Hi, I'm reviving this thread. The seller at 318 Bike Store had me do some testing these days. I sent all the videos, and now we're talking about him shipping me a replacement rear derailleur as soon as it arrives from ltwoo. Since I don't have an ER7, he'll send me an ER9, which he told me will work with ER7 levers. He'll also send me new cables. If it arrives and everything works, I think I'll use silicone to seal around the cables. The water could only have gotten in through there... We'll see when it arrives, and I'll keep you updated.
Hi everyone, I'm updating the situation. The 318 Bike Store seller was truly excellent. He walked me through the issue step by step, having me do tests, and I sent him videos each time so he could show them to their technician. From the videos, he determined that the problem was the rear derailleur. He sent me a derailleur, and since they didn't have an ER7 in stock, he sent me an ER9, telling me it would be compatible with my ER7 levers. Everything arrived today, I mounted the derailleur, and everything started working great again. I'm thrilled to have resolved the issue, and I was lucky to find a reputable seller who provided me with the right technical support.
Hi, today I was out on a bike ride and I got caught in the rain. My LTWOO ER7 derailleur, which I bought at the end of August, stopped working. It says 0% battery even when I charge it. The battery was at 87% before the rain. If I plug it in, the green LED stays solid as if the battery was charged, but the app still says 0%. Also, when I press the button on the rear derailleur, it flashes red. Here video: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kcLbW77WTYrgERWvIhRLGujFNgEcgUR1/view I've already contacted the seller 318 Bike Store, LTWOO support, and AliExpress support, but I don't expect any kind of support. Has anyone had the same problem? I was hoping the issue would be solved with the v3 and ER7 versions, but apparently not....
Hi, I'm reviving this thread. The seller at 318 Bike Store had me do some testing these days. I sent all the videos, and now we're talking about him shipping me a replacement rear derailleur as soon as it arrives from ltwoo. Since I don't have an ER7, he'll send me an ER9, which he told me will work with ER7 levers. He'll also send me new cables. If it arrives and everything works, I think I'll use silicone to seal around the cables. The water could only have gotten in through there... We'll see when it arrives, and I'll keep you updated.
Hi, today I was out on a bike ride and I got caught in the rain. My LTWOO ER7 derailleur, which I bought at the end of August, stopped working. It says 0% battery even when I charge it. The battery was at 87% before the rain. If I plug it in, the green LED stays solid as if the battery was charged, but the app still says 0%. Also, when I press the button on the rear derailleur, it flashes red. Here video: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kcLbW77WTYrgERWvIhRLGujFNgEcgUR1/view I've already contacted the seller 318 Bike Store, LTWOO support, and AliExpress support, but I don't expect any kind of support. Has anyone had the same problem? I was hoping the issue would be solved with the v3 and ER7 versions, but apparently not....
I also tried it out on the road today for a 137km ride, and it's really cool. It even fixed a small rubbing I had before with the manual trim without touching anything else.
This is great news. I immediately tried it on a tripod and it moves around a lot. I think it will consume a little more battery, but it's a feature I like and will use.
hi thx for the answers. btw rightnow im using 50-34 chainring. In your opinion, will it work smoothly? Because the chain tension will automatically increase when shifting to the 34T sprocket, but I might only use the 34T chainring with the 34T sprocket combination for safety.
i have er7 too with 11-32t 12 speed. i want to upgrade to 11-34t 12 speed, is there any issue? have you tried before? *with stock cage or need upgrade? please tell me
thanks
I make upgrade from 11-28 to 11-34 without issue with stock cage. I only adjusted B screw to move the upper pulley away from the sprocket and re-calibrating. I adjusted the chain accordingly; I probably won't be able to cross 50/34, but that's a combination I'd never use.
I tried it out on Saturday (117km with 3150 + elevation) and I'd say it performed really well.
P.S. For better shifting, I ultimately decided to use the original Shimano cassette, chain, and chainrings.
I'm updating the situation after some time. Since I installed the battery inside the seatpost with this, I haven't had any more disconnection issues.
I've only been able to use one because I have a D-shaped seatpost. To "revive" the shifting, I did several tests, and it works both with a mini power bank and with a cell phone + USB-OTG + USBA to USBC.
The day before yesterday, I changed the brake pads and used Shimano L05A ones. To retract the pistons, I removed the screw on the lever side and inserted the cup. Once the pistons were retracted, I removed the cup and closed the system. I didn't have to bleed the system.
I then finally mounted the Shimano 105 11-34 cassette with a CN-HG701 chain. Shifting is perfect. I haven't changed the pulleys yet, as the shifting is excellent even with them. I'm keeping them aside for the future.
i finally took a video of the problem i have. the fd will respond but not shift, it will eventually shift properly but i dont know what causes it to "wake up" it always responds when plugged in and then stays working even after the 15 second timeout for a while. i just checked the battery and it isnt a loose cable.
i remember people complaining about the fd not sleeping and killing the battery i feel like they tried to fix that but its too agressive on some hardware revisions, i know there are multiple versions of the v3 fd because some can be updated to fix the single gear fine tuning and some cant (mine is one that cant)
Have you tried contacting ltwoo support? If not, contact them using a non-gmail email address (they don't respond to me if I contact them using my gmail email address, but they always respond if I contact them using another email address).
