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Messages - don

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1
Component Deals & Selection / Re: Hudud carbon cranks
« on: August 16, 2026, 05:44:10 PM »
What's a good USD price for the 280g version? Cheers

:)
I purchased two sets so far from this store:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005011776046372.html
I think price pretty good and quality ok. First set was perfect, second set slight run-out on one side (<1mm on 50t chain ring edge) but passable.
I purchased another set from another shop but sent back for refund as run-out was maybe 1mm or more and short spline type.

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Component Deals & Selection / Re: Hudud carbon cranks
« on: August 16, 2026, 06:10:20 AM »
This is the two different types. IMO the model with the deeper spline works a bit better.

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Component Deals & Selection / Re: Hudud carbon cranks
« on: August 16, 2026, 06:06:04 AM »
Hi there. I’ve had issues with lateral wobble in the chainring whenever I install the crankset; I’m not sure if anyone else has experienced this. I’ve tried everything—placing spacers here and there, using a different power meter, swapping chainrings—but nothing works. The problem goes away when I install Dura-Ace cranks, so I gather the issue lies in the alignment of the crank arm with the spindle, though I’m not certain—which is why I’m asking if anyone else has run into this. I’m thinking about buying a different crankset and reusing my current chainrings and power meter. The options are: Budget: Rpantahy High-end: Cybrei or Elilee
I've noticed there are two versions of this crankset. I returned one set due to the chainrings/spider being out of alignment. It is a problem with the mounting face. However, I've heard it can be a common problem with many chinese cranksets. I bought another set and it is still not perfect but much better and acceptable.

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Component Deals & Selection / Re: Hudud carbon cranks
« on: July 27, 2026, 08:15:22 AM »
don, could you explain better the issue?
My feeling with a lot of chinese cranksets is there can be manufacturing variations affecting quality and fitment so that can cause problems despite proper installation. Good thing is Aliexpress has a good return/refund policy.
I bought another set recently and there is something different about this other set but I will update soon.
Did another ~6 hour 150km ride with 2000m elevation on my original HUD crankset and still going strong without issues or needing to be tightened.

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Component Deals & Selection / Re: Hudud carbon cranks
« on: July 17, 2026, 08:08:23 AM »
I used grease and a torque wrench, but the threads felt extremely tight.. I'm not entirely sure if the 40Nm reading was accurate or if the wrench clicked too early just from the thread friction.

Maybe I could try using a bit of threadlocker instead? ???
Something doesn't sound right. I did 2 x 5hr ~150km rides on mine including some rought road and they are still tight as.
Maybe get someone to check it out, a fresh set of eyes is sometimes helpful, or perhaps there is a manufacturing issue.

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Component Deals & Selection / Re: Hudud carbon cranks
« on: July 15, 2026, 06:34:35 AM »
Hey guys, I have this crankset too, but I'm running into a few issues.
First off, the thread on the left pedal is extremely tight; I had to force it a bit to get it threaded all the way in.
Secondly, the crank arms tend to loosen from the titanium spindle quite easily. Has anyone else experienced these problems?
I haven't had these problems with mine. Did you torque the crank bolt to 40NM? Also apply grease to the pedal thread?
Could be that the manufacturing tolerances are out with your set?

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Component Deals & Selection / Re: Hudud carbon cranks
« on: July 02, 2026, 06:08:59 PM »
how do you use the spacer?
I put the bigger one on drive side.
Today, during a ride, looking the drivetrain from the saddle i noticed that maybe is not well centered in the frame.
You can also put some spacers/washers on one of the pedals to compensate if you want to get things perfect.
For me I I think I put maybe 3mm or so of spacers (2) on the drive side, none on the other side, and 2 washers on the non-drive side pedal.
You can then adjust your cleat position on your shoe for final centering.

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Component Deals & Selection / Re: Hudud carbon cranks
« on: June 30, 2026, 04:07:39 AM »
I have the same issue with magene powermeter. How do you fix the fitting ? Do you dremel (or file) the dent on magene powermeter to fit the easton ?
I know one person who has used a dremel but I think you could destroy the power meter/spider if you're not careful.
I used a vernia and a small round and square file. The aluminium is very soft so I carefully shaped it and took maybe an hour as I didn't want to stuff things up.
I'll post a DIY soon when I get a chance. The modification actually fits more snug than the original Megene crankset which was a bit loose. My power readings the other day over a 5 hour ride and 1600m of elevation seemed very accurate and comparable to prior readings so I'd say there is no affect on performance but I'll do another big ride this weekend to confirm.

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Component Deals & Selection / Re: Hudud carbon cranks
« on: June 30, 2026, 12:25:40 AM »
I just installed mine on my road bike with no issues at all apart from sorting out which spacers to use. Long 5 hour ride on the weekend with 1600m elevation and over 130km and the crankset performed nicely. Finish is also very nice and in my 165mm weight was spot on at 180g (verified with standard weights). With the spacers add a few more grams or so. 
I'm probably going to get another set in 160mm for my TT bike.
Note I had to modify my Megene Power Meter spider to fit the Easton spindle but that also worked very well with no issues with performance. I'll post a full seperate review after a further test ride.

