Hey everyone,

Now that the days are getting shorter (at least in the Northern Hemisphere), I'm curious what kind of light setups you're all running.
I have a Magicshine EVO 1700 and tried mounting it directly under the handlebar using the included GoPro adapter. However, because my stem is only 80mm, the back of the light hits the steerer tube before I can tilt it down far enough.

My other option is mounting it directly underneath my Garmin mount, but I'm worried the weight (~150g) might snap the plastic mount over rougher roads. i have the standard plastic mount from LightCarbon, not the 3D-printed titanium version.

Has anyone run a similar light setup on an out-front mount without issues, or found an extension/adapter that works for short stems?

Hi everyone,

Quick update after riding my LCF018D for about 1,000 km now.

For those who remember my previous post, I had spotted a suspicious crack/damage on the top tube of my initial frame after my first test ride. Here is how everything played out, along with some long-term feedback on the build, ride quality, and recent upgrades.

The support process with the LightCarbon team went well overall, as they agreed to send a free replacement frame for the damaged one. However, the whole timeline took quite a while:

• March 15: Initial order placed
• May 20: First frame received
• June 8: Noticed issue with the frame and contacted LightCarbon
• June 11: LightCarbon confirmed they would manufacture and send a replacement frame
• August 14: Replacement frame arrived

The replacement frame has a slightly different shade of purple/carbon finish compared to my original frame and fork. As a result, the fork and the new frame look a bit off if you look closely, but it's acceptable. According to LightCarbon, the color varies between mixing processes due to slight differences in proportions and temperature. I guess this makes sense, even though the visual difference is quite stark.

Build Experience
Having to tear down the first build and start over from scratch was definitely annoying, though rebuilding it the second time was much faster.

Unfortunately, I had to replace both hydraulic brake lines again (or to be precise, the front line as I was able to reuse the longer rear line for the front brake). Cutting them down to remove the olive and to be able to route them through the frame left them too short during the swap. On top of that, I accidentally installed one of the headset bearings upside down and only noticed after routing the lines, so I had to re-route everything once more. But overall, I'm pretty happy with how smoothly it all went considering this was my first build!

Riding Impressions & Fit
The bike rides amazingly well. The geometry and fit feel spot on, especially compared to my old bike which was a bit too big for me. I recently completed a 230 km group ride and didn't experience any pain or discomfort anywhere. It might not be the snappiest bike I've ever ridden, but it is no slouch either.

I've cut the steerer tube very conservatively during the build, so I am currently running 3 cm of spacers. Given how comfortable it feels, I think I can safely drop it down to 2 cm, though I still need to source a round top cap and matching spacers before making the adjustment.

As for common issues discussed on the forum:

• Seatpost: No slipping issues whatsoever, though I am fairly light (67 kg).
• Storage Hatch: My frame has the updated storage compartment latch. It did pop open once while riding over rough cobblestones, but I noticed it in time due to the rattling noise and closed it before the cover could fly off.
• Saddle Clamp: Really hard to use a torque wrench there and one of the screws is starting to round already, I will replace them with titanium ones soon.

Final Weight: The bike currently weighs 8.2 kg fully loaded, which includes pedals, bottle cages, computer mount, and the frame storage bag filled with tools. Stripped down to standard manufacturer weighing specs (without pedals, storage bag contents, etc.), it should come in right around 7.7 kg.

Full Build Spec List

• Frame & Handlebar: LightCarbon LCF018D (Size 500) in glossy raw carbon + crystal purple finish, paired with integrated handlebar (380 mm x 80 mm)
• Groupset: Shimano 105 Di2
• Crankset: Magene PES 515 (165 mm) with Magene Chainrings (52-36T)
• Bottom Bracket: TOKEN Ninja BB47V24
• Wheelset: Serenade TAR 50WS (Front) & TAR 60WS (Rear) (1350g, 25 mm inner width)
• Tires: Continental GP 5000 (32 mm Front & Rear)
• Tubes: RideNow TPU
• Brake Rotors: IIIPro (160 mm Front / 140 mm Rear)
• Saddle: LightCarbon SD01
• Pedals: Shimano PD-ES600
• Bar Tape: SUPACAZ Starfade Purple (2.5 mm)

Overall, despite the long wait for the replacement frame, I'm extremely happy with how the bike performs on long days in the saddle. Let me know if you have any questions about the frame or the build!

