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Messages - klrdd

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1
This frame has been in the wild for a while, i got my local LLM to summarize the thread. For those interested, see attached.
Expect mistakes, it's one shot, 200k tokens. I read the whole thing, it feels correct enough.

pi --session 01a0908e-76fb-7730-abbd-b2911fbf1a52

generally reads pretty correct!

*aero*, *high-stack*, and *40–41 mm* tire clearance - quite the ask for your client!

2
Do you know the internal width of your rims? I'm tempted to try the Michelins, currently running Vittora N.EXT 34mm (25 WAM) on i23 rims but i'd prefer not to go any wider. Thinking of going for the 32mm michelins to keep the WAM down.

My 9velo rims have an IW of 24mm. Sticking w the 32s is probably a good bet. I liked the tires a lot-- affordable and resilient.

3
Long Term Long Teng update:

Currently at 4,970KM, will surpass 5000KM after a short afternoon spin tomorrow.

No problems at all with the bike since I built it up. I love it.

A few things I have changed:

Swapped to an ENVE Selle Italia Boost SLR 130, which fits me better and which, when slammed forward, is helping me rotate into and sustain the aero hoods position.
Swapped the 35mm Michelin Pro5 (37mm WAM) tires for 32mm Continental GP5000 S TR (33mm WAM). The fat tires were comfy and fast, but I am happy to drop the weight ~150g, and I think the GPs fit the bike better without much compromise. I am back on shit roads in New England, though, so I don't think I can afford to go skinnier. I think, despite the generous tire clearance, that the bike probably fits 30mm tires best--is designed around 28-30mm. I was getting toe overlap on the 35mm Michelins, and I think for big tires a slightly larger BB drop would be welcome.

I just got 165 cranks but haven't put them on yet. I'm on 170 currently but want to keep optimizing the trendy progressive fit and also open up the hip a bit as I'm dealing with some chronic hip mobility issues on one side from an old hip flexor injury on the squash court some 8 years ago  :P

Attaching a picture of the current setup.

4
My saddle height is 70cm, I have about a 31.5 inseam, is that close to you? Do you have issues with stand over height?

just want to jump in here to say I would definitely caution against an L frame if you're 175 cm with an 80cm inseam and 70cm saddle height. It sounds like @Takiyaki has quite unique proportions, so the advice might not transfer even if you're the same height. Size L is a standard 56 climby race frame, very close in measurements to the current supersix evo or bmc teammachine slr01 (just slightly shorter reach).

If you've been on a 52 tarmac, you're going to be adding ~37mm of frame stack, ~8mm frame reach, ~18mm to the Front-Center, and if i'm reading this correctly, you'd be going from a seat tube length of 456mm to 520mm (granted, top tube slope is different, but still).

So alongside the standover issue, you're just not going to have much exposed seatpost compared to what you had before, and the bike is already pretty stiff feeling.

Size M/54 might be the safer bet if you're looking to size up. Jumping 2 sizes might be a risky prop. and this bike is great, dont want you to regret it!

(I'm on 183cm, 88cm inseam (~34.5in), on a size L with 77cm saddle height and slammed 130mm+ stem..somewhat long arms and flexible, comfortable in a long and low position)

5
Thanks for your detailed feedback, Stephen — this is actually where I first came across it.

I guess this is exactly the value of real-world testing by end riders. Even though we do lab tests — impact tests, fatigue testing, stiffness measurements — how a wheel actually feels on the road is just as important. Plus, real riding often surfaces issues we missed, or new ones we hadn't considered.

Before we deliver the final products, all of this feedback helps make them more reliable. Either way, we'll always stand behind our products and take responsibility when something goes wrong.

the ai slop is not helping convince me to buy your products

Just resist the urge to send this sh*t, please. respect us.

6
I'm also a bit confounded by the geo, coming from a road background. 183cm, 76ish cm seat height -- ride a 56 road race frame with a slammed, long stem, but not sure how this progressive geo on gravel translates.. is the idea to go for a much shorter stem and have similar Reach+, to use the Canyon parlance?

7
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Zen Carbon Wheels Xiamen
« on: August 14, 2026, 04:27:02 PM »
Great job with this, although I think some specifications have some typos, like the gravel and sl steel's inner widths.

Just echoing this, here's a screenshot from the steel page.