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I'm a bit wary of buying anywhere but Ali, so is the one you mentioned exactly this one? https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005009901994908.html Cheers!
I purchased direct but yes that looks like the exact wheel and same seller so definitely purchase with confidence. 

11
Hi guys thought I'd post my experience with BIKEDOC DX28 Carbon Disc Wheel trading as Synergy (Xiamen) Import and Export Co as there are not many modern disc wheel designs for rim brake bikes around. 

I contacted a few different manufacturers/sellers and settled on BIKEDOC as they have some good reviews and designs. The lady I dealt with was Menly who was very helpful and was able to provide specs close to what I requested. I did want their FB01 31mm toroidal shape which was my request but this could only be built as disc brake only so I settled on the DX28 which is rim brake compatible.

So full specs as follows:
Depth Solid disc wheel toroidal design
Rim width outer 28mm
Internal 22mm
Widest point 29 mm (toroid).
Engraved brake track
Specified weight ~1050g
Measured weight 1023g

I chose their standard hub which spins fine and still smooth. Finish is very nice in the matt UD and there are also nice seals on the hub end caps which I know some hubs don't have. I haven't noticed any issues with runout and everything still appears very true. The wheel seems solid/siff and the ratchet is loud!

So far I've ridden 2 x 90k tt, 1 x 80k tt, 40km TT plus 80km or so warmup and the wheel has held up well and still like new. Feels very fast with the conti GP5000 S TR and TT TR 28c tire set up as tubeless and running ~67psi, S TR measures ~30mm and TT TR measures ~31mm. So arguably the S TR is a little more aero on this wheel. I was first in my age group off the bike in IM70.3 Melbourne on a windy course so the wheel is definitely fast as I am no power house on the bike.

If I change up to a disc brake TT bike I will be definitely contacting them again as these wheels are great value and fit for purpose. I definitely recommend you contact them if you are on a budget.

 

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Yeah 28 mm rim width for rim brake is getting pretty wide and most rim brake bikes can only fit 26c tires anyway. I've squeezed in a rear 28c Conti GP TT TR on my old Focus Izalco Crono, measures about 30mm on 22mm inner, but there is only about a 2mm gap, but the solid disc wheel stays very true and is stiff so doesn't seem to be an issue with any rubbing as long as I get it perfectly centred. The painful thing is adjusting the rim v brakes every time I change back to my training wheels which are quite narrow at 24mm external vs my race wheels at 28mm.

Another thing to note is BITRANZ appears to spec the rim width at the rim edge rather than widest point. I am looking at a new wheelset for my disc brake road bike and their 32mm width is actually 34mm at the widest point, ie., toroidal shape, which is nice for aerodynamics if running 32c tires. I'm pretty sure they do even wider gravel style wheelsets. It's also nice that they customise with no spoke holes which IMO is nice for running tubeless.

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Just thought I'd given an update on my 80mm BITRANZ carbon rim. Still going strong and still remaining true (slight run out as before) despite hitting a few pot holes in some of the races. Probably has about 400km on it now with the Aero 111 front tire. Works well but do notice a little bit of buffeting with side winds up to 20-30 km/h but that's expected with the deeper front wheel.

Only issue i'm having is the OEM red campag carbon rim brake pads are a bit grabby/pulsating under heavy braking, although not really an issue on a flat TT.
I did have to shave these to get the wide rim to fit so might just need to try some new low profile carbon rim brake pads so if anyone has any recommendations let me know.

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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: ICAN TT017 TT Bike Build
« on: December 30, 2025, 01:05:41 AM »
They look like nice bikes and good UCI style set up. My concern for some triathlon riders is that there might be a bit too much set back on the seat. So difficult to get hips over the bottom bracket for modern Pro triathlon style TT position.

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Hi guys thought I'd post my DIY experience upgrading my old Fulcrum Red Wind H.80 which had a 22mm outer rim width, which I ended up using as a donor wheel (hub and spokes) see photos below. I checked out a number of wheel suppliers like Timetec, Mostsport, Light Bicycle, etc., but settled on BRITranz due to the 34mm rim width they were able to provide. They were able to fully customise the spoke holes to 16 radial with no holes on the outer rim so ready for tubeless. The lady I dealt with was Cathy who was really helpful and was able to provide specs exactly to what was required.

So full specs as follows:
Depth 80mm
Rim width 28mm outer
Internal 23mm
Widest point 34mm
16 hole radial
Engraved brake track
Rim weight measured as ~620g
Rim cost $225USD + shipping

So far I've ridden 2 x 90k tt and 40km TT plus 30km or so warmup and the wheel has held up well and feels very fast with the conti aero 111 29c tire set up as tubeless and running ~67psi, measures 30mm on the BITRANZ rim. I was first in my age group off the bike in IM70.3 Melbourne on a windy course so the wheel is definitely fast as I am no power house on the bike.

My only negative is that the spoke hole angle could have been slightly more angled in to put less strain on the spokes but doesn't seem to cause any issues. Otherwise I was able to get the wheel near perfectly true with just a tiny bit of run out in one spot, maybe 0.5mm, well within tollerances. So all up it was a cheap way to modernise a really old wheel. Note the Fulcrum wheel had hardly been used so hub bearings were still excellent. Also being able to reuse the Fulcrum bladed spokes was nice. All I did was replace the spoke nipples with ones from BITRANZ.


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