Looks a good hit to the head tube. From the scratches it appears to be before its packed. Cant scratch it like that with all the wrapping around it. I wonder if Paul packs them himself or its done elsewhere. I think its been dropped while hanging up from its triangle.

Looked everywhere for a 2 wire - one sheath solution but no good. I think you are going to zip tie them together.

Yes my through axle nut fits in the space. Its not deeply recessed so to speak but sits in fine. I puchased the through axle from Peter.

Yes I have seen others run the dropper post cable past the rear shock and up. There is a photo in this thread somewhere of it

http://forums.mtbr.com/29er-bikes/dual-suspension-chinese-carbon-29er-737952.html

I ran mine out of the exit hole near left side of crank and then up the down post using cable ties and a cable guide provided with the dropper purchase. You will need a long cable for this though (default length just long enough with a small frame)

I have a single chain ring setup so cant help with the derailler.

OK the creaking and clicking is fixed. It was the odd washer in the wishbone pivot (right side when riding the bike) that was rubbing against the outside part of the bearing. Faaaarrkkkk.

Ive emailed Peter from Carbonspeed for another set of washers or washer.

Below find the temporary fix. 2 stainless steel washers together makes the correct width and general size and shape.

Might have found it - not yet tested though because Ill have to buy a new washer of similiar size. Check below for a photo of the odd washer from the 4 I removed from the wishbone pivot near seatpost. Oversized and seems to be taking a bit of a beating. The 4 washers in the back pivots are fine (well there are 2 types).

Also does anyone know on which side the washer goes that has the the raised centre? There is a photograph of it below.

None of those. Checked. Its getting worse again after a ride today. Ill pull all the linkages apart tomorrow and grease and see what happens. Hard to pin point this one.

So the bike has done a few kms on dirt, probably around 400 ish.

I started to notice some creaking and clicking noises when I put some power into the crank. It felt like it was near the crank area so pulled the crank out, retightned the BSA and also pulled the main pivot joint out, greased and replaced. The noise has gone when applying power while seated but if I stand up and give it more power I hear the same noise again.

OK I havent done the 101 - make sure to grease all suspension joints before riding advise so Ill give that a go when I recieve the torque wrench.

Before I go looking for the noise, anyone else had this issue?

Im thinking that as I apply pressure on the frame, it flexes the rear triangle a bit and that makes something rub? Reason is that the suspension makes no noise when going up and down (can bunny hop and bounce around without noise). Therefore it feels that a more lateral action causes the noise.

I did notice when I pulled the main pivot out (the one through the frame near the crank) it has some paint on the outer part of the alloy sleeve in the frame so whatever has contact with that (and it is now greased) might cause noise when it rubs against it but there is no noise in this area when the suspension is active without power to the crank.

Great build. I did mine for about AU $3600 and weighs around 11kg. Could go lighter with different tyres, front forks and seat and get it down another 1kg but Im happy with what I have.

You can run 3 cables internally, exiting for the rear shock, forward and rear derailer. If you are keen (and Id assume voids warranty) drill a hole in the exit point of the inner routing tube that exits near the top of the crank then you could run a stealth seat dropper. A big call though. Otherwise you will need to run the seat dropper post table externally all the way.

Jump over to here for a good discussion on what you can do http://forums.mtbr.com/29er-bikes/dual-suspension-chinese-carbon-29er-737952-66.html

If you are going to buy the frame from Peter, buy the carbon rims with the Novatec hubs as well. The rims have been great so far. 

I ran the dropper post cable through what would usually be used for the front derailer internal route and then ran it outside up to the seat. I wish I could run it concealed but was in no position to drill a hole in and through the internal route exit - which was suggested. If you did then you could run a cable inside right to the dropper over the crank.

Images of the bike.

In regards to the rear shock, Ill reverse it and allow the cable to run straight. Others have done this and have confirmed with FOX that it does not affect the shock at all.

I was in a recent race and this bike performed perfectly.

I had a look at my bushings and not as bad as yours. Although at approx 17mm in length and 8mm in diameter, the bush is almost through and about a millimetre or 2 short of reaching the other side. So some of its end is holding the carbon part but not all of it. The total diameter that the bushing needs to go through is approx 20mm. I think a 21mm bushing would be to long. I tightened all the bushings and bolts for all the linkages and it feels I still have flex. It is a little better but not by much. I should upload a video to youtube but I need another pair of hands to help with the recording.

Can you keep us updated on what happens with Peter regarding new bushs, bolts and rear triangle. I to might need longer bushings to get it right.

Ordered a set of carbon rims and frame from Peter at Xmcarbonspeed. It took a while for the frame to arrive. Apparently my size (15.5") had to be made up and matt painted. However everything arrived including my order of handlebars, stem and Neco Headset.

Ended up going a 1*10 - 32t on the front, and 36t the biggest on the back. Now this could either come back to bite me with some of the steeper trails around here or I just need to harden up a bit. Everything around here can be done with 1*11 and a friend has my setup and can ride the local trails OK. Time will tell. Worse case I downsize the front to a 28 or 30t. So I ordered a double chainring XT crankset with a 11 to 36t cluster and swapped the chainrings on the front for a single narrow wide.

So the build list is

2016 Xfusion RL2 slide forks (however a little heavy but strong)
Xfusion CLX2 CTD rear shock with remote (second hand)
XT drive chain and shifter
Rockshock dropper seatpost with remote lockout
Hygia elite brakes (from my old bike)

All of it went together fairly well. No real headaches except the stem from Peter needed some heavy sanding to make it fit the steering tube.

I couldnt fault the frame. It looked free of any defects and the inner cable guides were clean and easy to thread.

The rims look and feel good. Again no defects and seem to be laced true and the Norco hubs should be OK.

I havent taken it for a spin on the trails yet. A quick run around town and I feel well seated and balanced on it. I have been riding a Merida 96 26" since 2009 and I have now realised just how bad I was positioned on that bike. I feel like my weight is positioned perfectly between the wheels unlike the Merida where the weight was more the back wheel. Anyway the next trail ride Ill find out.

Just a note that there is another thread about a defect in the triangles bushing size and length thus creating flex in the triangle. I did notice some flex but I dont know what is acceptable and was is not. Ill have a look at the bushings today and see if I also have the incorrect bushing.

Would like to upload some photos but getting the error the upload folder is full, contact Admin.

Faaaak I only just built up a CS-36 from Peter. I did notice the flex in the rear triangle if I push/pull from the top of the wheel but Im not sure what is right and what is not. For example with a 2.2 rear wheel, I can nearly touch the rubber against the triangle. However I can see most of the triangle flex and I have no "play" in any of the linkages and they look firm but now that you have found your bushing bolt problem Ill have a look at mine.