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Messages - Sdfrt

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1
Has anyone noticed any issues with the flex of this frame? I can bend the chainstays without much effort, causing the pads to touch the disc. Overall, the frame seems pretty flexible, probably the most flexible I've ever owned. I hope it doesn't affect the speed too much. This is probably not surprising given the weight and price of this frame. Perhaps it would have been better to order the new lightweight Long Teng frame; it has more massive chainstays and greater clearance for wider tires.

2
I can't entirely tell from the picture, but it looks like the FD has more space to be closer to the chainring. I usually have about a 2mm gap. A larger gap between the FD and chainring could be the cause of your outer chain drop.
The gap was about 3mm but I lowered it a bit more, maybe that will help. I also adjusted the B-gap and I will have to shorten the chain. I will keep you updated, thanks for the help.

3
Wow! That is fast! a 20km Time trial on this bike? 43 average without aerobars. Nice! Goes to show how fast this bike is too.

I can only imagine that the derailleur isnt adjusted in the correct way, There is no way 'frame flex' on that small distance is able to throw the chain off.
Yes, TT on this bike, without aerobars. Too bad I don't have a power meter, I really wanted to see the numbers. I rode at almost the same average speed last year on a time trial bike. The race had 2 laps of 10 km. I hope that the chain drop is not related to the flexible frame.

4
Recently installed easeadon 50 mm wheels with galfer road wave cl discs, I am happy that after the Shimano discs I did not have to adjust anything. The weight of the bike with pedals and a computer mount was 7.170 kg. I rode the TT 20 km on it with an average speed of 43.2 km / h. I am happy with how light the bike is, but unfortunately I have problems with the front shifting, the chain often dropped to the outside. This happens during sprints and when riding on bad roads, it's annoying, especially during races. I am trying to figure out what the reason is, maybe the frame is too flexible and this causes the front derailleur to push the chain to the outside. I adjusted the derailleur according to the site bettershifting

5
I resolved my fd issues by shimming it with a bit of credit card, think I put some photos in the thread somewhere
I saw these photos. Thanks, I'll try to do this.

6
Recently noticed the same problems as @rcwsr. I also have a bad front derailleur mount, the derailleur works poorly, the chain came off once during a sprint

7
The LeMond method may not be 100% accurate, but a 4cm difference is really too much... are you sure your inseam is 84cm?
Something's not quite right... since you're also unsure about the frame size, have you ever considered consulting a biomechanic?
I measured it several times yesterday in bibs (83 cm). Maybe I just prefer a lower saddle height. Unfortunately I don't have a biomechanic in town

8
There's no obvious issues with the size, but I would say the wrist numbness is because your shifter hoods are too far forwards and you're putting too much weight on them. Try moving them back and see if that makes a difference.
Thanks i will try this. I tried to set the saddle height according to LeMond's method (inseam×0.883), I couldn't even ride like that, it didn't work for me at all. I lowered the saddle by about 4 cm

9
I have already ridden this bike for more than 500 kilometers and I noticed that the stem uno is quite flexible. Otherwise, everything is fine. However, now it seems to me that even with my height 178 and inseam 84 cm I should have taken size 52, because the drop from saddle to handlebar looks quite small. Saddle height on the photo around 69-70 cm. And I feel numbness in the wrist while riding. I would be glad to hear an opinion about the size of the my bike.
Now the bike is on aluminum wheels ztto r1s (1600 grams) with Maxxis welter weight tubes and continental ultra sport 28 mm tires. I also used a full groupset Shimano 105 di2, everything works fine. rxl sl 38 cm handlebar and stem uno 110 mm. Weight with xpedo thrust 7 pedals 7.6-7.7 kg, if the scales are accurate. Thanks to everyone for the help.

10
People who got the first version of frame with the rear axle play:

Did you successfully resolve the issue with the provided axle/conical washers? How many thick washer did you have to put? Spcycle did send me a replacement axle with 3 conical washers+ a thick black flat washer, but no matter the stack I install, I still get some play.

I am trying to confirm here that no matter how many spacers they provide, the axle itself is the issue.
everything works with three conical washers. spcycle sent me these after I contacted them

11
Beautiful build. What is the weight with pedals?

12
I encountered this problem. The bolt won't tighten any further, I don't want to damage the already bad thread even more. No idea what to do now. I don't have any thread cutting tools.

13
I'm sure you guys greased your axle and threads right? Also I always gently insert it until I feel the threads bite. I never force the axle into the threads. Also I feel like new frames when they arrive sometimes need to "flex" into place. Eventually the axle spacing settles at the right width.
Of course I greased the through axle threads

14
Am I the only one that has a hard time screwing the rear thru axle in and out? I did torque the udh to specs. I can the the threaded portion of the axle become shinier everytime I take it on and off.
I also encountered a problem. When I unscrewed the through axle, my udh hanger started to spin in the same direction, because the through axle was jammed in the udh due to the short thread and because the through axle itself was too long. I scratched the frame a little in the process

15
Two washers did not solve the problem completely, but it was a little better. Spcycle compensated for the cost of a new thru axle, but it also does not fit. The axle is not compatible with the washers. The axle is 165 mm and the thread is slightly longer, the wheel is loose.

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