If you want something aero, and will use 30mm tyres then these are far too narrow.
If you want to use gravel tyres then they’ll probably not be aero on any rims so I’d concentrate your efforts towards the 30mm road setting.


There are absolutely tones of options for 25-26 internal wheels with wider external measurements which would be a much better fit and also offer some aero befit

Is it far too narrow?
I read of the 105% rule, which states that the external rim should be at least 105% of the tire width.
And the wheels I mentioned have an external width of 34mm, which is more than 105% of 30 mm.

Are there no downsides at all to have wider rims?

In regards to staggered setup, if you look what the established brands offer, it is the other way round with higher rim in the front as the front hits the air first. I have 45 Serenade wheels, 50 Ican and 60 Scribe - I enjoy the Serenade wheels the most. I often ride in windy conditions and they are the least impacted by crosswinds and are by far the lichtest which gives a snappy feeling and is loads of fun for short power bursts riding rolling hills.

Yes I've also heard that from an aerodynamic standpoint, deeper front wheels make more sense.
But I would have tought, that a shallower front wheel would reduce the impact from cross winds.
Which Serenade model do you have?

does the 949 include the handlebars and shipping? i got a much higher quote for a relatively similar paint

This was the price for the frame + handlebar + fork + painting but without shipping cost and bank fees.

Hi everyone,

I finally finished my very first bike build! Honestly, I was a bit nervous going into it, but everything actually went incredibly smoothly. I particularly want to shout out the Shimano manuals, they are incredibly detailed, easy to follow, and made the whole process a breeze for a first-timer.

In the end, the sizing feels absolutely spot on, and the overall ride quality is very good and comfortable. Plus, the custom paint job looks absolutely stunning out in the daylight!

For those interested, here is the full spec list of my build:

• Frame and Handlebar: Frame size 500 with glossy raw carbon + crystal purple paintjob and handlebar with 380 mm x 80 mm
• Groupset: Shimano 105 Di2
• Crankset: Magene PES 515 (165 mm) with Magene Chainrings (52-36T)
• Bottom Bracket: TOKEN Ninja BB47V24
• Wheelset: EliteWheels ENT 2.0 Disc (50 mm Front & Rear)
• Tires: Continental GP 5000 (32 mm Front & Rear)
• Tubes: RideNow TPU
• Brake Discs: IIIPro (160 mm Front / 140 mm Rear)
• Saddle: LightCarbon SD01
• Pedals: Shimano PD-ES600
• Bar Tape: SUPACAZ Starfade Purple (2.5 mm)

Regarding common build notes: I haven’t experienced any issues with a slipping seatpost. However, the latch on the down tube storage door did pop open once during my first ride. Luckily, I noticed it in time and managed to secure it before the door fell off completely.

Unfortunately, I also detected a major issue during that first outdoor test ride.

While taking some photos of the finished bike, I noticed a distinct mark/line on the right side of the top tube. I am completely baffled as to how this could have happened—I obviously haven't crashed (yet!) and the frame wasn't subjected to any impacts, drops as far as I know. I also obviously didn't clamp the top tube during the assembly.

The clear coat is split open and the line can be felt when running the finger over it.
When applying localized hand pressure, there is no excessive flexing (the tube still feels structurally firm).
But I also did the coin test and tapping along the tube sounds completely normal everywhere, except for that one specific grayish spot where the paint is gone. There, it emits a noticeably dull, muted thud.

I actually did another 2h test ride today after I have found the damage, and I didn't notice any issues, and the "crack" didn't seem to grow, but my confidence that the frame is safe is gone. This dead sound leads me to believe the carbon might actually be delaminated or cracked underneath, rather than it just being a cosmetic paint scratch.

I have already reached out to LightCarbon support to get their engineering team's assessment and discuss warranty/replacement options, but I would love to hear your thoughts. I think many of you know quite a bit more than me about carbon and could really help me determine the extent of that damage.

What do you guys think? Does this look like a structural failure to you?

Here is a Link to some high-res photos and a video of the area:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ZQ9Cr1hYwupFzodC7mv3nkZ7shksKPVc?usp=drive_link

Thanks in advance for your input!

I normally just do the backpedal a bit into the ride when temperatures have normalized somwhat, though i probably forget on as many rides as i do it.

In other news at some point the Magene app got an update and ever since it's been refusing to connect to the meter even though it's still paired.
Either they broke the app or they locked out china specific SKUs (got this from a cheap aliexpress seller so i might be).

I had the same issue with the app not connecting anymore.
Turns out, the model I bought was the chinese version (even though I purchased from the EU store).
I was able to connect to the powermeter again using the chinese version of the Magene Utility app.

Hi everyone,

I’d like to confirm the compatibility of the Magene P515 powermeter crankset with my current bike setup and make sure I have all necessary tools and components before starting the installation.
I've never installed a powermeter or changed my crankset before, so I want to be sure that everything is compatible before I order it.

My current bike setup:
   •   Bike: Canyon Endurace CF SL 8.0 Disc (https://www.canyon.com/en-de/endurace-cf-sl-disc-8.0/2185.html?dwvar_2185_pv_rahmenfarbe=BK%2FGY&dwvar_2185_pv_rahmengroesse=S&history=1)
   •   Groupset: Shimano Ultegra R8000 (50/34 chainrings)
   •   Bottom bracket: Shimano Pressfit BB72 (PF86.5)
   •   Crankset: Shimano FC-R8000 (Hollowtech II (24 mm spindle)) (https://bike.shimano.com/en-NA/products/components/pdp.P-FC-R8000.html)

Magene PES 515 Info I've found:
   •   Comes with PES20 crank arms (24 mm steel spindle)
   •   Uses standard 110 mm 4-bolt BCD
   •   Magene offers its own QED chainrings, but I’d prefer to reuse my existing Ultegra R8000 chainrings if possible.

My main questions:
   1.   Is the Magene P515 crankset fully compatible with my bike (PF86.5 BB72, Ultegra R8000, 24 mm spindle)?
   2.   Can I reuse my existing Ultegra R8000 chainrings, or do I need to buy Magene’s QED chainrings due to BCD differences (as Shimano’s 110 BCD is asymmetrical (ChatGPT said that they are not compatible))?
   3.   Do I need to replace the bottom bracket, or can I use the existing one (it’s running smoothly)?
   4.   Did I forget any essential tools or parts?

Tools I already own:
   •   Allen keys
   •   Torque wrench (up to 25 Nm)

Tools I think I still need to buy:
   •   Shimano TL-FC16 (for the preload cap)
   •   Chainring nut wrench (for removing/reinstalling chainrings)
   •   Threadlocker (Loctite 243) or grease for chainring bolts

I’m not planning to remove or replace the bottom bracket, so I assume I don’t need tools like the Park Tool BBT-9 (for threaded BBs) or press-fit tools.
Any confirmation or corrections would be much appreciated. Thanks!