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After The Ride / Re: Where is everyone from?
« on: August 24, 2026, 03:17:34 AM »
Maribor, Slovenia
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Hi folks,
I've used Cooma pink and have been underwhelmed by their stopping power on our cargo bikes. We have steep hills around here and they didn't compare to Shimano or Magura stock pads in max stopping power.
On my eMTB with TRP DHR EVO brakes, I have tried gold ZTTO after trying different TRP and MTX pads. The stopping power is impressive, but they are so grabby that I struggle with front wheel lock up in loose, dry, conditions. Squealing is OK, they stop after a bit of braking and they have the typical grating sound of metallic pads in wet and muddy conditions.
I'm looking for an option that offers more modulation, even if the braking power is a bit lower. Cooma Gold is suggested by Google AI. I'm looking for any real life feedback or suggestions for others to try - I saw Bucklos Copper above as an option to try.
Thanks for your tips.
funny my golds on 3 bike all squeal horribly so that i will switch them out.Have you tried deep cleaning and maybe even re-sanding the disc surface? Technically this should be done anytime you change the brakepad compound and some pad transitions are just worse than others.
did you try searching the internet on "Bicycle wheelbuilding books"? All of the major publications are for sale. Regarding straight pull and carbon spokes (berd spokes) The principles how you build the wheel is the same, but the hubs are different.
If you already broke a spoke on your wheel, this means that you didn't have the spoke tension even on all of your spokes. (Did you use a spoke tension meter?)
( Sound tuning spokes works great too, but you need to develop this skill over time.)
Many people build their own wheels. It isn't worth building your own wheels unless you are willing to spend a fair amount of money on all of the required tools,
or you plan to build many wheels over time to serve your own bicycle building addiction.
FYI, experienced wheel builders take about 20 minutes to lace up a wheel, another 10 to 20 minutes to bring the spokes up to initial tension, and between 20 minutes to an hour to tension and true the wheel, depending on the rim type and if the wheels has a welded seam or uses an insert at the seam. Today's carbon rims are so good that I can build and true a complete wheel in less than an hour.
WANTED
best tyre levers available?
thanks
I had the RD07 (pawl) and RD13 (ratchet) hubs and can confirm any generic free hub is compatible. Based on this, I believe any QR end cap would be fine. The products on the mana store are expensive.
Wow, those AI pictures are soooo bad...
Hi, I recently bought a couple of Elitewheels Ent + adapters, as soon as I get my hands on them I can provide pictures and measurements, if that's of any help.
Have had this mount for 6 months. I put a couple wraps of electrical tape on the carbon seat rails to give a little cushion and added some loctite to the screws. It’s been perfectly stable for me.
Stick with proper shimano and SRAM chains. No need to try and save money here and have sub-par performance. None of the KMC or YBN chains I tried shifter as smooth and shimano, were as quite as shimano and lasted nowhere near as long as shimano. All this with proper waxing and 12 speed.No need to avoid KMC, they only specialize in chains and they're a big player for a reason. From Sram, Shimano and KMC, I'd say Sram make the worst ones, especially longevity-wise. From my research, KMC and Shimano outlast them by quite a margin and from what I've tried, there is no noticable difference in performance on a maintained drivetrain.
BUT they look amazing with all the colours haha
I gave up on TPU tubes. Patch repairs never last, they're finicky and they can easily puncture.
I'd only use them if you have non-tubeless compatible wheels. I recently mounted a wheelset with GP5K tires and TPU tubes and it felt so squishy to me. I took them off and slapped on some tubeless tires on there. They feel SO much more firm and solid. I'll never go back to tubes.