There are really smart guys here like Toxin and others that could for sure make pretty well engineered bikes and i 100% have same problems as @patliean1 has said. The main problem to develop new bike from zero wouldnt be the design because there are really smart guys here but getting some reliable factory in Asia for manufacturing. Maybe china.bikes could help finding one or someone in contact with asian brands

In my view it could be possible but need guys willing to put time into it (by the way i also agree that not going 100 % UCI would open up for some really interesting designs). I would like road and go all out for performance of the bike + rider unlike most brand do with bike only.

I have also got this creaking noise and its getting more often. Before it used to creak only when out of the saddle but now it starts creaking at 300+ watts. My mechanic has checked everything and it is at torque spec. Is there any solution or should i go warranty?

Has anyone else got bb creaking noise when putting power out of the saddle? What could it be?

Watching how good XMCS is going as a brand and the extremely high quality and development trust. Has Peter thought of making in the future a TT / aggressive convertible road bike going all out aero? @Requiem84

I really like the look of the frame but probably the lack of bar/ stem combinations will put me off. Like having only 5 sizes and the
infeasibility of installing normal stem / handlebar makes it probably not the optimal bike for almost everyone because you are locked with one width and lenght.

Quote from: Underdogscycling on September 11, 2026, 04:57:21 PM
Hey guys. We have been told bike drops in November. It is indeed udh and has a t47 bb.

Happy riding everyone.

Hi Is there any real image of the frame even if it is a prototype?

I would definately buy it if it had 10 mm more reach and wheelbase at the bigger sizes and 74 or 75 degree SA on the L or XL. Optionally 75 mm BB drop or even 77

Quote from: Sakizashi on September 09, 2026, 11:14:01 AM
I would slow down on the changes and make them one at a time. I am not a fan of midfoot cleats and therefore not well-versed in the adjustments required as a result, but you are going all in on an Ironman-style bike fit.

Purely from a motion diagram perspective, a typical rider's kinetic chain extends up to their lumbar spine--maybe up to the thoracic spine when out of the saddle. Assuming perfectly rigid shoes, midfoot isolates/reduces stress on the lower parts of that chain, shifting work upward. That alone makes the quad do more work. It also removes from consideration a bunch of potential solutions to balancing your pedaling effort across more of your body.

Closing the hip angle and increasing the distance the upper leg travels during the stroke both tend to increase glute recruitment, but this doesn't really map to saddle lower vs. higher if you are already opening the hip angle via a forward position. Your ankles also affect the overall distance the upper leg can travel. By switching to midfoot, you also limit ankling's potential contribution to upper-leg movement.

IMO, most non-triathletes should be using their calves as much as they can if they want more glute recruitment (it's better for your knees too!), as it gives you more freedom to find a fit that works across more of your kinetic chain. If you have really developed calves, a good cleat position is probably close to the ball of the foot; if you don't, it's probably about ~10 mm behind. Experimentally, I would move them forward till you can feel it on long rides, and then move them back slowly until calf soreness isn't an issue.

Would´nt that forward cleat position increase knee stress and so knee pain? Because in that position the feet would be more backward compared to the knee than with a backward cleat position. Am I correct?

Quote from: FrostedDyslexia on August 27, 2026, 01:40:04 PM
My bike hasn't arrived yet, but from what I read there's a newer version of the seatpost with a rough surface on the bottom part that should prevent slipping.

Also (on the older seatpost..?) people used some kind of shim to stop it from slipping like it's shown in patrick lino's video.

Another cause could be the seatpost clamp partly wedging itself against the frame and a user suggested lubricating only the parts (sides?) sitting against the frame to make sure it applies full clamping force against the seatpost.

Can't describe that last one better since I only read about it myself.

I am in the new version but i have got two seatpost clamps one with rougher surface (where the seatpost is in contact with the clamp) than the other one so i dont really know which one i should use

Has anyone else has got seatpost creaking when pushing it up and down and also seatpost slipping and if so how did you solve it ?

Quote from: Ghandy on August 11, 2026, 07:30:22 AM
I don't know if this question was for me but..

First ride done, no major issues other than the seatpost slipping but I didn't apply carbon paste yet so I did now.
I was happy with the comfort of the bike, because after a few years only 40mm+ tyres I was a little bit scared for a harsh ride but I was surprised even with the 30mm tyres and carbon spokes.
Other than that I don't know what to report can't really comment on the layup it felt fine I guess  not too stif or flexible.

Did you install the seatpost wedge with wider and roughter texture or the standard one because mine came with two different ones?

I dont know if its been  talked but are there any 160 mm cranks with reliable powermeter (like magene p515) under 350 euros?

Is there any image of the frame with the new forks apart from the ones of Velobuild?

How long did wheels take you since they are ordered to when they are shipped?

Quote from: Tobi on June 25, 2026, 03:18:57 AM
I don't think the new frame makes that big of a difference. In the end, it's round about 130 grams lighter. 

I dont think weight is the difference. I am curious to see if frame feels different from the use of T1000 which if they have done correct layup could improve the feel.