Thanks for all advice.

I have finally managed to get it working using Wheeltop app. Wheeltop support did not configure my account properly for the access to fine tuning so once I complained they fixed it and I now I managed to tune almost perfectly with small adjustments.

So here is my final verdict about this group set. I am comparing it to Shimano 105 di2 that I have installed on my lightcarbon LCR017d bike.

Is it similar to Shimano Di2 105 ?
No, but close. The main difference is that 105 di2 have two front derailer small adjustments when going through rear gears while wheeltop has only one. This means that it is hard for wheeltop front derailer to be tuned to get chain not rubbing guides in extreme combination such as large chainring and largest rear sprocket. This is also very common for mechanical group sets so not something that you cannot live with. Strangely enough, Wheeltop disabled the opposite extreme combination (small chainring, smallest rear sprocket) by default (can be overridden by dreds app).

Is it as fast or as precise as shimano 105 di2?
No, but not that is bothering me. It is still miles better than any mechanical group set that I used before and worth the money.

Who is this for ?
Wheeltop EDS TX rim brake version is the best upgrade for old rim brake frames with no internal cable routing capabilities. My 20 year old aluminium Cannondale CAAD frame is now as nice to ride as my new carbon bike. Easy and fast shifting really makes the difference.
I am not sure if I would use it on a disk frame because most of them are newish and have internal routing for derailer cables. In this case Ltwoo or Di2 105 would be better option with similar price.

I am strangling to set front derailer to not rub the chain. Whatever I do, with limit screws, height of derailer and angle of derailer it will rub the chain in many gears. I am on 11 speed cassette and whatever I do chain will rub on one of the derailer guides  before correcting to new position.

What is really strange is that limit screws for small chainring will also move derailer when chain is in big chainring. That is not how limit screws work on mechanical derailers.

I would start putting chain in big chainring and smallest cog on cassette. Then I would set limit screw so that chain is as close as possible to  derailer’s outside guide. I can do this only by using limit screw that is for small chainring. Limit screw for big chainring is useless and do nothing.

In this case chain will start rubing  derailer’s inside guide after moving few gears up and before it self adjust for higher gears.

Another problem is that when it self adjust to higher gears it does it to too much so it will rub derailer’s outside guide.

Can this be sorted by advanced fine tuning app feature that can be only provided by wheeltop support when asked ?

Also I have tried to use dreds web site recommended here on android phone and from windows laptop but it could not pair it with my group set. It simple does not find it.  If I manage to pair it will I be able to sort these issue and will I be able to set front derailer movement that is needed ?

Hi, I’ve just finished assembling the bike. I still haven’t ridden it yet. It looks great, and it’s fairly heavy, even though I managed to shave off some weight, for example with lighter bar tape, a lighter saddle, and a Dura-Ace cassette.

Unfortunately it’s a little short in reach. The saddle setback is the same as on my previous bike, but I’m still about 1 cm shorter in overall length. That’s actually acceptable, since the previous bike was slightly too long anyway.

The bike is built 100% for racing. It’s equipped with an Ultegra drivetrain with 54/11 gearing, a Dura-Ace cassette, and Kogel oversized pulley wheels. Tires are Vittoria Corsa Pro Speed TLR. Wheel setup is 60 mm front and 65 mm rear, with a 26 mm front tire and a 28 mm rear tire

Beautiful bike. Did you paint yellow logos or did you apply decals ?

Looking good! Which chameleon paint code is that?

LCB-01HS Chameleon 01HS

I was communicating with another sale person Chloe over email only. As long as email is sent during Hong Kong working hours I would get response the same day.

It is very nice!! I am figuring out which color I will go for, UD matte finish is one option, I was wondering if you are planning to put some decals or your frame or you keep it plain as it is. I am looking for some idea (like decals) to make it less plain.

I have ordered UD mate too and with decal colour "PANTONE 332C"/"Celeste Blue" so that it matches the same decal colour on ryet 3d printed saddle. Decal design on frame is very minimalistic with only lightcarbon logo on the front and rear. Lightcarbon wording is only presented on handlebar and on fork but not on down tube.

The Falath isn’t a like for like comparison - its geometry is more aggressive with a much shorter head tube.
Just to note that I paid $131 for DPD customs paid UK delivery.

I think big difference is the tire size, 38C vs 32C. I think the Falath is stuck at 32. The fact that you could use this frame for both road rides and some descent gravel makes it worth it.

Agreed with both statements. I would also add that elves falath exp's awkward seat tube position is forcing shimano di2 batter to be placed inside the down tube through the BB hole instead of the standard position inside a seat post. So any battery maintenance requires BB removal.   Not a big concern for sram or wheeltop electric group sets but I have a spare shimano 105 di2 to fit.