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Messages - momento

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1
Hi, I'm also replying to your PM, and thank you in advance.
In the first ad, the wheels mentioned have carbon spokes, and they don't work for me. Mine have steel pillar spokes, and they're also discounted because they have a narrow rim, which probably won't appeal to anyone.
Then it says shipping is free, but be careful, because it says you'll have to pay customs fees when you pick up the package, which is an unknown amount.
In the second ad, however, it specifies that shipping is paid, and indeed the price is high, net of discount codes that can be used later.


I posted some listings that I was looking at myself. I didn’t check whether any of them have metal spokes. The fact that the ad for items shipped from China says you might have to pay duties is normal (because of the new European rules), but if you select the seller’s shipping method, DPD, taxes and duties are already included in the price. You don’t pay anything else.

2


I'm not complaining, and I don't need to check anything. From experience I'm sure that with a tire at 4 bar, a 90 kg cyclist, considering the bad road conditions, manhole covers etc., has a very high probability of bottoming out the rim on the road. It wasn't a performance or efficiency discussion, just about preserving the wheelset — and by running a bit more pressure the tire absorbs impacts better. Then, if the Silca calculator guys pay for any damage to the rim, I'll run the pressure they recommend.


3
I don't know what country you're from
italia

4
Basically, even today, Tom told me that I'm out of warranty and need to buy a rear wheel as well.
I acted impulsively and quickly bought just the front, but I was wrong, because if I'd bought the set right away, I'd only pay shipping once ($100).
I suggested returning the front and then buying a front and rear set from them, but I'm afraid the return shipping costs will also be paid by the buyer.
They might be able to help me out, but if they don't, they're really bad people. This is already the third set I've bought from them, plus other accessories.
Anyway, trying Ali, they say the warehouse where I bought the goods, which was in France, has been closed and now they have one in Poland, and in any case, they still charge the same shipping cost of $100 or more.
The store in Poland has been closed; there are France and China. For wheel sets shipped from European stores there is NO shipping cost. For wheel sets shipped from China there is a shipping cost (seller method shipping) of about 100 USD. At the moment there is a 60 USD bonus if the total spend exceeds 475 USD.

I read that you were running tires at 4 bar and you weigh 90 kg – that’s a very low pressure. When you hit sharp-edged potholes, it’s very easy for the rim to bottom out and crack. I weigh 75 kg and inflate to 5.5 bar.


5
Tom Xiang just replied and said that after a year the warranty is no longer valid and that I also need to buy a new rear wheel. Do you think it's possible to return the front wheel even if I purchased it directly from the website? Is there a return procedure?

With “WEBSITE” do you mean the CSC Wheels website? Out of ALIEXPRESS?
Anyway, it’s difficult to get a warranty:

A lot of time has passed.
It would be hard to prove that the product is defective, because it cracked after an impact.

If I can give you some advice: try to reach an agreement with the seller to get the best possible price for buying the rear one.
They had offered me to ship only the rim and let me handle the mounting myself.

6


I had a similar experience with the 50×32 model with 5.5 mm carbon spokes and 28 mm tyres. I hit a manhole cover and it cracked. I opened a claim because they were only 3 months old, and after a lot of effort I won the dispute and got a full refund. I then bought a new set from them — the 45×32 with 3.3 spokes. Just to be safe, I inflate them to 5.5 bar.


7
Sorry, but I also need to comment this post...
We will all NEVER know what exact performance you can get out of SL8 and X68. It can simply be due to personal oppinion / feeling (which is not relevant) OR because we do not know X68 numbers OR we are simply shit riders that can't even use full potential of bikes.

I would also like to hear your arguments comparing X68 to SL8 as day and night. In what ? how do you back this comparisson up with some non-personal facts?
If we blindfold you, and put you on X68 with S-works stickers...are you sure you would reckognize which bike is it? =)

So, there are many of us that can absolutelly agree that X68 frame (700 USD) and SL8 (4-5K€) is more than comparable with ride feel.

