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Messages - CyclesNoir

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1
A lot of words to say you don’t know nothing about T-Type Derailleurs.
I don’t want to be salty but it’s impressive to see some people in this thread with ZERO knowledge trying to explain / solve problems. Please educate yourself before doing it with others. It’s dangerous. (And no, this not only addresses you)

To solve the problem:
- measure the width of the frame and compare it to sram specifications
- check the SRAM T Type Videos. They are very helpful.
- if you got another UDH frame, compare it to the LC.
- did you torque it to specific torque?
- the plastic insert/washer is installed correctly and the silver part of the derailleur is perfectly fine.
- if the frame is not wide enough I would try to install washers. BUT this can cause problems and may result in failures. Personally I’d go with washers on both sides until everything sits flush.
- do you got an original UDH dropout? Try to install that and compare it to the Derailleur.
- UDH is a standard. You either use a UDH Dropout to use a non Direct Mount Derailleur OR a Direct mount derailleur.
- there should not be a crack - T-Types sit flush on frame and washer. No matter if it’s MTB (GX, XX) or XPLR 13spd

My frame should arrive next week. I can check XPLR 13 Speeds, MTB T-Type and various UDH Dropouts. Also I can compare it to different UDH Frames and send these exact measure of dropouts.

Yes, yes you are being salty!  Various UDH is a contradiction in terms.  Either a dropout is UDH, or it is not. 

If you think I'm factually wrong, in any part of what I've said, instead of talking like a walking penis, you educate all of us with better information.  So, Salty, yes.

Have you got any good information, or are you just blowing snot?

2
Even after tightening my SRAM XPLR derailleur, I can still move the right chainstay 🫣
Does anyone else have this problem?

I don't have that problem with my (not SRAM) derailleur. 
1) It looks like you haven't a cassette installed yet, but that is the axle end of your rear hub, yes? 
2) The silver bit on the inside of the dropout looks poorly machined - note how uneven the serrations are.  I'm not sure I'd be quick to trust its trueness to spec.
3) Having no experience with UDH, the fit of my hanger seemed too tight at first go.  Research on the subject explained that was necessary to prevent forward rotation of the derailleur except in the case of an accident.  So I torqued to spec and the the mount fit perfectly into the frame.  I was using the UDH hanger from LightCarbon which I think is a very nicely engineered and manufactured part.  I trust its specs.  BTW it only weighs 20gm, confirmed on two examples, each on two different scales.
4) Is XPLR a direct mount derailleur (that is, not a UDH derailleur)?  Are you using a SRAM conversion mount to make XPLR work on a UDH frame?  If torquing to spec doesn't fix your problem, I'd go back to the mfg of you hanger and seek help from them.

3
What size would people recommend for someone 169cm tall and 73cm inseam? I'm guessing 52? Trying to get a frame for my girlfriend but it'll be her first road bike. We had tried out the Fuji Transonic 2.1 in 54cm that seemed to fit pretty well, and it seems like the LCR018 in 52 is pretty close.

Lots of people ask this kind of question.  But any answer isn't better than no answer.  And many people will be reluctant to advise you based on the information provided.  A couple of things to keep in mind when figuring out her fit:
- A 54 is not a 54 is not a 54.  Depending on the brand (assuming they even use numeric sizing) a given seat-tube length may refer to different things.  Some folks measure the seat tube at its top, or at the top of where the top-tube joins the seat-tube, or at where the center-line of the top-tube joins the seat-tube.  In the past it was easier because (essentially) all top-tube were horizontal, and frame sizes were available in 1 or 2cm increments.  Now days, particularly with the cost of molds, fewer sizes are typically available, typically leaving us with more difference between sizes and and a narrower range from small to large.
- Lots of people like to fit using stack and reach, but these are measured from the BB and ignore the angles of the seat and head tubes.  So this doesn't directly correlate to how ones body is configured.  But it hints at one of the key factors to basic fit: the relationship between the length the riders legs and the length of their torso varies. 
- This means that leg length and height aren't sufficient to fit your girlfriend. If you find a bike with a position that is comfortable for her, its  possible to work backwards by measuring from the bars to the seat; and center of the saddle to center of the handlebar.
- Also of concern is the rider's flexibility, both physical and mental.  Some riders, even new riders, are comfortable down low like a time-trialist, right from the start.  Others will never get into that position.  And many will start more upright and work their way lower with experience and training.

Someone on a forum won't know as well as you your girlfriends physical abilities and goals for purchasing a road bike.  Try going back to a bike shop, and see what feels good for her.  Then measure saddle height, saddle to handlebar reach, and drop from the top of the saddle to the top of the handlebars.  Those are working measures that will get you off on the right foot. 

