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Messages - emilioea

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1
It's a frame built on a new geo confirmed to me today by Mondince through Whatsapp. I also thought it might be prototype frame when I saw the pictures, but it seems not. It should look longer, right?
I updated my earlier post to include info about the geo.

Intersting. I've tried some image measuring tools, and I get somewhat close numbers to the new geometry (although I wouldn't call my quick method very precise  ;D), so I guess my eyes were deceiving me.

2
Here is FM366 in size M with 2.25" tyres. Would probably fit 2.35" by the looks of it.
But am I being crazy or something about the frame looks off? It might be a visual illusion because of chimney worth of spacers, a paint choice, or just chunky tyres, but to me it looks short, tall and too front heavy.
It's most likely just me being too undecisive about the frameset I want, but I'd love to hear opinions from more established gravel enjoyers. 

It indeed looks tall and short. I guess that's a prototype from the old geo. The new geo is clearly longer.

3
I think it is ok how you have it. Just make sure that the bearing sits nicely with the chamfered part of the fork.

The crown race is not needed, because the fork already has that integrated in the carbon.

4
Very nice, reminds a bit of the Colnago color pattern.
FWIW, on tires: I tried the Schwalbe RX Pro (in 50mm) for the FM326 and they have been a blast so far.
They have been on the bike since January, so they have seen everything from snow to deep mud and now the dried out paths.
I am riding them with about 1.7 bar in a tubeless setup, no puncture so far and no slipping.
RX Pro: https://www.schwalbe.com/en/Schwalbe-G-One-RX-PRO-11654575

If that's too "offrad" for you, the R PRO is potentially a fit: https://www.schwalbe.com/en/Schwalbe-G-One-R-PRO-11654240.01

I'm running both. G-One RX 50 mm at the front and R 50 mm at the rear. I'm very happy with them so far. I use a bit less pressure, around 1.4 bar. They roll very well and with good grip.

5
Anyone knows if the clearance on the FM326 is affected by a front derailleur? I asked Jack and he says no, but I doubt that so if anyone has tried I would like to know!

With GRX cranks and mechanical front derailleur it is fine with 50 mm tires.

Road cranks and FD sit 2.5 mm closer, which should also be fine, but I'd say on the limit. Electronic FD are bulkier, so it may be tight, but I haven't tested it.

6
I ordered the FM326 with flipchip, Jack just contacted me that there are issues with the fork and are offering the old fork without the flipchip.
This is what was wrong according to Jack: The hub contact the aluminum part only. Did not contact the fork leg. So the fork leg may move during riding under some condition


Edit: apparently they have a fix ready in 25 days

I'm glad I have the non flip-chip fork :-)

I have no idea why these flip chips are popular. Only a tiny % of people will really use it. I'd say, pick one offset, and go with it.

7
I don't have that feeling at all with the FM326 (size S). I have no complaints about the handling, with 80 mm stem and 400 mm handlebar.

8
Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Mondince new 2026 Aero Gravel
« on: February 02, 2026, 02:43:15 AM »
Mondice claims the frame is compatible with SUSPENSION FORK(RockShock Rudy 30-50MM Travel). Anyone tried it with the suspension fork?

I haven't tried it, but it should work fine. Most gravel suspension forks are around 430 mm (and once you're on the bike, you'll have some initial compression -SAG-), and the FM326 is 420 mm, so geometry will be almost the same with the suspension fork.

9
Since you've already tested multiple wheels, this is unlikely the cause of your issues, but just to be 100% sure: try to install the wheel in reverse (e.g. disc-brake side on the drive side). If the wheel is incorrectly dished, you will now have the narrower clearance at the other side of the bike. If you still have the same clearances as before, then you can completely rule out issues with the wheel dish.

If you're suspecting that the UDH is not seated perfectly straight, then remove it and check for resin or paint in the dropout (which you may have to sand carefuly if that's the case). You can also try to measure if the clearance is meaningfully different when the thru axle is a bit loose vs fully tightened (e.g. test 2 Nm vs 12 Nm)

10
That is the headset supplied by Mondince with the frame, but the top bearing is different, it’s a ACB518 with 51,8mm outer diameter and 8mm thick (upper headtube frame diameter is 52mm, and a 52mm diameter bearing will be tight because is designed for 52.2mm headtubes)
With such bearing the rubber cover sits well in place with no rubbing

Interesting, my bearing was 7 mm thick, so that's why I had to be creative  :D
I didn't know Mondince sent that headset, it's a lot better than the one from SPCycle.

11
I used this headset Neco H322TP-1, since I preferred its compression ring and having the cables out from the sides instead of the one from SPCycle which had all four cables out from the front and a C-shaped compression ring:
https://www.necoparts.com/en/product/H322TP-1.html

which is supposed to be for 7 mm deep bearing seats, but I had to cut like 1 mm of the rubber seal all around the circunference to avoid rubbing (see attachment).

With that, the spacing looks great and no rubbing, so I guess the bearing seat is slightly more than 7 mm.

12
What I did, I included all of the reach figures of all the components - handlebars, stem, frame and then compared the figures between the frames. Some bars can differ as much as 20 mm in reach.

This website is great:
https://www.bike-stats.de/en/geometrie_vergleich?Bike1=Mondince_FM326_2025_S

Here you get the frame geometry and then you can add the details of your stem, spacers, handlebar, etc and will calculate for you the BB to handlebar and saddle to handlebar distances, and you can compare to your previous bikes.

13
There's approximately 5mm from the derailleur to the inside edge of the chain stay. That's set up with a GRX 600 series crankset so there should still be enough room with a road one fitted.

Mine seems to be almost at the inside of the chainstays level (GRX 810), at least visually. I'll try to measure the distance from the tire to the FD.

PS: I've measured it and I have 7 mm clearance from the tire (Schwalbe G-One R Pro 50 mm on 25 mm internal width rims, which measure 50 mm) to the GRX RX810 front derailleur. A road front derailleur with road cranks will then have 4.5 mm of clearance, which is below the 6 mm ISO standard. Therefore, officially you'd have to run 47 mm tires max to get the official ISO clearance. In practice, it'll probably be OK unless it is extremely muddy.

14
I'm using a 12 spd 105 derailleur on mine as I had one spare and it doesn't effect tyre clearance at all.

If you use GRX cranks, they sit 2.5 mm outboard, so you have to set the low limit further away from the frame, so you're positioning the road FD in the same place the GRX FD would be. With road cranks you'd have to wind the low limit back 2.5 mm, moving it closer to the tire.

15
Tire clearance doesn't work that way. With a GRX FD I could easily fit 65mil tires if my frame allowed it

In my FM326 the GRX 810 FD is basically in line with the chainstay, so i can fit 50 mm with around 5-6 mm of clearance (6 mm is the ISO standard). If I used a road FD, I'd have 2.5 mm less clearance, so I'd have to use a 45 mm tire (or risk it with a very tight clearance, but I wouldn't want to run it that tight).
PS: when I bought the frame, the guy from Spcycle told me that the official clearance for 2x for this bike is 45 mm.

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