I've used the original SL6, SL7, and SL8 for 5 years, and since November I've been riding the X68 on the road, but mainly on rollers.
The difference is night and day.
Even just hitting the two frames with a coin.

You'll notice it on the road at the first bump.

On high-speed descents.

If you try to brake the front wheel from a standstill and push back and forth, you'll see a pronounced flex in the X68.

On rollers, if you sprint, you'll see a pronounced flex in the bottom bracket area.

So the frame LOOKS LIKE a TARMAC SL8... it's not.

Some people say: my friend races with it and it goes fast... OK, I believe it, with a Tarmac it would go even better.

8
Yep, I have been seeing that also.  I wonder how close they will be to the real thing, IMHO that is what made the TT-X68 such a pretty good buy (how close it was to a real Tarmac SL8).

The quality and functionality of a frame is not so much its shape as the materials used and the workmanship, and there's a difference of day and night between the SL8 and the X68. If many consider (as I've read in this forum) these two frames remotely comparable, it's only because they use the bike for amateur purposes (like me).

9
I'm interested in this frame. The main concern is that the front end is fixed and doesn't allow for adjustments: you often can't even choose the stem length. If you accidentally fall and need to change the handlebars, you'll have to replace the entire assembly, including the fork, which will undoubtedly be a huge expense.

10
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / first ad sl9 copy
« on: June 15, 2026, 11:38:34 PM »
Maybe I'm a little too advanced
 :o :o :o

12
I tried to contact them on Instagram

13
It's a original specialized spare part. The product code is in the screenshot.

14
The headset cap that came with the frame is poorly made and deformed. I bought the original one for 12 euros and it solved the problem.

15
**“I’ve noticed it as well. I’m riding a size 52 frame with 50 mm deep wheels with carbon spokes, and I also feel some flex when entering corners above 35 km/h, especially if I keep pedaling.
Before, with 45 mm deep wheels, I felt it more. Now, with 50 mm wheels and very stiff carbon spokes, I feel it much less.

I find the handlebar very stiff — I’ve tested it during sprints both on the road and on the trainer. My feeling is that this excessive compliance is coming from the fork and the rear triangle.






Hello everyone,
I’ve been reading your posts since August, and today I finally decided to write for the first time. I went ahead and bought the bike frame from Tan Tan because I was really curious to see how good such an affordable frame could be and whether it was actually worth it or not. Now i can share my feedback with you guys.
As of today, I’ve already done about 1,200 km with the bike, and I can say that I’m very happy with it. My previous bike was a Specialized SL7 Pro, and honestly, I like the TT-X68 much more — it feels faster and lighter than my old SL7.
The only thing that has me a little concerned is cornering. I’ve seen some users complain about how it handles in curves, and I’ve noticed the same. I’m not a great descender, but it’s true that I find it a bit unstable — as if the steering were softer?? I don’t know if it’s because I was used to the stiffness of the Roval Rapide handlebar on the SL7 or if it’s due to the fork, but that’s the only thing that doesn’t fully convince me! ( i have the newer version of the fork, the heavy one).
Maybe it’s not just the handlebar but the whole change of bike setup, since now I’m also riding with a wider rim at lower pressure (4,6 bar front ), and maybe everything adds up. Anyway, I’m thinking about changing the handlebar for a stiffer one without spending too much money. Does anyone have any recommendations? Thanks!
Here’s my current setup:

Frame : TT-X68 camaleon white 56
Wheels:  Ryet 50 F/R  (1430gr not the lightest ones)  with TPU RideNow tubes 24gr each 
Groupset : Sram Force   ( SRAM Force AXS powermeter + cassete force 10-33)
Handlebar: Tantan
Seat : Ryet 3d carbon  from Aliexpress
Pedals:  Bucklos carbon- titanium (220gr) from Aliexpress

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