In addition to the storage door being useless (having to tape it shut, so I cannot use it), my seat post is continually slipping.

I have torqued to 10 nm and added a lot of carbon fibre paste.

Does anyone have a good solution?

I frequently fly with the bike and have to remove the seat post to remove the battery, so I don’t want to add any loose parts between the seat post and the frame (such as the plastic PVC part that a previous poster posted).

Interesting you should post this.
Had mine out for a 3 hour ride yesterday, storage door fell off twice, second time it cracked my bottle and all my remaining water went flowing down the road. 2 hours with no drink!!!!

I don’t know what’s going on with the mechanism - I’ll need to take a closer look, but it definitely feels like a design flaw and not up to standard.
If the v2 is not a proper fix, then they either need to come up with a v3 asap or i actually feel like requesting a frame swap to a non storage version as it is simply not fit for purpose.

So annoying that one little feature can really ruin what is otherwise a crazy good bike.

Definitely agree with you. I’m skeptical that a new version of the storage lid alone will fix the issue, it seems to be more an issue with the design of the locking mechanism itself rather than just the lid.

I’m really satisfied with the frame overall, but I do regret choosing the in-frame storage. Hopefully, LightCarbon will come up with a proper solution for this.

This is my only bike, and I ride it frequently - at least four times per week, including one ride of 200 km or more. I’ll also be using it extensively leading up to summer, when I’ll be participating in a 315 km race with our group doing at least a 36 km/h rolling average. On top of that, I plan to take the bike abroad for several trips, starting with Mallorca in two weeks.

Just to underline how important it is for me to be able to fully trust the bike during long, fast rides, especially in a group.

What size bottles are you guys using?

I’ve been using 750 ml bottles, and I’ll likely switch to 1-liter bottles soon. That said, the size doesn’t seem to matter - the lid was still coming off even when the bottle was in my jersey pocket and not in the cage.

While riding, I had to repeatedly pull the lid lever back up, and it would pop open again as soon as I forgot to do it.

If someone has the v2 storage lid, it would be great to hear how your experience has been.

Take a look onto the backside of the storage door. The tiny screw can get tightened. I did it before my First Ride and had no losening or rattling issues.

Good luck

Thanks, but I tried to tighten it but did not succeed. I did not want to brake anything so I did not put an excessive amount of force though. However, the bolt movement follows the arm movement, so I am not quite sure that the bolt actually is adjustable.

I will give it another shot. I have put a order for another frame and requested an additional lid of the new version, which hopefully is better, but the delivery is at least a month away. A lots of biking will happen until then…

I am also in the same situation, and I have an LCR018-D on order. I would rather go for something more lightweight, but have not found any such frame. Other than the INCOLOR SSR Road in custom geometry, but that costs as much as an S-Works.

Saving up for the S-Works Aethos 2, but keeping an eye on the Chinese market in the meanwhile.

Weight, aero, aesthetics, and safety. I'm working on a long term review of the 16H/18H setup and so far they're solid. I've bombed them down mountains and hit a crack hard enough to snap the clips off my bike computer. Still straight, no broken bones. No major issues with the wheels so far. I also packed them tight in a bike box to fly them from San Francisco to Toronto and back. Held up to to baggage handling and a TSA inspection

I'm going to ride them until the end of the year until I make the proper review, but so far I'm confident in their safety for riding, not confident in the durability if you want to fly with them, or get in a crash, and don't recommend carbon spokes for long distance riding unless your fit is totally dialed

Get T1100/16H/18H/34mm if you want the best you can buy for crit racing or you just want to go fast on rougher roads. If you care about durability or value, get a lower grade carbon. You can deflect the T1100 rims by pushing the side walls with your finger. T700/T800 is much more durable

If you ride 50 miles plus, stick to steel or titanium spokes. Pick Ti if you want the very best for long distances. Pick steel if you want 99.9% of the benefit of Ti for a lot less money

Peter is great. I don't think I'd buy my next set from a western or Chinese brand for my next set. OEMs like Zara at Zen and Peter with XMCS don't seem beatable if you have better uses for $2,000 than a brand name and excellent warranty, want better specs with good enough warranty care

- My Elitewheels de laminated, ending my 230 mile weekend ride 20 miles from the finish line. Elite told me to kick rocks, I posted about it, and now they want me to delete my story to get my warranty replacement
- A western wheel brand would have instantly replaced the whole wheel or paid to replace the rim, but that cost is built into the price alongside pricing power for branding cache. Western brands are also 5 years behind the Chinese because the actual manufacturing know how is in China, and western brands are paralyzed by litigation hell
- When @JustinFox had an issue with Peter's wheels with a custom polish finish, he immediately paid to re-true the wheels, and offered a heavily discounted replacement without polish when that didn't fix the issue. An immediate rim replacement would probably have made more sense for both parties, but the discount likely would have cost Peter around the same amount
- - The rims are only around $180 per, I'd guess they cost Peter $100 each to make, labor to lace the rims in Australia would be around $100, guessing shipping is around $75, so $375-$400. I'm guessing his discount for a new wheel set was around that much
- - When Justin posted his story, Peter replaced the whole wheel set, and presumably didn't condition it on deleting his story. A full wheelset replacement is pretty unexpected direct from an OEM considering the price point

