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Messages - plocnik

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1
After The Ride / Re: Where is everyone from?
« on: August 24, 2026, 03:17:34 AM »
Maribor, Slovenia

2
Hi folks,

I've used Cooma pink and have been underwhelmed by their stopping power on our cargo bikes. We have steep hills around here and they didn't compare to Shimano or Magura stock pads in max stopping power.

On my eMTB with TRP DHR EVO brakes, I have tried gold ZTTO after trying different TRP and MTX pads. The stopping power is impressive, but they are so grabby that I struggle with front wheel lock up in loose, dry, conditions. Squealing is OK, they stop after a bit of braking and they have the typical grating sound of metallic pads in wet and muddy conditions.

I'm looking for an option that offers more modulation, even if the braking power is a bit lower. Cooma Gold is suggested by Google AI. I'm looking for any real life feedback or suggestions for others to try - I saw Bucklos Copper above as an option to try.

Thanks for your tips.

I've been running Cooma Gold in the rear and Shimano L04C in the front - I have to say there is very little difference for me on very steep descends. I weigh around 80kg and the bike is 10kg. The braking performance is not quite on the level of my mtb with 4-piston Magura black, but I think that has more to do with the brakes and bike themselves, not just brakepads. When Shimano pads wear out, I'll just put Coomas in.

3
funny my golds on 3 bike all squeal horribly so that i will switch them out.
Have you tried deep cleaning and maybe even re-sanding the disc surface? Technically this should be done anytime you change the brakepad compound and some pad transitions are just worse than others.

4
Maintenance, Mechanics, & Tools / Re: Wheel building
« on: March 18, 2026, 03:05:38 AM »
did you try searching the internet on "Bicycle wheelbuilding books"?   All of the major publications are for sale.   Regarding straight pull and carbon spokes (berd spokes)  The principles how you build the wheel is the same, but the hubs are different.

If you already broke a spoke on your wheel, this means that you didn't have the spoke tension even on all of your spokes.   (Did you use a spoke tension meter?)
( Sound tuning spokes works great too, but you need to develop this skill over time.)

Many people build their own wheels.  It isn't worth building your own wheels unless you are willing to spend a fair amount of money on all of the required tools,
or you plan to build many wheels over time to serve your own bicycle building addiction.

FYI, experienced wheel builders take about 20 minutes to lace up a wheel,  another 10 to 20 minutes to bring the spokes up to initial tension, and between 20 minutes to an hour to tension and true the wheel, depending on the rim type and if the wheels has a welded seam or uses an insert at the seam.    Today's carbon rims are so good that I can build and true a complete wheel in less than an hour. 
 

That's the way to go about it. Though, carbon spokes and Berd spokes (polymer) are different things.

5
WANTED
best tyre levers available?
thanks

Unior. No idea about chinese ones.

6
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Elite wheel hubs rd07
« on: February 05, 2026, 02:35:28 AM »
I had the RD07 (pawl) and RD13 (ratchet) hubs and can confirm any generic free hub is compatible. Based on this, I believe any QR end cap would be fine. The products on the mana store are expensive.

I get this, but I've been looking for the adapters for a while now and any answer I get is along the line of "any generic would be fine", but there are quite a few different generic endcaps available. I wanted to link the specific product, because the information is quite elusive and someone else might be as confused as me.

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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Kozo 2
« on: January 15, 2026, 04:44:16 AM »
Wow, those AI pictures are soooo bad...  ???

I don't think they're AI generated. It seems like an actual bike - all the components are in the right place, chain seems correct, the spokes don't randomly disappear and merge into one another. On the closeup, there are imperfections, but they look like bad paint or even someone with grimy hands touching it.

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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Elite wheel hubs rd07
« on: December 15, 2025, 07:42:04 AM »
Hi, I recently bought a couple of Elitewheels Ent + adapters, as soon as I get my hands on them I can provide pictures and measurements, if that's of any help.

Where did you get the adapters? I am looking for them and can't find them anywhere.

10
Have had this mount for 6 months. I put a couple wraps of electrical tape on the carbon seat rails to give a little cushion and added some loctite to the screws.  It’s been perfectly stable for me.

I've had this on my gravel bike for 2 years. No electrical tape, no additional loctite (there might've been some from the factory) and it holds perfectly. It looks clean and I can put the bike in the workstand without the radar being in the way. One of my favourite little bike accessories.

11
Component Deals & Selection / Re: Mud guard/Fender recommendations
« on: December 02, 2025, 01:49:53 AM »
An additional +1 for the Speedrockers. They're excellent.

12
Component Deals & Selection / Re: Chains!
« on: November 19, 2025, 02:01:12 AM »
Stick with proper shimano and SRAM chains. No need to try and save money here and have sub-par performance. None of the KMC or YBN chains I tried shifter as smooth and shimano, were as quite as shimano and lasted nowhere near as long as shimano. All this with proper waxing and 12 speed.
BUT they look amazing with all the colours haha :)
No need to avoid KMC, they only specialize in chains and they're a big player for a reason. From Sram, Shimano and KMC, I'd say Sram make the worst ones, especially longevity-wise. From my research, KMC and Shimano outlast them by quite a margin and from what I've tried, there is no noticable difference in performance on a maintained drivetrain.

13
As Potooooooo said, go see a bike fitter like yesterday. Extra 5cm in each hand should not be causing you such issues with your fit and I'm sorry to say that you very likely have a wrong sized frame. Getting a correct frame should not be that much of an issue, since most road bikes are too long and low for people of average build and flexibility. It hurts to lose a bit of money, but cycling while in pain is just not worth it if you want to enjoy the hobby.

14
Maintenance, Mechanics, & Tools / Re: 3d printer for bike parts
« on: November 10, 2025, 03:21:54 AM »
Tools, disc brake spacers, light mounts, headunit mounts and different attachment points are what I use my 3d printer for on bikes.
My next projects are an interface for a bearing press (until now I always pressed headsets with a threaded rod and a washer, but I'd like something better fitting for bottom brackets) and a mount to put a Varia on the screw on the Ergon seat (or the Specialized SWAT system).

15
I gave up on TPU tubes. Patch repairs never last, they're finicky and they can easily puncture.

I'd only use them if you have non-tubeless compatible wheels. I recently mounted a wheelset with GP5K tires and TPU tubes and it felt so squishy to me. I took them off and slapped on some tubeless tires on there. They feel SO much more firm and solid. I'll never go back to tubes.

Interesting, I've had Pirelli TPU tubes last for about 10000km. One is still holding on and the other didn't puncture, but the valve stem cracked because I tightened the core too hard. I did get a leak from a badly glued valve stem on a RideNow one, though. In my experience, TPU is by far the best option for tubes in terms of puncture resistance, feel and weight.

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