I'd actually have preferred an EBB with a BSA thread in it, so that I could fit my spare Chris King BB to it, but the only one I could find was by Niner, for a niner specific shell size.

Quote from: Carbon_Dude on December 31, 2015, 06:03:58 AM

Quote from: timwa on December 31, 2015, 01:29:09 AM

Hi Carbon_Dude.  Yes I know the forks are designed for 160mm and you need the spacer to get to 203mm which I am already using.  But given that, why have niner then put on a limit of 185mm?  Are the 203mm too powerful for the forks? Or is there another reason?

Possibly Niner wants to limit the torque load on the fork to what a 180mm rotor can impart to the leg of the fork.  Having the larger 203mm rotor may have contributed to your initial failure.

+1 to all of this. Too large of a rotor for the fork.

I've never even seen anyone go beyond 160 on a rigid carbon fork. I did a bikepacking race this year with some steep technical stuff and ran a carbon Niner fork with mechanical brakes and didn't have any issues (on a metal bike loaded with camping gear and 100oz of water). With those (look to be) XTs you should be fine at 185, but I'm willing to bet even 160s would work.

I'm thinking it was a contributing factor as well - Niner forks are built sturdy as hell, I know several guys who have them and they all say the same thing - STIFF. If Niner is limiting rotor to 185mm on that fork, and you're a big guy adding 10% more braking force higher up on a Chinese fork, that might be an issue.

As a point of reference, I'm 6'3" and 220, more with riding gear and such, and I ran 203mm on my Rumblefish for a while, with a 185mm rear. After a while, I switched back to 185/160 (what came from the factory) and didn't notice any lack of stopping power. While the 203mm has numerically increased stopping power, it's not massively different, and I've had zero complaints about a 180/185mm front - and I never use more than one finger for braking. Pretty sure I could survive a 160/160 setup if I wanted to get weight weenie, which... yeah, no.

Without a maximum rotor size specified, it's not something you could have known unless you saw it elsewhere and knew to ask the question - so hopefully they'll still help you out, but you might wanna step down that rotor size at least one step.

Only thing that is a little annoying is the internal cable routing (which was much easier to do than I expected) is setup backwards for us aussie builders.  The runs are to suit left hand drive countries where the brake levers are on the wrong sides. But it does work out ok.

• 22lb singlespeed hardtail with durable components, a dropper, wide bar/short stem, a 68-degree HT angle and a 120mm fork
  I can't speak for all the Chinese carbon frames (I wouldn't dare try the ultralight), but this one is legit, well made, easy to work with and the customer support was very good (Peter is the man!)
• If you get one of these frames, the first thing you should do is remove the rear dropouts and Loctite their bolts
• http://bit.ly/1VpJFzY - Spreadsheet with all parts and where to get them.

Yes. It was surprisingly easy. If I remember correctly, there isn't a sleeve on that side and the brake hose just needs to be fed through.

Either way, it fits and was easy. I didn't even need to bleed mine afterwards. Almost two years later and still have never bled a hydraulic brake.

Welcome to the forum, btw.

Edit: After thinking about it.. If by sleeve you mean those thick clear plastic tubes then those come out right away.