Just tight enough so that there is no play in the headset. It's also called "pre-load" and describes pretty much what it does. If you want a torque setting I'd go with 1-1.5Nm. 5Nm is definitely too much and might even overload the bearings i.e. excessive wear. The top cap does not hold the fork (except during the installation process), the handlebar bolts/clamp will do that. It really is just to pre-load the whole setup so that it is nicely tight when you torque the handlebar bolts to spec. If you want, you could even remove the top cap and screw afterwards - not recommended since it leaves a hole and looks shit but just technically speaking.

Interesting. Most people would have actually preferred a "no hole fork" but didn't know that would have been an option, from what I saw. Sucks, that you see it the other way round. And totally agree with you, they should have made that clear during the ordering process. But not surprised either. One thing I learn from ordering Chinese direct to consumer, is that I over-confirm everything. Had a few "aha-moments" on similar details where I thought everything is clear but turned out it wasn't.

It fits without a spacer, but I used a small one (0.5mm maybe?) just to give a little extra clearance.

46 T, tyres and chainring are maxed out on this frame.

I just got mine and was playing around with tires. The Burt's were too big on the rear but the race king has maybe 4mm of clearance.


Idk what to do for the handlebar situation. I haven't cut the steerer yet but it does not seem like I'll be able to compress the headset. It seems loose. Will report back later.

That looks GREAT

Could you please share which chainstay frame protector have you used?