The LCR018 has some flexibility for fitting (perhaps you've already noticed) including 0mm and 15mm setbacks for the seat(post) and a wide range of available handlebar width/(stem)lengths for an integrated handlebar.  So if you have her in the right size, there are a good range of options to fine tune it for her.

Good Luck!

4
The box arrived last Wednesday.  As of today, I still need to trim the fork and brake lines, connect brake lines to the drifters and bleed same, wrap the handlebars, and calibrate the derailleurs. 

Build includes: Wheeltop EDS TX group; Magene PES powermeter crank; 105 11spd 11x34 cassette; KMC chain; old Look Keo pedals; mid-range carbon gravel wheels from LightCarbon/Pro-X; 30mm Vittoria Corsa Pro tube-type tires (until I decide on something wider), Baent TPU tubes, an Aspide saddle copy (don't know yet if it'll be comfortable); a carbon bottle cage; stock seat-post, handlebars & computer mount.  First time using electronic shifting - still not sure if that's the direction I'll go long term (I have too many devices to charge as it is). 

With the storage cover installed, no computer, tools, spares, water bottle, in a 56cm, weight comes at 8.1kg.  Trimming the seat-post and adding bar tape should wash, so this is probably the correct long-term weight, with which I'm quite satisfied.  I imagine a lighter group, crankset, and wheels could drop 0.5kg and still be reliable under my weight (85kg).  I doubt I'll explore that, however, because that's a lot of money for less that the weight of a second water bottle. 

Anyhow, it didn't happen. without pictures, eh:.


5
Has anyone that has ordered a 58 frame received any shipping notice?

My frame was to be sent around the 10th of November, but haven’t gotten any updates yet.

Shipping time varies based on your location.

I'm in the US.  I was told mine (56cm) would ship on a Monday and that I'd get the tracking number on Wednesday.  I emailed Wednesday (knowing they're busy this time of year) and got my tracking number right back.  Seven AM the following Wed (9 days from ship date, 7 days from tracking number) FedEx notified me that they had my package, and they dropped it off that afternoon.  So it looks to me like the tracking number doesn't really work (at least in the US) until the in country shipper receives the package.

Anyhow, no reason not to email your sales rep. and ask for an update.

6
Anyone play with mounting the CF computer mount?  I'm running into a few issues with same. 

1) Screws aren't long enough to connect a mount on both the top and bottom sides.  2) The three screw holes on the base of the adjustable camera/light/other mount don't align with the holes on the CF mount (that is the main bar).  The middle hole is too far forward.  So even if the screws were longer, there doesn't seem to be a way to mount my light and the computer

Has anyone else encountered this issue?  should the adj camera/light/other mount be connected via the screws holding the CF Mount to the handlebars instead of under the disc on the front? 

Do you know the size (diameter and thread pitch) are that mount the discs for Wahoo/Garmin/Bryton?  My guage set doesn't go down far enough in size/

I'm thinking that I'll end up having to make my own mount - although that's not a project that I look forward to.

7
Are there 2x10mm and 2x5mm spacers or only one of each?

I think two of each.  I originally ordered an extra 5 & 10.  Then I decided to order a second handlebar in order to play with fitting.  So I got two bags of bits with a total 5 10mm and 5 5mm.  Which I think reflects 2 of each per handlebar and my original 1 extra of each.

8
I’m waiting for my new frame to arrive, and in the meantime I bought an Ultegra Di2 groupset from AliExpress. I know this is slightly off-topic, but following this chat I understood there are many experts here I’d like a quick opinion. The shifters don’t power on at all, even after replacing the batteries, and I’m starting to think they might not actually be the wireless ST-R8170 levers I ordered. The mechanism inside also looks mechanical. If anyone can tell me more from the photos— or share any tricks to test them, I’d really appreciate it.

I’m not an expert, look for these:
Was the battery you changed in the lever/housing?  Me h levers don’t have a battery.
Is there a place to install a shifter cable?  Electronic don’t have a shifter cable.
ADo the shift buttons connect mechanically to the shift drum in the body, or are they contact switches, possibly with a visible wire running back into the body.  In the first case mechanical, in the second electronic.

9
A quick question for someone who has a frame in hand.
Can you tell me the thickness (hight) of the bearing cap / spacer please. I’m trying to work out the frame stack with any mandatory spacers needed.

Thank you

Compression ring.  8.3mm
Cover.   10mm
Thick spacer.  10mm
Thin spacer   5mm

Hope this helps

10
I'm not fully up to speed on the various functions on Chinatown, so I'm hoping links work appropriately here.

My 56CM LCR018 arrived yesterday - 8 days to US from ship date.  Not bad at all.  As you can see, packaging was solid and well protected.

