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Messages - bikenerdchris

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1
Hey guys,

it's been a while since my last comment on this topic, but I've been lurking here for quite some time and I'm really glad seeing all these new owners and the people helping each other out. I'm still really happy with the bike. I get compliments regarding the look, it climbs well, it's fast and quite responsive, so overall just echoing the feedback other's have given here so far.

Anyway, today I sadly destroyed my UDH. I was going for a after work bike ride, where I heard my rear tyre and disc brake rubbing. I stopped immedeatly and noticed the problem: the UDH moved to the cassette, essentially moving the entire rim to the non drive side. Luckily, I was only 5km into the ride, so I instantly rode back home. As I was dismantling everything, it finally dawned on me: I recently bought into the Tailfin Rear Rack System, where I had to change the orignal UDH with another one for the longer thru axle. After I installed the orginal UDH insert again, I somehow managed to forget to add the washer between frame and insert. Sadly, this mishap caused a few damages on the frame: a small chip where the UDH rests against the frame, a few scrapes in the thru axle hole (drive side) and the scuffs on the non drive side (see pictures)

So my questions, regarding my stupid mistake are as follows:

1. Is the frame still safe to ride? My opinion suggests yes, because the chainstay is quite chunky. I wouldn't have a problem riding this bike, but with my bikepacking adventures in mind, I just want to be a bit safer and ask for other opinions.

2. My UDH threads are little damaged (just the first thread), so I wanna try to chase both the UDH and insert at work. Does someone know the reverse thread pitch for this?

3. If my plan above doesn't work, do I have to check for something when ordering a new UDH? I know I have to look out for a M12x1 insert and use the washer   ::)

4. And last just another thing that crossed my mind, for people who also ordered from TideAce: was a second UDH included? I searched through my bike parts and could'nt find one.

Thanks for everyone who can help me out and share his view on the frame damage!

2
Anyone using Tailfin Bags on their 54 frame? Currently looking for upgrading my bikepacking setup using this frame, but I'm unsure which bags - in particular frame and top tube bag - would be the best fit. Thanks in advance!

3
Tried catching up on this thread since my last visit, can't wait to get back on this thing when the weather hopefully improves within the next couple of weeks. Really nice seeing all the other builds and nice color choices. This frame really got pretty popular, I like it.

I'm wondering if anyone is using the tailfin rack on this one. I'm contemplating doing a bikepacking trip, but on this frame instead. Really interested in the tailfin setup, maybe someone also can provide some pictures.

4
Also have the Lexon Thin Line on my gravelbike, but only clocked a few hundred km's so far. I really like the finishing and ergonomics, everything seems good so far. Internal routing was a pleasure, way easier than other handlebars I've used. Only finicky is the reduction sleeve they ship if you need to use it, as the tolerances seem quite tight.

5
Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Tideace NEW Gravel Frame: GR201
« on: September 18, 2025, 01:39:21 PM »
Hello, everyone.
What is the largest single crank you have installed?
I would like to install a 48T. Is that possible?
Are spacers needed?
Can you advise me?  :D

I run a Riro carbon crank set, shimano sized spindle, 46T with a 2mm MUQZI spacer and still have enough clearance. That would be the absoulute max. I would run tbh.

Anyway, does someone managed to mount a Tailfin rack on this frame, using the quick release for the extender thru axle? I'm not familiar with this system, if the frame has a UDH.

6
It's been a while, but I'm finally back with my finished build. After posting my story with the problem I encountered with my front wheel from elitewheels, they shipped me a new one while I was on vacation in Austria. A bit of a bummer I wasn't able to take the gravel bike with me, but the roadbike did just fine. After coming back yesterday, I completed my build. Also going tubeless for the first time, still unsure about tire pressures, as I'm running 2.2" in the front and 2.0" in the rear. Silca tyre pressure calculator suggested 1.4 bar in the front and 1.6 bar in the rear, don't know if I should go lower, but anyway - here's my full build:

frame: ordered from Tideace, size 54, color 58, with all mounts (I'm 178cm tall with an 88cm inseam)
handlebar: Lexon thin line (because I don't like the extreme flare the unox have), 400x80
groupset: Wheeltop EDS GX, carbon version
crankset: Riro carbon with 46t
BB: Ztto
wheels: Elitewheels Edge Gravel HOOKED 45, tubeless with Silca sealant and Ridenow valves
cassette: Ztto 11-50 11 speed
chain: Shimano 11 speed, waxed
saddle: Ryet 3D printed honeycomb
bottle cages: from a brand called HUALONG (but I'm sure these are sold under any other brand)
tyres: Continental Raceking 2.2" front, 2.0" rear
disc rotors: VXM in 160

I've spent some time calculating and checking my size, before cutting down the steerer. I'm really glad with my fit, did my first 50k testride, everything seemed good. The gearing seems good for my purposes, I can handle most inclines so far and I don't think I'm missing on speed when I'm descending. I've replaced every bolt I'm currently not using with nylon bolts I've found on aliexpress. I was first hesitant which groupset I should use - either Ltwoo gravel or Wheeltop - but someone, I think either gloscherrybomb or Uberflo - recommended the Wheeltop one because of the bigger cassette. I'm glad for choosing the Wheeltop one, because I really like the ergonomics of the shifters. I also tried flaring in the shifters for the first time, to see how much the difference is. That will be decided within the next few weeks, when I'm able to get some more km's in.

