The test here is... does it spin without hitting the frame? On my Ican FL1 with the new P515 the meter was just barely touching when I adjusted the preload... so I added a very thin shim which moved over the meter about 0.1mm (one of those wavey washers would be perfect) and problem solved.

2nd thing you want to look at is if the chainline is lined up. basically the center of the front chainring should line up with the center of the cluster.. a tiny bit off, thing will work, significantly off shifting gets wonky. but using normal components.. everything should work right. which is why adding excessive shims will push the chainline off.

Put it all together and see if the crank moves freely or if it is rubbing on the frame. From the picture it isn't what will happen when it is assembled.
The FD probably will handle move over 1mm.. but that may be push the whole chain line a bit off center.. so keep the shims as small as possible

I’ve seen some recent photos and videos that suggest Magene may already be moving in this direction or at least testing the waters. It raises some interesting questions about how established brands are challenged, how quickly newer players can level up, and what really matters at the WorldTour level.

Curious to hear people’s thoughts on whether Magene belongs on the WorldTour stage or what are they missing to take that next step.

Both XDS and Magene are mostly focused on the Chinese market. I know XDS markets in a few locations outside of China - but their main market is China. Same thing with Magene and they apparently want their name seen on the WT - but mostly for Chinese marketing - at least now.

There have also been questions or disappointment that the power meters aren't part of the sponsorship. I suspect that Astana is not exactly ready to antagonize Shimano by creating a mixed drivetrain. I can slap a Magene meter on my bike with Shimano rings and it will work just fine - but it still doesn't look perfect. Good enough for enthusiasts, not quite right on stage.

Overall it is good that they are starting to step up to the top levels

Finally got everything assembled and out for the first ride.
If I had been paying a bit more attention when I ordered.. I would have noticed that it was quoted with an in-line seatpost and to copy my seating position I needed an offset. no big deal just one more order and now everything fits nicely. Took a short 25 km trip and came back with a real big smile.

I wouldn't go so far as saying all chains on Ali are fake. I have bought a few shimano (with more than a 1000 km each) and KMC (just recieved but look correct)  chains with no problems at all. BUT I also would only buy from one of the known bike stores on Ali.. and as always, your mileage may vary. 

For the mechanical... I assume you ran 1 cable housing the whole way from shifters to derailleur front and back? The other bikes all have some sort of cable stop both in front and back. looks like the rubber plugs might be a bit small for a housing especially in the front probably more for Di2 wire than a housing but that shouldn't be a major issue (maybe soft rubber?) didn't really take a look yet.

Must be the frame : unscrewed the front derailleur plate and the carbon seems sunken

That looks more like they flattened the tube for better stability. if you look at the FD holder, it probably will be flat to match the flat location on the tube...

Has this set up ever worked? or are you just trying to get it set up now?
what Crank set are you using?
Here is how I would go about trouble shooting find out how far the derailleur will move. (back off the limit screws) does it actually move far enough and properly (make sure there isn't a mechanical problem with the motion(

what about the crankset? is is centered on the bike (check distance of crank arms to center of bike)
Are there spacers shifting the location of the crank?
centerline of the front gears should match the centerline of rear gears.
If the crankset is shifted to far out on the gear side the FD won't reach properly... if so are there spacers on the gear side - move them to the opposite side (if actually needed)
Is the bottom bracket the correct size? - even if it is the correct size there are variations just to make us all crazy...

The FD is pretty simple... if the gears are in the correct location and FD aligned it should at least give some sort of decent results.

Well I think maybe the hardest part of buying a bike site un-seen.. would be trying to figure out what size... so sanity check.
I am currently riding an ANCIENT 40 year old Trek 560 (I bought it new in HS and have put enough miles and kilometers on to wear out all of the original mechanical bits) and of course ancient geometry / modern geometry are not quite the same.

So.... I am looking at a Ican FL1 and trying to decide on size....
My Trek is a 19" frame. with an 80mm stem and a compact (short reach) Zipp Service course handlebar (the reach on this handle bar is shorter than most) when I put a 90mm stem on I felt a bit "stretched" so current length is about right. Only thing I don't really like is step over height could be a bit lower. Also, seat and handlebars are currently almost level (oh bike geometry has changed over the last 40 years!)


If I compare my 19" to an Ican FL1 49.. stack is higher   (good) reach is shorter (but maybe to short?) and it will clearly far more seatpost sticking out - currently I have 14.5cm from the top tube to seat level.  so ignoring seat tube angle etc... this would put the seat about 19cm above the frame - so not silly out of proportion. I think a 90mm stem and "normal" reach handlebar would put total reach about where I need it.
https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=604651db68c697001716891e,66ce3bac59fab20020b5f33e,


still my question is.... assuming my old frame is basically the correct size (other than step over...which is just on the limit) is the 49 frame to small? should I really be looking at the next size up (52)

https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=604651db68c697001716891e,66ce3bac59fab20020b5f33f,

My concern is that the 52 will force me to use a silly short stem again (especially with a less compact handlebar which will add reach)

Any comments or thoughts appreciated