Looks a good hit to the head tube. From the scratches it appears to be before its packed. Cant scratch it like that with all the wrapping around it. I wonder if Paul packs them himself or its done elsewhere. I think its been dropped while hanging up from its triangle.

Yes my through axle nut fits in the space. Its not deeply recessed so to speak but sits in fine. I puchased the through axle from Peter.

Yes I have seen others run the dropper post cable past the rear shock and up. There is a photo in this thread somewhere of it

http://forums.mtbr.com/29er-bikes/dual-suspension-chinese-carbon-29er-737952.html

I ran mine out of the exit hole near left side of crank and then up the down post using cable ties and a cable guide provided with the dropper purchase. You will need a long cable for this though (default length just long enough with a small frame)

I have a single chain ring setup so cant help with the derailler.

Might have found it - not yet tested though because Ill have to buy a new washer of similiar size. Check below for a photo of the odd washer from the 4 I removed from the wishbone pivot near seatpost. Oversized and seems to be taking a bit of a beating. The 4 washers in the back pivots are fine (well there are 2 types).

Also does anyone know on which side the washer goes that has the the raised centre? There is a photograph of it below.

So the bike has done a few kms on dirt, probably around 400 ish.

I started to notice some creaking and clicking noises when I put some power into the crank. It felt like it was near the crank area so pulled the crank out, retightned the BSA and also pulled the main pivot joint out, greased and replaced. The noise has gone when applying power while seated but if I stand up and give it more power I hear the same noise again.

OK I havent done the 101 - make sure to grease all suspension joints before riding advise so Ill give that a go when I recieve the torque wrench.

Before I go looking for the noise, anyone else had this issue?

Im thinking that as I apply pressure on the frame, it flexes the rear triangle a bit and that makes something rub? Reason is that the suspension makes no noise when going up and down (can bunny hop and bounce around without noise). Therefore it feels that a more lateral action causes the noise.

I did notice when I pulled the main pivot out (the one through the frame near the crank) it has some paint on the outer part of the alloy sleeve in the frame so whatever has contact with that (and it is now greased) might cause noise when it rubs against it but there is no noise in this area when the suspension is active without power to the crank.

You can run 3 cables internally, exiting for the rear shock, forward and rear derailer. If you are keen (and Id assume voids warranty) drill a hole in the exit point of the inner routing tube that exits near the top of the crank then you could run a stealth seat dropper. A big call though. Otherwise you will need to run the seat dropper post table externally all the way.

Jump over to here for a good discussion on what you can do http://forums.mtbr.com/29er-bikes/dual-suspension-chinese-carbon-29er-737952-66.html

If you are going to buy the frame from Peter, buy the carbon rims with the Novatec hubs as well. The rims have been great so far. 

Images of the bike.

In regards to the rear shock, Ill reverse it and allow the cable to run straight. Others have done this and have confirmed with FOX that it does not affect the shock at all.

I was in a recent race and this bike performed perfectly.

Ordered a set of carbon rims and frame from Peter at Xmcarbonspeed. It took a while for the frame to arrive. Apparently my size (15.5") had to be made up and matt painted. However everything arrived including my order of handlebars, stem and Neco Headset.

Ended up going a 1*10 - 32t on the front, and 36t the biggest on the back. Now this could either come back to bite me with some of the steeper trails around here or I just need to harden up a bit. Everything around here can be done with 1*11 and a friend has my setup and can ride the local trails OK. Time will tell. Worse case I downsize the front to a 28 or 30t. So I ordered a double chainring XT crankset with a 11 to 36t cluster and swapped the chainrings on the front for a single narrow wide.

So the build list is

2016 Xfusion RL2 slide forks (however a little heavy but strong)
Xfusion CLX2 CTD rear shock with remote (second hand)
XT drive chain and shifter
Rockshock dropper seatpost with remote lockout
Hygia elite brakes (from my old bike)

All of it went together fairly well. No real headaches except the stem from Peter needed some heavy sanding to make it fit the steering tube.

I couldnt fault the frame. It looked free of any defects and the inner cable guides were clean and easy to thread.

The rims look and feel good. Again no defects and seem to be laced true and the Norco hubs should be OK.

I havent taken it for a spin on the trails yet. A quick run around town and I feel well seated and balanced on it. I have been riding a Merida 96 26" since 2009 and I have now realised just how bad I was positioned on that bike. I feel like my weight is positioned perfectly between the wheels unlike the Merida where the weight was more the back wheel. Anyway the next trail ride Ill find out.

Just a note that there is another thread about a defect in the triangles bushing size and length thus creating flex in the triangle. I did notice some flex but I dont know what is acceptable and was is not. Ill have a look at the bushings today and see if I also have the incorrect bushing.

Would like to upload some photos but getting the error the upload folder is full, contact Admin.