Quote from: POTOOOOOOOO on July 19, 2026, 02:56:35 AM
If you want something aero, and will use 30mm tyres then these are far too narrow.
If you want to use gravel tyres then they'll probably not be aero on any rims so I'd concentrate your efforts towards the 30mm road setting.


There are absolutely tones of options for 25-26 internal wheels with wider external measurements which would be a much better fit and also offer some aero befit

Is it far too narrow?
I read of the 105% rule, which states that the external rim should be at least 105% of the tire width.
And the wheels I mentioned have an external width of 34mm, which is more than 105% of 30 mm.

Are there no downsides at all to have wider rims?

Quote from: glitch on July 19, 2026, 05:51:16 AM
In regards to staggered setup, if you look what the established brands offer, it is the other way round with higher rim in the front as the front hits the air first. I have 45 Serenade wheels, 50 Ican and 60 Scribe - I enjoy the Serenade wheels the most. I often ride in windy conditions and they are the least impacted by crosswinds and are by far the lichtest which gives a snappy feeling and is loads of fun for short power bursts riding rolling hills.

Yes I've also heard that from an aerodynamic standpoint, deeper front wheels make more sense.
But I would have tought, that a shallower front wheel would reduce the impact from cross winds.
Which Serenade model do you have?

Hey everyone,

I wrote a while back about having some issues with my frame, a crack on the top tube (likely from shipping) that I unfortunately only noticed during my first ride after finishing the build.

I'm happy to give a quick update: I contacted Light Carbon, and on June 11th, they confirmed they will provide a free replacement frame (excluding handlebar, fork, and seat post), complete with the custom paint job. They are also covering all shipping costs. Massive props to their customer service for handling it so well.

A bit off topic, but while waiting for the new frame to arrive, I'm looking for a new wheelset to pair with it. I want to keep the build looking clean, so I'll be opting for a matte UD finish with no decals.

I've been eyeing a 45mm front / 60mm rear staggered setup from Serenade: serenadebikes.net/23mm-internal-high-performance-aero-bike-wheels-build-with-carbon-fiber-spokes-p6704522.html.
To give you some context on how I will use them, I will mostly be running 30mm road tires for summer, but the wheels should also allow for 35-38mm gravel tires. I am looking for a setup that is reasonably light and snappy without sacrificing flat-road aero, especially since I mostly ride flat roads and only ride hills on vacations.

Do you think this configuration makes sense for an aero frame, or should I consider other alternatives in the sub 700€ price bracket? What wheels are you guys running on your builds, and are you happy with them?
Serenade seems to have a good price performance ratio, but I am open to other suggestions.

Quote from: kbernstein on June 08, 2026, 02:23:42 AM
does the 949 include the handlebars and shipping? i got a much higher quote for a relatively similar paint

This was the price for the frame + handlebar + fork + painting but without shipping cost and bank fees.

Quote from: kbernstein on June 07, 2026, 02:07:07 PM
doesn't look like just paint damage to me. beautiful paint though, how much did the paint job cost?

I paid 949 $ for the frame which includes the price for the paint job + the logo.

Quote from: mingc on June 07, 2026, 04:03:09 PM
It certainly doesn't look good. It's hard to tell from your video whether the difference in tap sounds was due to changes in the material or to a different tapping action. What does it sound like on the bottom part of the tube where most of the crack seems to be located? You may ultimately need an ultra-sound or x-ray scan to be sure.

There is a certain spot where it sounds a bit dull.

Quote from: MarioCanario on June 07, 2026, 04:10:52 PM
Do you or maybe LC have footage from before transport? Maybe due to transport?

