I have one LEOSEEK now, and I can say that piece it's very honest for the price. Very impressed, and really loved the USB-C interface. No need expensive cable.

Setup: Prowheel crank set + Leoseek + Stone Chainring
Paired with XOSS NAV +

INTEGRATED HANDLEBAR - Fitment Issue (and Solution)

The integrated handlebar set didn’t align perfectly with the compression ring, which caused complications during final assembly.
The only step left was adjusting the cockpit: specifically, tightening the stem bolts and the compression plug bolt.

As the fork spacers began to snug together, I noticed the handlebar movement became extremely stiff (almost locked)... and yet there was still noticeable play in the fork. At one point, I managed to eliminate the fork play entirely, but the handlebar was nearly immobile.

I opted not to use the original dust cap from the frame due to incompatibility with the integrated handlebar. Instead, I used a handlebar and fork spacer set from RXL to maintain compatibility.
Upon inspecting the RXL dust cap washer, I found that the contact point between the compression ring and the RXL dust cap was deeper than the original: a gap of 1.3 mm was missing.

The Fix
The solution was simple, though not immediately obvious: I installed washers between the RXL dust cap and the compression ring. I purchased a set of RISK washers (28.6 x 34 mm), which included six pieces of varying thicknesses.
In my case, I only needed 1.0 mm + 0.3 mm to bridge the gap.

Final Thoughts
Working with an integrated handlebar setup can be frustrating (it's a hell!), especially after everything seems assembled. But in the end, this adjustment resolved the issue.

The cockpit is now tight and play-free, and the handlebar moves smoothly and effortlessly.

Hey everyone!

I'd like to share my experience building my latest bike: Spcycle SP-G069.
https://www.sp-cycle.com/spcycle-2025-new-g069-carbon-gravel-bike-frame-full-hidden-cable-udh-hanger-aero-carbon-gravel-bicycle-frameset-p5858054.html

First of all, I'm not a professional bike mechanic, but I've built 3 bikes at home before, so I've picked up a few things along the way:
01. Endurance Road Bike – My first road build, used mainly for training. I call it MARK #1, and honestly, I might never part with it.
 - Full alloy; Home made wheel with Shimano Hubs and tires 700x28; Groupset Sensah Empire 2x11
02. Aero Road Bike – The incredible Trifox X-8. It's lightning-fast on flat terrain and featherlight for mountain climbs. Perfect for long rides over 150 km. I absolutely love it.
 - Full carbon; Home made wheel with Shimano Hubs and tires 700x25; Groupset Sensah Empire 2x11
03. Fat Bike – My go-to for snowy winters here in Quebec. I really hate indor training...

This new project was pretty straightforward/rational:
 - I chose a gravel frame for versatility. The plan is to run two wheelsets: one for road (700x28c), one for gravel (700x47c).
 - I went with a mechanical groupset, the Sensah Empire 2x11. It's affordable, reliable, and suits my needs perfectly. No need electronic groupset, etc.
 - Use some spare parts, like JUIN TECH brake calippers, chain, cassette, etc.

Overall time spend:
 - 7 days to plan the build and make a budget. After all start to buy the parts. It's pretty hard to check all correlations between those parts.
 - 3 days to build the road wheelset. Sealed bearing was out of question. I prefer Shimano hubs Cup and Cone + pillar spokes (triple butted)
 - 14 days to assembly the bike

My goal is to share some insights from the build process, especially since a few steps were quite unusual and might help others venturing into similar DIY builds.

Overall, I've read some issues related with this frames like: Poor of paint, brake point mount not so well finished, etc. In my case: Zero issues with the frame.

I've got XS frame size. It's sound weird because all my frames where size M or 54. But in the end of the day, the most important it's keep the measures with you body.
This Spcycle XS size it's almost the same as Trifox X-8 M(54) size. Works fine for me: 1.78 cm height (100 kg weight aprox).

Soon I'll come with some news

I've decided to give a second chance for those TPU inner tubes, and for my surprise I've found a good one: OFFBONDAGE (Purple)

Riding some hundreds KM in ROAD (700x28c and 700x25c) and GRAVEL(700x47c), this TPU it's very good. A little heavier than others brands, but less valve leaks and replaceable air core.

If the price hurts a little bit, my second choice would be X-Tiger (green).

I forgot to mention that a good NIPPLE it's a game changer.

Look at this picture the difference between a cheap vs a Pillar nipple. Both are brass.

XOSS official in AliExpress store

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/2231140

The brake detection works very well. My friends in the peloton are impressive too.

In my experience, the problem with 99% of TPU inner tube is the valve, ever!

Too much leaking, no matter the brand.

In order to compare, I've tested against CONTITUBE butyl (Continental) and the valve it's infinitely better than all TPU brand that I've tested.

Example:
 - TPU 90 PSI --> After 5 days they lose +- 10 PSI
 - Contitube 90 PSI --> After 14 days they lose +- 5 PSI