I looked for the cheapest semi comparable option to Justin's from Zipp. Here it is:
https://www.competitivecyclist.com/b/zipp-454-nsw-carbon-disc-brake-wheel-tubeless

- Zipp: $3,396.38 shipped to my door
- - Mine from Peter (T1100 50/65x34mm 16/18): $1,060 shipped to my door
- Mine were fine, but if Justin's wheels are anything to go off, Zipp could have better wheel balancing out of the factory, or Peter's could just have had too much resin polished off his rims, throwing off his wheel true-ness when a tire is inflated. I'd imagine the polished finish has been axed anyways
- 53mm - 58mm depth vs 50mm and 60mm these likely have around the same average depth
- 27.8mm max external width vs 32.9mm
- Zipp also has a wavy rim profile that should help in the crosswinds at that depth, but wider rims do a lot to reduce cross wind instability as is
- - If I could go back and buy my set again, I think I would just go 65mm front and rear. 50mm is no problem at least at a 34.25mm width, I'd guess 65mm depth is fine as well. Justin's are only 1.35mm narrower, so I'd imagine they have similar stability
- 1358g claimed weight (1500g actual weight (1509g weight in by Pat with valves)) vs an 1168g actual weight on Justin's.
- - Peter quoted me 1255g-1265g for T1100 50x32mm/65x34mm 20/20. I went with 18/16 spokes (-18g) but a thicker 34mm wide front rim (+10g), so I expected 1247g-1257g, but the actual weight was 1229g. That's 18g lower than the lowest estimated weight, and 23g less than the mid point estimate vs 142g over estimate with the Zipp wheels
- - Also keep in mind that 1500g weight is while cutting out the hook bead which would add 30g, and make the wheels significantly safer
- Only steel J bend spokes in 2025 vs steel, carbon bladed at several depths, or titanium

- Cheaply made
- - Hookless trash
- - 24 spokes front and rear with the same rim and same lacing pattern. Incredibly lazy or ridiculous cost cutting on a premium wheelset
vs
- As cheap or expensive as you please
- - You can go down to T700, steel spokes, spoke holes, steel bearings, steel spokes, 24/24 hubs, for a few hundred dollars(Wait, I think this is just the Zipp wheel, except with a hook so you don't lose your teeth), all the way up T1100, ceramic bearings, new 16/18 hubs, bladed carbon spokes, no spoke holes, custom stickers, for 1/3 the price of the Zipp wheels, and expert advice from Peter along the way

I don't feel too bad for picking on Zipp after listening to their product manager hop on the Nero show and spend a full hour spouting off dishonesty and marketing drivel:
www.youtube dot com /watch?v=jB735qrgc5E (i did this to disable the embed)

Peter has a solid niche with a very good value proposition. I think tweaking his warranty practices to avoid any sort of purchase by the customer mid warranty would be ideal. It feels better to get a $360 of rims replaced free than to get a whole new $1100 wheelset for half off, even if you're getting a better deal when you do the math. Maybe require destruction proof when warrantying a defective rim to dissuade bogus warranty claims since there's less margin on these wheelsets

I also think proper branding on his products is an easy way to add a lot of value for many of us. I think my XMCS wheels are really cool. I paid like $50 to make some custom XMCS decals. Peter could offer nicer branding on them and it would likely cost him like $10 per set. I'd bet sexy branding could drive a couple hundred dollars of perceived value to consumers, even if it's not backed up with marketing money

I had a hard time picking between XMCS and Magene EXARs even though the specs for XMCS were better. Magene simply has better aesthetics than a plain rim and are the same price as Peter's wheels

This turned into a mini review by accident, but I've got a lot more to say about my wheels, and I still want to get some more time on them to get more of a feel for how they ride, and to see how they hold up over time. It took hundreds of miles until my ENT 2.0 showed an issue. Too many "they hold a line well, they're really smooth, I don't see any voids, use my affiliate code in the description" type of wheel reviews out there. The world doesn't need mine 

Great ”mini” review.

What is your system weight? I guess that is something to take into consideration when running 16/18H.

I have a 58/65-33 T1100 5mm spokes setup on pre-order, went for 20/20H as I want to be able to run a 95 kg system weight.

Also, regarding going for 50 miles plus and you suggesting steel/titanium spokes instead. A fair load of my outdoor rides are 50 miles, usually 100+. What tire width are you running? I suppose that affects perceived harshness.

Fair enough point - I havent got to the point of installing the thru axles in anger, other than lightly holding it on the workstand.
Im simply going by previous threads ive read on weight weenies complaining about having problem leveraging enough torque and better tools to use, hence the question about what everyone uses. Not everyone has the same strength and capabilities, so experiences will vary wildly.

Every day is a learning day - and thats where forums like this are great.

I really recommend a torque wrench, one 1/2” 20+ Nm for the BB and discs, and one 1/4” ~2-15 Nm for everything else

Looks great.

Interesting with even higher stack and lower reach than LightCarbon LCR018-D. At least for size 58. However, this Elves frame has smaller wheelbase and less fork offset when comparing to the LightCarbon frame. Definitely interesting combination.

I wonder what the weight will be for size 58.