I think most people's questions about the bike and components have been answered.  Still I thought the photos I took last night from unpacking and weighing might still be of interest.

Overall, quality seem very good. 
1) Inside and outsides of tubes are clean and look as they should.  BB and brake mounts have been properly faced.  No issues with the paint job. 
2) Seatposts have half and full cm markings on the back, as well as minimum insertion noted.
3) I'm new to UDH, so it took a while before I was comfortable with how tight the fit was in the frame.  Nonetheless, it installed fine. 
4) The storage compartment closes very firmly, but if the catch slips while the cover is installed, it would be a bear to take off.  I'll look at that a bit more closely before storing anything in the downtube.  BTW, the storage bag appears to be of very high quality (material/seams/zipper) although I haven't check its fit in the downtube.
4) Installing the rear brake hose is easy-peasy (just push it through from the rear). 
5) The handlebars look like they will also be easy to thread (conveniently large openings). 
6) Headset bearings look fine for now.  I don't mind disconnecting hoses from the brake levers to change bearings - so not worried about cutting hoses. 
7) My tool fit the bottom bracket fine, but my largest torque wrench is 3/8 drive and I need one that's 1/2.  So off to Harbor Freight tomorrow. 

BTW I have a set of 45mm LightCarbon gravel wheels for this frame.  So far they seem nice.  DT Swiss style of rachet.  I ordered with CX-Ray spokes (I think that was a $70 upcharge - or about $0.70 per gram saved, which is a pretty good price to weight savings).  These arrived in September, and I didn't reweigh last night, but I believe they came in at 1440 gm.
 
As you'll see in the photos, I have both the 0mm (185 gm) and 15mm (180 gm) setback posts.  Ditto for the 100x380 (360 gm) & 80X400 handlebars (325 gm).  Similarly, I have a LightCarbon 3D printed saddle and an Aspide Saddle, not sure which I'll run, but show weights for each.  And I have lots of headset spacers, the picture is a sample which represent what should be the most I'll ever put on the bike.  The weight is shown of the bungs/seatpost clamp/seatpost-cover both with and without the battery holder (which I won't be using).

Finally, the frame with nothing installed came in at 1140 gm.  Again this is a 56 cm, w/ black mat paint with some gold logos.

the photos can be found here:https://photos.app.goo.gl/FjqEnvsMaFZnk2fo7

11
Finished the build tonight at long last.
What a beautiful bike - the raw carbon gloss finish really is amazing and I’m so glad I went for it.
Bike was so easy to build.

A quick 5 minute test confirmed the bike is solid as a rock and as comfortable as you would ever hope for - the geometry is superb. To be able to climb straight onto a bike and feel instantly comfortable and at home says it all.

Ultegra 8170 is absolutely ridiculous. Silent to the point where I wasn’t even sure I changed gear and so fast across the range.

Weighed in around 7.35kg with pedals which is right on target.

Hope to get an hour out on it tomorrow so hopefully will be able to report back after that, but initial impressions are really, really positive.







Looks beautiful - congratulations!

12
Can someone please help me out with the geometry?

My current bike has these measurments:

Seat tube lenght: 580MM
Seatpost lenght: 190MM
total lenght top of saddle to middlepoint BB: 810MM
BB to saddle rai: 770MM

Looking at the geometry, i find it impossible to make the saddle to bb distance long enough for me.

Also did a bikefit couple of months ago, can't figure out if the size 58 frame is good for me.

If someone can please help me out, would be much apreciated

Hey Biggiebaksteen,

Yeah the seat-tube lengths are very short on the LCR018 in the larger sizes.  You probably should start by emailing LightCarbon and determine if 200mm is the true maximum stick-out of the seat post, or if they have a longer post available in the proper aero profile.  It seems odd to me that they wouldn't have a solution for tall riders - but direct contact with them is the only way to be sure.

You noted that you had a fitting recently.  With the answer from LC, I'd imagine that they'd review the specs and tell you if it fits and what size cranks/stem/handlebar/seatpost setback would be best for you.

Good luck!








13
For those who have received the bike frame. Did you have to specify for the carbon or alloy clamps on the seat post or does it come with both?

I haven't received my frame yet, so the following info could be incorrect.  My rep (Chloe) said that the clamps only fit one size saddle rail.  Either pick the correct size, or for a little more (I think $10, may $15) I could have both.  It seemed like cheap future proofing to get both.

YMMV

14
The number of inanities in this message is so great i wont take the time to go point by point.
You do you.
Thanks, I stand corrected

15
Riders position is the most important part in aerodynamics period. You need a frame that allows you to be most aero and efficient at the same time.
Agreed

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