Unfortunately I didnt take any video after unpacking it, but I didn't notice anything during the assembly.
But the spot also easier to see in daylight, so could've missed it.
I also think that it was most likely due to transport, since this an unusual spot.

Quote from: jksu on June 07, 2026, 07:34:52 PM
beautiful bike/paint job!  mine is similar but with ferrari red and i asked for a fade to the glossy carbon. and solid build in terms of parts. great quality and value.

curious if you got the updated v3 door with the down position as closed?  would be disappointed even with that change that it's still coming off.

and sorry to hear about the crack. assuming they take care of you, and LC does seem to be a legit company willing to stand behind their products, it will still test the patience to have to go through this warranty process with back and forth photos and questions, strip the parts you spent a lot of time meticulously installing, etc. plus another 2-3month wait for a replacement. but i guess it's trade off we're all making going with LC, instead of going down the street to a trek or specialized dealer. i'm sure you were excited to ride the bike this summer.

i'm trying to keep my own expectations a bit low and almost expect delays or to be disappointed...  keeping my current rim brake road bike tuned and good to ride in case this LC build has hiccups

This is also the V2 (I think?) door, where the door is closed when the latch is in the up position.
I have not used any loctite or increased the torque of the screw thought, that might help.

Yeah a bit of bummer with the bike, but I can still use my old bike until this is resolved.

Hi everyone,

I finally finished my very first bike build! Honestly, I was a bit nervous going into it, but everything actually went incredibly smoothly. I particularly want to shout out the Shimano manuals, they are incredibly detailed, easy to follow, and made the whole process a breeze for a first-timer.

In the end, the sizing feels absolutely spot on, and the overall ride quality is very good and comfortable. Plus, the custom paint job looks absolutely stunning out in the daylight!

For those interested, here is the full spec list of my build:

• Frame and Handlebar: Frame size 500 with glossy raw carbon + crystal purple paintjob and handlebar with 380 mm x 80 mm
• Groupset: Shimano 105 Di2
• Crankset: Magene PES 515 (165 mm) with Magene Chainrings (52-36T)
• Bottom Bracket: TOKEN Ninja BB47V24
• Wheelset: EliteWheels ENT 2.0 Disc (50 mm Front & Rear)
• Tires: Continental GP 5000 (32 mm Front & Rear)
• Tubes: RideNow TPU
• Brake Discs: IIIPro (160 mm Front / 140 mm Rear)
• Saddle: LightCarbon SD01
• Pedals: Shimano PD-ES600
• Bar Tape: SUPACAZ Starfade Purple (2.5 mm)

Regarding common build notes: I haven't experienced any issues with a slipping seatpost. However, the latch on the down tube storage door did pop open once during my first ride. Luckily, I noticed it in time and managed to secure it before the door fell off completely.

Unfortunately, I also detected a major issue during that first outdoor test ride.

While taking some photos of the finished bike, I noticed a distinct mark/line on the right side of the top tube. I am completely baffled as to how this could have happened—I obviously haven't crashed (yet!) and the frame wasn't subjected to any impacts, drops as far as I know. I also obviously didn't clamp the top tube during the assembly.

The clear coat is split open and the line can be felt when running the finger over it.
When applying localized hand pressure, there is no excessive flexing (the tube still feels structurally firm).
But I also did the coin test and tapping along the tube sounds completely normal everywhere, except for that one specific grayish spot where the paint is gone. There, it emits a noticeably dull, muted thud.

I actually did another 2h test ride today after I have found the damage, and I didn't notice any issues, and the "crack" didn't seem to grow, but my confidence that the frame is safe is gone. This dead sound leads me to believe the carbon might actually be delaminated or cracked underneath, rather than it just being a cosmetic paint scratch.

I have already reached out to LightCarbon support to get their engineering team's assessment and discuss warranty/replacement options, but I would love to hear your thoughts. I think many of you know quite a bit more than me about carbon and could really help me determine the extent of that damage.

What do you guys think? Does this look like a structural failure to you?

Here is a Link to some high-res photos and a video of the area:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ZQ9Cr1hYwupFzodC7mv3nkZ7shksKPVc?usp=drive_link

Thanks in advance for your input!