8
Reviving this thread with this question:

I am looking to build a gravel bike with bikepacking potential for a friend who is 200cm tall. It seems like the Carbonda CFR707 is one of the few frames that has all the mounting points and also has a true XXL size with stack and reach that could work for someone 2 meters tall. Are there any more modern alternatives?

9
Hi, I am building up my frame and everything went pretty smoothly so far. Only thing I am not completely understanding yet, did everyone in this sub need to cut their steerer tube? I’ve got a FSA acr no55 LS headset, 40mm of spacers, and a 35mm high stem, and there is still like 25mm of steerer tube coming out of my XXL frame. I was assuming upfront that I wouldn’t need to cut my steerer, because it was an XXL frame and I have pretty high stack. Did everyone in this sub cut their steerer? I am wondering if I am doing something wrong as it’s my first bike build.

Yeah everyone cut their steerer. Personally, i did it twice -- once by a friend who has built scores of bikes, and then a second time by my local mechanic once I was sure i wanted it fully slammed.

10
Here are a few photos: is the gap too big? I’m currently using the original LTK bearings in the headset, so the fit at the bottom should be perfectly normal. Did you use an additional silver centering ring (see photo) on the steerer tube here? It came with the FSA No. 55 headset. At the top, I just installed the Lightcarbon C-ring, which causes the dust cap to stick out a bit. In the other photos, I’ve captured the specifications of the FSA bearings (bottom: TH MR127 1.5 36°x45° / 5; top: TH MR261A 1.5° ID42 45°x45°).


The expander was not yet installed in that state—there was no tension from above via the Ahead cap.

I'd like to help, but it's hard to tell what is going on with these various photos.
But a few things:
1) you don't need the crown race, whether LT-provided or in the FSA no55 set.
2) Did you ask Lightcarbon for FSA-matched dustcap and spacers? That's what I did with my Tavelo bars.
3) The FSA bearings just drop in on both sides. they seem loose, but as @Sakizashi said, they center and fit when preloaded.
4) Have you tried using the FSA bearings and FSA-provided C-ring with the Lightcarbon dustcap and spacers? what happens then? Specifically, when you actually preload this system. Do the gaps close up?

If you could answer some of those questions and maybe label the photos, perhaps we can help figure it out

11
Ordered a Large, in "transparent blue" may 23.
Shipped about a week later, and recieved it yesterday, so just over 2 weeks.
Built up today with a mix ultegra/dura ace, ztto 11-34, x260 crank, DFS 60/60mm wheels and pirelli SL-R 30mm, (heavy) 130mm enve aero stem and enve aero 37/42 handlebar.
Weight is about 6.7kg as shown inc pedals, aero bottle cages, computer mount.

Build was quite straight forward. No issues, but I might have to flatten the brake mounts, because brakes was screaming when I tested it in the yard.
Taking it for a ride tonight.

Best color so far... Kinda jealous!

12






great build. Could you specify the exact model number of the Heppe thru axles you used? I'm looking to upgrade mine... No problems with the ones supplied by LT, just as others have noted they don't match the build quality of the frame.

13
If you're getting the LTK266-D-SL and moving a SRAM Red groupset onto the bike, you really don't need to weight weenie as hard with the handlebars or the wheels if you goal is just sub 7. Different if you want sub 6.8 or 6.5. For the handlebars anything under 350g, really -- which means you won't have to sacrifice stiffness. Same for wheels, you can get cx-ray steel spokes and moderate depth-- shoot for anything under 1300g. Especially if you plan to run standard 28-32mm race tires.

14
Hey guys, I've ordered this frame and am building with Ultegra 12s Di2. Haven't ordered tires yet.
I know the frame can fit rather wide tires but I heard wide tires could hit the front derailleur.
What's the max width tires that's been tried for this frame whilst using shimano 2x groupset?
I was hoping to use Pirelli p zero race rs 700x35 on a 25mm ID rim. I think that could get up to a 37mm mounted width.

You'll be fine with those pirellis. I run 35mm michelin pro 5 tires on 24mm internal width rims, which measure around 36.5, and they're nowhere near my front derailleur. I have SRAM but the clearance is the same as Shimano. Can get a 5mm allen key all around the back tire.

15
Here's a shot of I don't think I have shared yet, from last fall, of the LTK266-D-SL with Tavelo Avro bars (130mm stem, 380mm width bars at the hoods). This is with FSA no 55 and the comparible spacers from Tavelo (via Panda Podium). It is slammed.

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