In conclusion: I really enjoyed my ride today, the bike feels like a weapon. Even on flats you are able to hold some speed, even though I have these chunky tyres mounted. I loved climbing and my gear range seems enough so far. I love how much of a difference this is in comparison to my roadbike. I'm really looking forward to tommorow's ride and the next few in the upcoming weeks. Thanks for everyone who contributes on this topic!



7
Getting jealous seeing all these finished builds. You guys did an amazing job, especially the blue/yellow one - also nice to see a fellow german. Anyway, I spent the last week dealing with EliteWheels on Aliexpress, because I had a problem with the front wheel I previously discussed. My update was, that the rim visually didn't get damaged, but it was definitely out of true. The discussion with the team of EliteWheels was kinda tiring, because it seemed that they didn't understand what happened. They were sure, that the rim is only out of true and that this happened during shipping, which I denied, because the rims were true right out the box. Only after I initiated a refund, which was validated by aliexpress support already, they want to send me a completly new front wheel. All of this seems rather exhausting if you consider, that EliteWheels is a established brand within our circle anyway, has a good reputation and is basically recommended to anyone, who don't wanna empty their wallets. Also many people on here seem to ride the same kind of rim, which helped my decision to order a set from them. Ironically they advertise their 1000 day warranty, I hope that this isn't always the rule if you have to deal with them.

Fingers crossed I get my new front wheel in a few weeks, because I planned to take the road- and gravelbike on my upcoming vacation with me. Wish me luck!

EDIT: Got the confirmation that I really get a new front wheel now, after they initially wanted to sent me a different one...
Anyway, does anyone know which cassette spacer I need to use, if I want to mount my ZTTO 11-50 cassette on my 10/11/12 speed freehub? My recherche suggested a 1.85mm spacer, but I want to be confirmed. Tried mounting without a spacer - as I don't have one atm - and there is still a huge gap and can't tighten it properly.

8
Both compression rings can work. The plastic one seems to fit better for most, so preferably use that one.

So I started assembling the bike and everything went well so far. I've used the plastic ring and it works. Shifters are attached without spilling too much oil and making a mess like last time I've done a build. Rear derailleur mounted, crankset, seatpost and saddle. Yesterday I've went ahead and tried setting up the rims, which resulted in following problem:

I'm running Elitewheels 45 Edge-Gravel wheelset which are hooked and have an internal width of 24mm. In the front I mounted a 2.2 Conti Raceking and 2.0 in the rear. After initially setting the tyres without sealant, everything went well. Then I started handling the mess and added sealant to the front wheel. This is my first time running tubeless btw. I didn't make a huge mess to my surprise and even tho I had some spillage, I was able to clean it very quickly. I pumped up the tyres to 3.5 bar / 65 PSI which isn't the max. printed on the tyre sidewall. Didn't hear a loud pop, but everything looked fine.

To give the tyre a good spin to properly distribute the sealant, I mounted it on the bike to avoid doing it by hand. I've noticed that the front wheel still had a little wobble, so I thought it isn't perfectly seated. After demounting, I gave it a few pumps with my floor pump, so not overly exaggerate the pressure and I've heard these little pop sounds I'm familiar with and was sure, that the tyre is now seated correctly. A few seconds later these horrible cracking sounds started, continously without any pauses. In panicmode I tried to deflatet the tyre, but I was so shocked what just happened. I've never heard something like that. I demounted everything, checked the tyre and the rim. The rim has no visible cracks, no damages on the inside or outside and when I give it some thumb pressure on the sidewalls, I don't hear any delayering or cracking.

I've used the tubeless tape supplied with the wheelset. The rims are carbon btw. Did I destroy my wheel, or is it something someone has also experienced? I'm still a bit shocked and worried.

EDIT: Definitely something happened to the rim, it's out of true now.

9
I don't have any experience with any of these frames, but I own a Elves Falath Evo. This bike is absolutely worth every cent. The paintjob is amazing, it handles well, the quality is really good and the overall packaging the bike came with feels very premium. They also have a nice support system all around the globe. The german contact was always very friendly and quite fast to react. Can't say anything bad so far, I've ridden over 10k on this bike since last year and can't complain.