I just received the pictures of my frame this week.
Placed the order on 15.03 and shipment should be done today, haven't received the tracking number yet though.

Quote from: Nopileus on September 14, 2025, 10:39:31 AM
I normally just do the backpedal a bit into the ride when temperatures have normalized somwhat, though i probably forget on as many rides as i do it.

In other news at some point the Magene app got an update and ever since it's been refusing to connect to the meter even though it's still paired.
Either they broke the app or they locked out china specific SKUs (got this from a cheap aliexpress seller so i might be).

I had the same issue with the app not connecting anymore.
Turns out, the model I bought was the chinese version (even though I purchased from the EU store).
I was able to connect to the powermeter again using the chinese version of the Magene Utility app.

Hey everyone,

I'm currently putting together a rain setup for bikepacking and would love some input from folks here. I'm mainly looking for lightweight options that pack down small, since space is quite limited.

1. Rain Jacket
What's your go-to compact rain jacket? I'd like something that fits easily into a jersey pocket or saddlebag but still holds up in sustained rain. It should also have a hood which goes over the helmet. Bonus points if it doesn't turn into a sauna after 10 minutes. I've seen some offerings from RockBros and Santic—any first-hand experiences with those?

2. Rain Pants - Long or Short?
Curious what people wear on the bottom during rain. Do you go full-length rain pants, or just stick with shorts and deal with wet legs? I'm debating if long pants are overkill, especially in warmer temps. I saw some lightweight overtrousers on Ali, but not sure if they're worth it for the occasional shower.

3. Shoe Covers
What are the best rain shoe covers out there that are actually waterproof and durable? Has anyone experience with the ones from YKWBIKE?

Hi everyone,

I'd like to confirm the compatibility of the Magene P515 powermeter crankset with my current bike setup and make sure I have all necessary tools and components before starting the installation.
I've never installed a powermeter or changed my crankset before, so I want to be sure that everything is compatible before I order it.

My current bike setup:
   •   Bike: Canyon Endurace CF SL 8.0 Disc (https://www.canyon.com/en-de/endurace-cf-sl-disc-8.0/2185.html?dwvar_2185_pv_rahmenfarbe=BK%2FGY&dwvar_2185_pv_rahmengroesse=S&history=1)
   •   Groupset: Shimano Ultegra R8000 (50/34 chainrings)
   •   Bottom bracket: Shimano Pressfit BB72 (PF86.5)
   •   Crankset: Shimano FC-R8000 (Hollowtech II (24 mm spindle)) (https://bike.shimano.com/en-NA/products/components/pdp.P-FC-R8000.html)

Magene PES 515 Info I've found:
   •   Comes with PES20 crank arms (24 mm steel spindle)
   •   Uses standard 110 mm 4-bolt BCD
   •   Magene offers its own QED chainrings, but I'd prefer to reuse my existing Ultegra R8000 chainrings if possible.

My main questions:
   1.   Is the Magene P515 crankset fully compatible with my bike (PF86.5 BB72, Ultegra R8000, 24 mm spindle)?
   2.   Can I reuse my existing Ultegra R8000 chainrings, or do I need to buy Magene's QED chainrings due to BCD differences (as Shimano's 110 BCD is asymmetrical (ChatGPT said that they are not compatible))?
   3.   Do I need to replace the bottom bracket, or can I use the existing one (it's running smoothly)?
   4.   Did I forget any essential tools or parts?

Tools I already own:
   •   Allen keys
   •   Torque wrench (up to 25 Nm)

Tools I think I still need to buy:
   •   Shimano TL-FC16 (for the preload cap)
   •   Chainring nut wrench (for removing/reinstalling chainrings)
   •   Threadlocker (Loctite 243) or grease for chainring bolts

I'm not planning to remove or replace the bottom bracket, so I assume I don't need tools like the Park Tool BBT-9 (for threaded BBs) or press-fit tools.
Any confirmation or corrections would be much appreciated. Thanks!