I didn't know there was a difference between derailleurs, which is interesting. I have an ER7 and it doesn't have fine tuning.
Something strange happened to me today. While I was riding, the gear shifter suddenly died. I thought I'd try plugging it into a charger. Luckily, there was a house along the road with some guys who had power and a charger. Given the bad experience, I bought a mini power bank to leave in my underseat bag.
The only thing I can think of is that I hit a big pothole shortly beforehand. Did the gear shifter go into "protection mode"?
It happened again today after about 70km, but I have two pieces of good news: 1) Found the root cause: I checked the seatpost and found that the battery cradle had actually fallen out of its position and was just dangling inside the frame. This movement clearly caused the micro-disconnection that triggered the BMS protection. I reinserted it as firmly as possible and managed to ride another 150km without a single issue, even on rough roads. 2) Emergency fix confirmed: The 'defibrillator' method works! I used a mini powerbank to give it a 1-second 'wake up' charge, and the system came back to life instantly.
Now I've just bought rubber ribbed Di2-style mounts. They should provide the necessary friction and damping to keep the battery cradle from sliding down the D-shaped seatpost.
To solve the mechanical issue, I decided to purchase ribbed rubber/silicone adapters instead of the rigid plastic ones.
The reason is simple: with my new, stiffer wheels and D-shaped seatpost, I believe the rigid plastic created excessive vibrations, causing the battery to slip. These silicone mounts act as a vibration dampener, absorbing the strongest impacts caused by potholes. This should hopefully also prevent the micro-disconnections that trigger the BMS's protection mode.
Another recommended step is to carefully place heat-shrink tubing around the 14500 batteries to prevent them from moving excessively.
Anyway, now that I think about it, the battery holder started giving me problems when I put the stiffer, higher profile wheels on the bike. Perhaps the increased vibrations caused the battery holder to fall off the seat post.
Yup same issue here. Did not solve the problem yet. I will swap for a grx with wider chainline to cheat this... Some peole on forum also noted that issue. No idea why other people sont face this issue though
I think it also depends on the frame at this point. I use a Shimano crankset with a 43.5 chainline, not even the new 12-speed ones with a 44.5 chainline, and I don't have any problems...
If it is working normally now, the previous malfunction was most likely caused by a loose seatpost mounting bracket (on the frame) or a loose lithium battery mounting bracket inside the seatpost battery. Simply tighten the battery again.
My reply:
As I said in my previous email, I didn't touch the cables, brackets, etc.
I simply connected the USB-C charger and it worked again. As soon as I connected and disconnected the USB-C cable, the rear derailleur light came back on and it resumed communicating with both the Geoid CC700 Pro and the Ltwoo app on my phone.
If it were a wiring or connection issue, it shouldn't have worked without first reconnecting them correctly or just connecting a USB-C charging cable, I think. Is that correct?
Or are you telling me that there's a cable that's not connected properly or and that the derailleur control unit goes into protection mode, and to exit protection I have to connect the USB-C cable?
Just to understand where the problem lies, I like to understand things....
I've tried cassettes and even some cheap Chinese cranksets. The only solution that worked flawlessly was with the original Shimano cassette and chainrings (I used a 105 crankset and Ultegra sprockets) with a Shimano chain (CN-M7100). With other combinations, I always had some "hesitation," especially under stress, as well as excessive noise. Goldix or Ztto cassettes costing €80 or more will probably be fine, but at that price, I'd rather buy an Ultegra and have it the next day, as it's a guarantee in case of problems with the teeth rather than saving a few grams.
Since I like to "understand" things, I tried to ask LTWOO support for an explanation of the behavior. My Question: I have a Ltwoo ER7 derailleur with which I've ridden over 3,000 km. Something strange happened today. While I was riding, the derailleur died, showing no signs of life, everything was off, even when I pressed the rear derailleur buttons... I thought about trying to connect it to a charger. After plugging it in and out (without doing anything else), the derailleur came back on and everything restarted perfectly. The only thing that happened shortly before was that I hit a big pothole. Could the derailleur have gone into "protection mode" and by plugging in the power cable I "reset" it? Now everything is working fine, I just wanted to understand what could have happened.
Their response was as follows:
1. Based on your text description, we cannot determine the cause of the malfunction. Please provide a video demonstrating the problem.
2. Please provide proof of purchase, a screenshot of your buyer information from the shopping platform, and your shipping address.
3. Please follow the steps outlined in to troubleshoot the problem and record a video of the process to help us analyze the cause.
My reply:
Hi,
1) I can't make a video now because now work correctly.
2) i attach image of aliexpress order
3) None of the scenarios in the video happened. The rear derailleur didn't give off any lights. Not even when I pressed the button for 30 seconds. The front derailleur didn't respond to the left shift command. The groupset wasn't reachable from the app. I connected the USB-C charger to the front derailleur for 10 seconds and then disconnected the charger. As soon as I disconnected the charger, everything started working again, and I rode another 50km home. The battery was still at 65%. I didn't touch anything else, and everything worked fine again. That evening at home, I recharged the battery, and it charged correctly to 100%.
My intention is to understand what really happened, why, and whether it could happen again, and under what circumstances. Notwithstanding the fact that I now always have both reverse charging cables from my smartphone and a mini power bank with me.
I also asked the seller AliExpress (318Bike store) the question. He responded immediately, telling me he would look into it and to let me know if the problem recurred.