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When you open the storage compartment door, you have to pull it upwards to remove it. When you do so, the door levers against the spot in question. I suspect this is the source of the cracks. I try to be as gentle as I can when removing the door.
Yeah, it also depends on the bottle cage you use.
I twist mine out sideways to avoid the contact
So.... It's not wrinkles.
One side of the larger frame bag is cut and bonded absolutely perfectly
The other side with the zip is either cut slightly long or the material is bonded a bit off which means the face of the bag won't sit flush and flat. Very frustrating, but for twenty quid...shrug.
I've got another coming so will see if that's the same.
Shame as it spoils an otherwise brilliant bag
ETA
Looks like replacement is doing the same annoying thing. So near but so far.
I have ordered two new Ryet carbon 3D saddles from Lexon (in 143mm and 140mm wide).Hey, could you do me a favor and measure the width of the nose of the saddles?
One of them got loose after less than 300km. The other one has only 112km, let's see what happens with it.
They sent me 50% of the price back. The saddles look good, weigh 170-175g more than in the description, but that’s fine as long as they feel good and are durable.
In terms of feel, they’re not bad or comfortable for my ass, for me just regular saddles….
Hi everyone,
Is anyone running an LCR018-D frame with an Ultegra 12v (R8100) groupset?
I’m getting vibrations (rumbling) when pedaling under tension on the smallest cogs. It’s also especially noticeable on my direct-drive trainer.
My drivetrain is brand new and perfectly indexed. Has anyone noticed a similar resonance or chainline issue with this specific frame combo, or is it just my setup?
Thanks!
The seatpost and storage cover have kept me holding off on a final decision. These new reports of high speed wobble are more concerning. I'm wondering what role wheel/tire choice are playing in this.
I was wondering about the axle length and if it's too long for the 86mm bottom bracket.
I have something similar with my cheap Think Rider Alu Crank set (L165mm/D24mm) and power meter, normal pedaling is fine, but as soon you put a bit more power into it, you hear a chain rub on one spot of the chainring. I assume it's the cheap crank set in my case.
I had the same with a RIRO carbon crank set (L165/D29), which i had installed with a cheap ceramic BB. In this case it was the BB itself, it had to much play, even when pre-loaded correctly you could basically twist the axle in the BB shell. I have to make a picture of the spindle later today, because there is a specific wear pattern on the spindle (paint), which is 180° appeared on left and right of it.
Hi all again,
i still cant fix the issue.
I reinstalled crankset AND bb multiple times, using alot of grease and the correct torque. i also used spacers to eliminate play in the bb. Everything runs smovely and without any noise, when using the small chainring. But when using the big chainring and applying force the left pedal, there are these weird noises. I can rule out the chainring and pedals too, because i also reinstalled them and on the small chainring everything is perfect.
A lot of research let me come to the conclusion, that the BB does seem to not be able to handle the torque/torsion of the crank spindle when using left pedal with big power and using the big chainring.
Has anyone any experiences like this? What else can I try besides buying a new bearing?