10
Is there any reason the Lexon Thin Line handlebar wouldn't work on this frame? I currently have PRO LT Gravel handlebars on it with a red shift stem so I am trying to match the shape of those more closely and the Thin Line has the same flare whereas the Unox has quite a bit wider flare. I don't know if the stiffness would be a problem since it seems like the Thin Line is designed for road and is probably lighter.

I also ordered the Lexon Thin Line handlebar, as I'm not a huge fun of flared ones. I'm a roadie by heart. So I think you're fine, as the Thin Line uses the same spacers as the Unox, other people are using here. But considering this, I have a question for everyone who mounted the Unox on this frame:

The package came with a plastic and aluminum c-ring/compression ring. I'm almost certain I have to use the plastic one, because it gives me the height needed for the first big mandatory spacer. The aluminum one is too low, the mandatory spacer just sits on top of the headtube and doesn't engage in th alignment hole. Or am I doing something wrong here?

11
Also did a 1000km tour and I'm really happy with it 👌🏼

Is this a tailfin mounted on the rear of your bike? Or which brand is it? And if yes, do you need some kind of special adapters for using the tailfin on this frame, as I'm also planning on doing bikepacking with it.

12
I´m really thorn between a 52 and a 54.

Givent that i currently run a 56 that is clearly a liitle large and have to use an 80stem with almost maxed out saddle forward to reduce total reach.

Stats:

1,77cm
84 inseam

Current bike geo

Reach: 384
Stack height:  606
Effective top tube lenght:  570

I'm afraid of of too small of a frame for stable descent, which i do quote a lot and like to keep doing so!

Whats your take?

I was also undecided between a 52 and 54. I'm currently riding a Elves Falath Evo 2023 with 378mm reach and 540 stack, all spacers, orome handlebar with 70mm reach and 100mm stem length.
I'm almost the same height als you are with the exact same inseam and went with a 54 and a 80mm handlebar. You can check your geo and compare it at bike-stats.[de], with handlebar numbers even. [https://xybikecalc.com/] is also an interesting site, where you can compare geo's in raw numbers and see how increasing or decreasing certain values change the stack and reach of the selected bike. My Falath evo also has a 25mm setback seatpost and the 54 compared to the 52 has also the higher stack without increasing the reach too much (only 4mm iirc). The bigger frame will be more stable on the rougher terrain I guess and there's more space for bikepacking bags, which I also want to do with this frame.

I don't have the frame yet, so I can't give you feedback on the actual fit, but that's the theory I've gone with. Maybe that's helping a bit.

13
Bike’s all set up! Took a bit of work, but the first test ride went great.

Frame 52
Garbaruk 10-52
Garbaruk Oval 44T
GX Eagle AXS
Elitewheels Gravel SLR
Schwalbe Thunder Burt 2.1

8.5kg with cages, pedals, power meter, garmin mount.

Bike looks mint! Could you tell me which handlebars you are running? And as Iam unsure about sizing, your height and inseam?

14
I have a 54cm elves evo (2024 version though) with 100mm stem.

I’ve ordered a 54cm GR201, should arrive in the next 10 days.
Will report back on fit, but looks like it’ll be good, though obviously more relaxed than the elves (which is what I want in a gravel bike)

I’m 183cm

Interesting. I would also want to go with the 54cm, because of the higher stack, but I kinda nervous about the reach. Additionally, with the 54 I have less seatpost exposed.
I guess you have the Falath Evo+ right? With the longer reach and smaller seat tube?

Which handlebar/stem or onepiece handlebar did you choose?

15
Hey guys,

I've been lurking this thread here on WW and on CT for quite a while and I'm about to pull the trigger on this frame, but I'm unsure about sizing.
I've build myself an Elves Falath Evo Roadbike last year, which fits me quite well. It's the 2023 version in 52 with a 378mm reach and 540mm stack. I'm running a 100mm onepiece stem handlebar with 70mm reach and 34mm stack. The seatpost has also a 25mm setback.

So I'm wondering if I should also get the 52 for the tideace noah, because it's pretty similar. The Tideace has a longer reach tho. The comparison on bike-stats geometry-wise doesn't look to bad, but I'm worried about the longer reach. It's 396, so basically 18mm longer.

So my questions are as follows:

How does my 25mm setback on the setpost convert to the reach measurements? I don't think its 1:1, is it?
Does the Tideace come with a setback seatpost?
I wanna run the AeroGx handlebar from elves supbrand Orome wich is designed for a 1 1/8" steerer diameter, does it fit on this fork? Or can somebody recommend another handlebar? I've seen Lexon mentioned, but I don't like the extreme flare these ones have.

Thanks in advance!

P.S:  I'm 175cm height with an 84cm inseam.

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