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Messages - maui400

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1
Ok, that make sense. I will report back if the issue further exists with the new ratchet.

2
Wow, that's interesting. I will have a look at ZTTOs ratchet. But for now Goldix is sending me a new ratchet to try.

3
Well, they way I see it, you ain't got much to lose...

I depends. If the issue comes from somewhere else, I might have to get a new ratchet unit in order to obtain the spring.

4
Or maybe you could try to stretch the spring a little, so it will put more force on the assembly

That also came into my mind. I'm just afraid to bend it too much on one side and make it even worse that way.

5
Hi guys,
I have the Goldix EXP 240 MTB hubs (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003014289678.html) for 4 months now. I rode the in the bike park in heavy rain. Even after doing some pressure cleaning - No problems. While maintaining all other parts I also checked the inside of my rear hub. As mentioned all looked pretty decent. The last days I rode my bike again. Uphill, no big deal. But just at the end of the trail the moving ratchet must have gotten stuck somehow. My first pedal stroke at the bottom of the trail went into the void. Also the hub went dead silent when coasting. No engagement at all. Not even slipping/skipping teeth.
The issue seemed to have been fixed easily by removing and reattaching the freehub body. The sound was slightly different though. Back home I took the hub apart, cleaned everything thoroughly  and used only a very thin coating of grease plus a few drops of Fox 20WT Gold. The sound was became super loud but crisp after reassembly.
Today I went for a test spin. Uphill again no problem, even with some hard cranking. Happily I went into some fairly rocky, but fast trail. Again just before the end at full speed my bike suddenly became dead quite. I directly knew that the freehub ratchets got disengaged again. No pedaling possible. Again I just pulled the cassette , including the freehub body off the rear hub and reattached it. The ratchets had contact again.

This is so weird. I think the moving part of the ratchet is being pushed into a jammed position being unable to return. My guess is that either the moving ratchet part is being held back by sticky grease (unlikely) and the spring is too weak to push it loose. Or the "rail teeth" of the moving part get locket up with the rails of the freehub body. Also strange because I cleaned everything and regreased all with 20WT Gold in the first place. And the parts also don't seem to look worn.

Did anyone experience some similar issue or has an idea how to fix that?

6
Looks kaputt already.  ;D

8
The 58 is huge though, do you need the extra toe clearance?

No, my toes are luckily not that long.  ;D I calculated that with >620mm of BB to front axle I should be on the save side. Size 56 is actually perfect regarding body position (apart from the seatpost). My next concern is that I would like to fit my full frame bag into the triangle which would need min 45cm of vertical space. Too bad that many frames are having lower top tubes now.

Nice, I tried to get them to do measurements with no luck. Yeah maybe the best option is to go for a nominally smaller tire with the really wide rim :D.
They didn't answer your question? I actually asked two different contacts, because the first answer got stuck in my spam folder. The first answer was 60mm in fact. But this sounded a bit unrealistic for a 45mm frame set.
Yes, I think with such a big inner width tires might blow up to the next tire with. The 44mm Tufo could increase it's width by 3mm already. But I would wait until the frame is in your hands to measure the real clearance.

9
Yes, I've seen these LB rims. As the huge Nextie Rims they are a bit on the expensive side. So I was looking for sth. more reasonable.
May I ask how tall you are? I'm undecided between 56 and 58. I'm 6.0ft (184/88cm).

Btw. They measured the internal fork with for me which is supposed to be 53mm. I didn't ask about the rear clearance. But since the frame has a dropped chainstay 48mm could fit (But with the nextie rims ... I'm not so sure  ;D).

10
I pulled the trigger, and bought a Chameleon one in size 56. Really excited about it. Going to build it up with 11 sp mechanical Ultegra, and hoping to fit 50/34 chainrings on there. It's going to be my do-it-all bike with a road and a gravel wheelset.
 Unfortunately, it won't show up for another 2 months  :( (EU preorder for June 30).

A few things:

1) The reason it has similar geo to the BXT and Nextie, is that all 3 are very heavily "inspired" by the Scott Addict Gravel. That's also why I'm hoping 50/34 will fit, since that fits on the Scott.

2) When it comes to the setback, what matters is that we can achieve our preferred saddle position relative to the BB. This in turn can be determined from just 2 factors: The seat tube angle and the setback relative to the line through the bottom bracket. The reason the setback looks big is that the seat tube is shifted forward relative to the BB as seen by the blue line.

i) My current bike has a STA of 73.5 instead of 73 on the Graro. That results in shifting the saddle back roughly 5mm at my saddle height, relative to my current bike.
ii) My current bike has a setback of maybe 5mm, (round seatpost centered on the BB). This means another net 15-5 mm = 10mm setback.
iii) However, the clamp that holds the saddle rails is also much smaller on the Graro, which gives a bit of leeway the other way (roughly 7mm by my estimation).


