If you don't want to go full-bore with a Chris King, the Cane Creek 40 does well on these and is what I have on my 057 build.

http://www.amazon.com/Cane-Creek-Integrated-Headset-Tapered/dp/B00G5RWKW8/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1449844380&sr=8-5&keywords=cane+creek+40+headset

Quote from: xcbarny on January 12, 2016, 04:18:04 PM
I'd actually have preferred an EBB with a BSA thread in it, so that I could fit my spare Chris King BB to it, but the only one I could find was by Niner, for a niner specific shell size.

100% agreed. I've already had to pull this one once, regrease it, and put it back in. Lots of snow/wet conditions over the past month...

Quote from: xcbarny on January 10, 2016, 06:41:58 PM
Good job. I hope to be building a Chiner SS soon using an Origin8 EBB. I just need a frame.

Enjoy, hit me up here if you have any questions.

I debated the Origin8 EBB vs. Beer EBB vs. Wheels EBB and the Wheels won out pretty quickly in every area except price. If you Google around, you'll find them cheaper than list price...I think mine was $85.

Rationale:

* Bearings. Origin8 uses mystery meat, but Wheels is up front about Enduro (quality) angular contact (better press system, less creaks)
* Bolts. Origin8 uses something tiny, maybe a 3 or 4mm head, and again doesn't specify. Wheels specifies M6 bolts and they have a 5mm head, so it's easy to get up to the necessary torque (7-9nm) without risking stripping them.
* Support. Can't find anything on Origin8's site, but Wheels has their instructions, torque specs, and warnings right up front. They also include multiple sets of bolts and shims to support the various BB shell widths.
* Seals. Couldn't see what the Origin8 used, but the Wheels showed external rubber seals that I can quickly slip off, clean, grease a bit, and slip back on (with crank removed).

Quote from: cmh on January 01, 2016, 09:11:49 PM

Quote from: Carbon_Dude on December 31, 2015, 06:03:58 AM

Quote from: timwa on December 31, 2015, 01:29:09 AM
Hi Carbon_Dude.  Yes I know the forks are designed for 160mm and you need the spacer to get to 203mm which I am already using.  But given that, why have niner then put on a limit of 185mm?  Are the 203mm too powerful for the forks? Or is there another reason?

Possibly Niner wants to limit the torque load on the fork to what a 180mm rotor can impart to the leg of the fork.  Having the larger 203mm rotor may have contributed to your initial failure.

+1 to all of this. Too large of a rotor for the fork.

I've never even seen anyone go beyond 160 on a rigid carbon fork. I did a bikepacking race this year with some steep technical stuff and ran a carbon Niner fork with mechanical brakes and didn't have any issues (on a metal bike loaded with camping gear and 100oz of water). With those (look to be) XTs you should be fine at 185, but I'm willing to bet even 160s would work.

I'm thinking it was a contributing factor as well - Niner forks are built sturdy as hell, I know several guys who have them and they all say the same thing - STIFF. If Niner is limiting rotor to 185mm on that fork, and you're a big guy adding 10% more braking force higher up on a Chinese fork, that might be an issue.

As a point of reference, I'm 6'3" and 220, more with riding gear and such, and I ran 203mm on my Rumblefish for a while, with a 185mm rear. After a while, I switched back to 185/160 (what came from the factory) and didn't notice any lack of stopping power. While the 203mm has numerically increased stopping power, it's not massively different, and I've had zero complaints about a 180/185mm front - and I never use more than one finger for braking. Pretty sure I could survive a 160/160 setup if I wanted to get weight weenie, which... yeah, no.

Without a maximum rotor size specified, it's not something you could have known unless you saw it elsewhere and knew to ask the question - so hopefully they'll still help you out, but you might wanna step down that rotor size at least one step.

Quote from: Carbon_Dude on December 31, 2015, 05:59:51 AM
Never had any problems with my threaded BSA BB

+1 to this. Given a choice, go BSA and the new XT. Given a choice and a fat wallet, go BSA and a Chris King....you'll never need to replace it if you maintain it.

