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Hey guys. We have been told bike drops in November. It is indeed udh and has a t47 bb.Hi Is there any real image of the frame even if it is a prototype?
Happy riding everyone.
I would slow down on the changes and make them one at a time. I am not a fan of midfoot cleats and therefore not well-versed in the adjustments required as a result, but you are going all in on an Ironman-style bike fit.Would´nt that forward cleat position increase knee stress and so knee pain? Because in that position the feet would be more backward compared to the knee than with a backward cleat position. Am I correct?
Purely from a motion diagram perspective, a typical rider's kinetic chain extends up to their lumbar spine--maybe up to the thoracic spine when out of the saddle. Assuming perfectly rigid shoes, midfoot isolates/reduces stress on the lower parts of that chain, shifting work upward. That alone makes the quad do more work. It also removes from consideration a bunch of potential solutions to balancing your pedaling effort across more of your body.
Closing the hip angle and increasing the distance the upper leg travels during the stroke both tend to increase glute recruitment, but this doesn't really map to saddle lower vs. higher if you are already opening the hip angle via a forward position. Your ankles also affect the overall distance the upper leg can travel. By switching to midfoot, you also limit ankling's potential contribution to upper-leg movement.
IMO, most non-triathletes should be using their calves as much as they can if they want more glute recruitment (it's better for your knees too!), as it gives you more freedom to find a fit that works across more of your kinetic chain. If you have really developed calves, a good cleat position is probably close to the ball of the foot; if you don't, it's probably about ~10 mm behind. Experimentally, I would move them forward till you can feel it on long rides, and then move them back slowly until calf soreness isn't an issue.
My bike hasn't arrived yet, but from what I read there's a newer version of the seatpost with a rough surface on the bottom part that should prevent slipping.
Also (on the older seatpost..?) people used some kind of shim to stop it from slipping like it's shown in patrick lino's video.
Another cause could be the seatpost clamp partly wedging itself against the frame and a user suggested lubricating only the parts (sides?) sitting against the frame to make sure it applies full clamping force against the seatpost.
Can't describe that last one better since I only read about it myself.
I don’t know if this question was for me but..Did you install the seatpost wedge with wider and roughter texture or the standard one because mine came with two different ones?
First ride done, no major issues other than the seatpost slipping but I didn’t apply carbon paste yet so I did now.
I was happy with the comfort of the bike, because after a few years only 40mm+ tyres I was a little bit scared for a harsh ride but I was surprised even with the 30mm tyres and carbon spokes.
Other than that I don’t know what to report can’t really comment on the layup it felt fine I guessnot too stif or flexible.
I don't think the new frame makes that big of a difference. In the end, it's round about 130 grams lighter.I dont think weight is the difference. I am curious to see if frame feels different from the use of T1000 which if they have done correct layup could improve the feel.
My bike is soon ready now. Going to put on a golden chain tooWhats the tire clearance with front derailleur because it looks really tight between back wheel?(thanks for the idea, Tobi!)
Just waiting for new Di2 junction box and going to have the LBS bleed brakes and install bottom bracket.
Think I’ll try it out at least before deciding on selling.
However, since I can’t train properly, the TT-bars seem kind of pointless. They are also ugly, makes it look like a real TT bike almost.
A very keen eye and memory you have. I am both impressed and flattered you remembered. SALUTE!I have similar problems and i have been riding since 16 so body gets used to asymmetry. I also have gone to bikefits and they have caused pain and discomfort more than anything else.
This sounds strange but I actually find satisfaction in tinkering with my bike fit. Almost as much as building bikes. And I always use masking tape markings and record all measurements before making tweaks. My logic is I wont know my absolute optimal bike fit unless I experiment. But I don't touch my primary bikes. For the off-season I'm going to do a full reset from scratch and just play around with every single variable.
My body is a disaster. Not only do I have collapsed foot arches which are totally flat, I have skinny heels and a very high instep. So my inward pedaling style has me occasionally rubbing both the top tube and seat post. Add to the fact my right leg is shorter by about 5-6mm due to a basketball injury, I've gotten accustomed to asymmetry on the bike. No saddle sores or knee pain. Just asymmetry. Gotta love insoles and wedges. Never mind my long arms, femurs, and super short torso.
I've gone to two professional bike fitters. One said I need an even longer reach. The other said I need to move my saddle forward. Both have said my body has a particularly easy ability to adjust to extreme and suboptimal fits. Whatever that means. At this point I'd rather just do it myself with a turbo trainer and a camera. I am super jealous of anyone with a smooth and symmetrical pedaling style.
Perhaps the Factor One might be my solution
Just got a Magene P515 165mm crankset for 205€ shipping includedWhere did you get it?
595 g only
Why would you buy unreliable brands ?
