

E-bikes are powered by brushless DC motors. The torque of the motor is determined by the current flowing through, the max rpm is kv * Volts. Kv is a constant specific to each motor. So voltage  influences the max reachable speed.

If your pack is connected in series then raising the voltage will not raise the current the pack is able to give.

Each motor has a limit how much current it can handle - else it will get burned. Adding additional cooling to the motor does increase the maximum torque it is capable of (granted the batteries can supply the current needed).

Looks like the Cyclone 3000 uses this motor controller: http://www.ebikes.ca/c-phaserunner.html. It is able to handle 90V max and 40A max current with a 96A peak. These controllers have programmable limits and they have to be paired to the motor with PC (each motor requires different parameters to run smoothly). Maybe there are lower current limits programmed in not to overload the Cyclone 3000 motor.

It is also worth noting that supplying too much current for higher torque can damage the transmission even if the motor can handle it. The transmission has plastic wheels inside: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1054349#p1054349.

Increasing the voltage will increase the max speed and the power, but not the torque. The max power happens at half the max rpm: http://motors.vex.com/introduction/.

You come to us that you ride an enduro trail on rigid single-speed with a problem that you already broke your fork. You were asking for it. Be glad you are alive.

Quote from: stout_to_carbon on October 05, 2016, 10:52:51 AM
I don't want a full suspension bike, nor to do I think I need one.

If you don't want to change your equipment, you need to change the trail or change the pace and ride the trail slowly and carefully not to damage your equipment that is not fit for the trail. That is no fun, isn't it.

If you do want to have fun on such trail and also ride safely and with ease of mind then you need a full-sus bike that is fit for the job.

There is no other way. Don't be stupid and don't risk your health. If all your friends ride full-sus on that trail they are doing it right and you are doing it wrong.

The least you can do is to get a suspension fork.

Riding that trail on a rigid single-speed is like eating a soup with a fork - it's the wrong tool. It's even worst, because a fork will not kill you..or will it?(pun intended)