Quote from: timwa on April 12, 2015, 08:16:24 AM
Only thing that is a little annoying is the internal cable routing (which was much easier to do than I expected) is setup backwards for us aussie builders.  The runs are to suit left hand drive countries where the brake levers are on the wrong sides. But it does work out ok.

I believe with Shimano hydros you can just disconnect the brake lines from the levers and reconnect each to the opposite lever.

Quote from: RS VR6 on December 30, 2015, 02:23:53 PM
Jenson has the Niner forks on sale for 250. QR only.

The Niner "RDO" version has 15mm through-axle. On sale for $299....I may have to make my wife mad at me, because this'd let me change my bike to a 19lb gravel racer.

http://www.jensonusa.com/Niner-RDO-Carbon-29-Fork

Hey folks,

This site was helpful in both researching frames and getting some questions answered so I wrote up a blog post on the whole bike at http://unweight.blogspot.com/2015/12/the-black-bike.html. It's not ultralight - I live and ride in a rough place - so it's built to be more fun and durable than weight-conscious.

Obligatory pic:



Summary:

• 22lb singlespeed hardtail with durable components, a dropper, wide bar/short stem, a 68-degree HT angle and a 120mm fork
  I can't speak for all the Chinese carbon frames (I wouldn't dare try the ultralight), but this one is legit, well made, easy to work with and the customer support was very good (Peter is the man!)
• If you get one of these frames, the first thing you should do is remove the rear dropouts and Loctite their bolts
• http://bit.ly/1VpJFzY - Spreadsheet with all parts and where to get them.

I have an existing set of Industry Nine trails. I'm 185lbs and live in a place that brakes bikes, so they're not weight weenie: 32h aluminum rims.

They're great hubs - if you ride anything technical, the 120-point engagement is amazing.

Also nice that they're made about five miles from my house.

http://www.industrynine.net/wheels/4/29%22+Trail

Quote from: Sitar_Ned on December 17, 2015, 08:04:28 AM
Yes. It was surprisingly easy. If I remember correctly, there isn't a sleeve on that side and the brake hose just needs to be fed through.

Either way, it fits and was easy. I didn't even need to bleed mine afterwards. Almost two years later and still have never bled a hydraulic brake.

Slick. Hopefully I'll get the hoses cut without accidentally incurring a bleed...

Quote from: Sitar_Ned on December 17, 2015, 08:04:28 AM
Welcome to the forum, btw.

Thanks!

Quote from: Sitar_Ned on December 17, 2015, 08:04:28 AM
Edit: After thinking about it.. If by sleeve you mean those thick clear plastic tubes then those come out right away.

Ahhh, ok. Watching some other internal systems, not all frames have "internal" sleeves that are permanently part of the frame. Instead, they come with "tubes" that you can use to run the cable through the frame, removing it afterwords and re-adding it to replace the cable.

Should have parts here next week, so I'll post pics when it all gets together.

Hey folks,

I've owned lots of bikes but an 057 frame that I'm building SS with a dropper will be my first internally routed one. The pictures on Peter's site (what an easy guy to deal with) show pre-installed sleeves for what look like derailleur and rear brake lines. I've researched using them a bit and am looking for some confirmation before things arrive and I build.

For the rear brake, is the install really as easy as just running the brake hose inside the sleeve, then removing the sleeve?

I'll be using the rear derailleur route for a dropper housing (external Thomson). I assume I run normal housing from the handlebar to the "in" port, then bare cable through the sleeve, remove the sleeve, and then housing to the seatpost? When housing terminates at the frame, is there a stop (can't quite see in the pics) where I just use a normal ferrule (plastic, since against carbon)?

For replacing cables (and hose), I assume I can just cut the cable/hose on both ends, slide the factory sleeve -back- over the cable/hose, tape it in place, remove the old cable/hose, and then install like new?

Thanks!