I've concluded that I can easily achieve my current saddle position, even without slamming the saddle all the way forward.

Will definitely post a lot of measurements related to tire clearance, chainring clearance etc when I receive the frame!

Great you did it! Actually I have the same plan with my future bike - to replace my gravel and road and just have one dropbar bike with two wheelsets in the garage. Do you already have an idea for your wheelsets? I was thinking about road rims with 32mm external and about 23-25mm internal to run 30mm upfront and 32mm in the rear. I just haven't found rims with 32mm outer. These are my current options:
- https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006062147755.html
- https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006639888848.html
Hubs: Goldix R180SL (super light - durability?)
As for the gravels my rim choice might be 36mm outer and 30mm internal: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006427795061.html
Hubs: Goldix R240SL (super light - more durable??)

You guy are certainly correct with the saddle offset. My current Velobuild GF-001 has an STA of 72.5° plus setback seatpost, which is kinda stupid, since the geo was cloned from the OPEN U.P., but the OPEN has a straight seatpost. Anyways, My saddle is slammed all the way to the front. Okay, maybe 10mm are left. I'm using a Fabric Line which has really long rails, but I already have some ali 3D saddle which will not have as much room to play. I will have to do some more calculations. Do you guys have a recommendation for a good seating position calculator?

11



"Seat Post
 ROSE, 8 mm offset 400mm"  :o

Now ICANs specs seem to be a lot more realistic ...

You may wonder why I am still sneaking around this frame. Well I really like it and I guess the quality is quite good. Plus with this frame I won't be scared of toe overlap.  ;)
Currently I am undecided whether to take this frame an hope my saddle can be moved forward enough - or the YFR068 in L or XL. But the QA issues scare me off and that I seem to be between the two sizes.

12
Could be, but I'm not sure about this logic. Then a 0mm setback post would be around +10mm in direction of the head tube. And what about seat posts you can buy separately? They don't have a frame as reference, but still have a defined setback.

Edit: Regarding your theory the setback will be dependent from seat height for bent seat tubes.

13
Given a STA of 73, that results in a horizontal setback of 15.68. So not a big difference, assuming I got the trig right.
Eyeballing the drawing, we're losing another 10mm relative to the center of the seat tube though.

I noticed that the Nextie G2 has the exact same geometry: https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=648f566fec82fc001a96df32,65c2a0c6a244e9001aeae09c,
except for 10mm longer chainstays.

Yeah, the Nextie G2 is the same as the BXT 135 in which I was also interested - before I read about experiences with them. The frame has also 2mm wider tire clearance which goes for me into the wrong direction as I want max 40mm plus optional 30mm tires. But yes, given the quality of the G2 is good it should be a great alternative.

Regarding your maths. That's true, but I still don't know what the blue line is referring to. It seems so randomly placed. But since it is far from the center of the seat post the real setback could be indeed ~25mm.  :-\ No one caring about geo would buy this frame. Too bad since I really would have liked it.  :(

14
Here is a drawing of the seatpost. It really seems to be just -15mm.

Edit: But wait ... now that I see the image a second time, I wonder where the blue reference line is.

15
Hmm. My experience is from BB30 but I am not alone. I have CAAD 10 and SSE2 both from 2014-15 timeframe. The CAAD came with squeaking bb when I bought it last year. Punched out the bearings and installed new (Wheels Manufacturing ABEC-5) and after a couple of months they started squeaking. I haven't changed it to thread together yet so I clean and lubricate every time squeaking returns. The SSE has Token thread together BB on it and it works fine. Its still technically press fit but I like the idea of two cups attaching to themselves than just latching onto frame.

The problem with BB30 and BB30a bb shells is there is no traditional bottom bracket as such - its just bearings pressed in and a c-ring prevents them from going all the way in. Those bearings, c-rings, and two cups/reducers to space out crankarms form a bottom bracket. If Loctite is used it will be around the bearings directly and if it bonds the bearings to frame, its frame dump the next time bearings need changing. Loctite is a big no there. Same thing with Trek's BB90.

When you say I use good quality BB with replaceable bearings, are you talking about BB386/PF30?

You're right. I was thinking about pressfit bbs with shells. I would not buy a frame with BB30. SRAM went away from this standard pretty quickly it seems.

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