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Messages - gusuka

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Hi guys,
I just finished my new build but am experiencing play in the headset unfortunately. I am sure this was addressed some times earlier here but I did not find a proper solution anyway and hope you can help me.
I am using the bearings from light carbon but the following stem spacers and top cap.: https://a.aliexpress.com/_EuoqYTG

But if I tighten the top cap slightly (like normal) I have significant play back and forth in the headset.
The play disappears only if I thighten the top cap >2.5 NM. This makes no sense and also the steering I not rideable stiff.
I double checked the mounting direction of the bearings, they are correct.
The angle of the cut of the fork is not ideal. See attached pictures. Could this be the problem bc the compression plug is not at the right angle if thightend?
Do you have any other ideas what I could try?
Also when mounting everthing multiple times the compression plug became loose it seemed, this seemed also strange to me.

Thanks alot in advance.

Just before tightening the top cap, is there a gap of about 5 mm between the top cap and the top of the steerer tube, that is, the compression plug? I guess you’ve probably already checked this, but if there isn’t enough gap, you’ll need to either add a shim or cut a bit more off the steerer tube. Also, in that case, the compression plug might already be damaged, so it’s worth checking.

2
> Did you go with OEM bearings?

I used the original headset bearings included with the frameset. Personally, I haven't noticed any problems, and it's working fine.

--
Regarding the seatpost slip, 8 Nm was fine. Sorry, I just misjudged the cover's position. ::)
When adjusting the height, I was sliding the cover up to read the scale, but after the ride, I was reading the scale with the cover in place. However, the seatpost actually slipped down by 5 mm at 6-7 Nm. For the time being, I will adjust the saddle height and check the torque before each ride. ;D

3
Happy New Year! (The date has already changed here in Japan)

The frame arrived at the end of November, and I built it up in early December. Since then, I've enjoyed a couple of weekend rides on it.

My previous bike was a 2008 Scott CR1 Team, so this was my first time assembling a disc‑brake road bike. But by following Shimano's dealer manual and some bike‑shop YouTube videos, I was able to complete the build without any confusion. Of course, I also referred to LC's videos and zealot128's videos—thank you for those.
Before assembly, I checked the inside of the frame with an endoscope, and it was very clean with no burrs.

The ride quality is excellent. Not too soft, not too stiff—neither boring nor punishing. It hits a perfect balance for me. The wheels certainly help, but cruising at around 40 kph feels easy, and I can really sense the aerodynamic efficiency. With my previous bike, riding into a headwind sometimes made me not want to ride at all, but with the LCR018‑D, I still feel like going out even when it's windy.
The paintwork is also fantastic.

My only personal complaint is the seat clamp. As others have mentioned, it's difficult to tighten with a preset‑type torque wrench. So I've ended up using the beam‑type torque wrench that came with my wife's Canyon Ultimate. Even with Finish Line Fiber Grip and tightening it to 7 8 Nm, the seatpost still slips about 5 mm after a ride.
(There was no problem if I tightened it to 8Nm.)

That said, I'm very satisfied overall. I had my friends test‑ride it as well, and it was very well received. I plan to take good care of this bike.
Wishing everyone great rides ahead!


<specs>
bike: Lightcarbon LCR018-D
size: 50 (I'm 1.71 m tall with a 81 cm inseam.)
handlebars: 400*80
seat post: 0 mm offset
painting: same painting design as Eurobike 2025's Instagram
option: 3D saddle, bottle cage BC205 *2, BB(Gineyea T47 30 mm)
group set: shimano Ultegra(R8170)
crank: Lexon carbon crank(162.5 mm, 30 mm shaft) w/ Sigeyi axo power meter
derailleur hanger: direct hanger(M12*1.0 thread pitch)
  https://ourl.jp/lgyak
wheel: 8LIEN L5W
tire: Continental GP5000 700*30C
tube: Panaracer purple lite(TPU)
pedal: Shimano PD-ES600

Total weight: 7.5 kg(w/pedal and light mount(Fr & Rr), w/o lights, Cycle computers, tools, and water bottles)
  frame: 1046 g
  fork: 435 g (before cutting)
  seat post  w/bracket: 185 g
  handlebars: 313 g
  saddle: 157g
  bottle cage w/o bolt (BC205 *1): 21 g

I imagine only a very small number of people reading this thread are based in Japan, but for reference, shipping by EMS Express took about one week.
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By the way, someone here was looking for titanium replacement thru‑axles—did you ever find any? I've been searching as well but haven't had any luck. The LC ones are already light enough, so I'm thinking I might just order another set while they're still available.

4
Thanks for the info! So it's 50mm-16T. I think I'll go ahead and buy the tool you recommended.

5
I bought the one supply by LC and I torqued it at 30 N.m (recommandation between 25-35 N.m) without any problem. I used those tools. It helps to avoid scratching the BB or the frame :
https://a.aliexpress.com/_Exn8jwu

Hi everyone, this is my first post—nice to meet you all!

I placed an order for a size 50 frame in mid-August. The frame should be finished this month, and LC is expected to paint it in the Euro2025 color scheme next month.

Regarding the bottom bracket, I also ordered the 24mm Shimano-compatible version from LC. Based on the image already uploaded in this thread, it appears to be the Gineyea T478624. Referring to the specs on the following website, I assumed a 49mm-16T tool would be required:http://www.gineyea.cc/show-37-769.html (For some reason, I couldn’t find any T47 info on the English version of the site.)

However, I’m a bit confused because the HAPPE Bicycle T47 BB Tool that Mr. BeR shared doesn’t seem to include a 49mm-16T compatible option. Does anyone know the actual outer diameter of the BB interface where the tool makes contact?

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