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Messages - cycloholic

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1
Did you choose white gloss?

Yes - it was white gloss. They are excellent quality. Note that is nicer to have proper decals applied under clear gloss paint, but this way you can change the decals in the future if you get bored.

2
Where did you get the decals? Did you have to attach them with a certain paste?

The decals are actually vinyl self adhesive lettering. You can design them online here...

www.vinylletteringonline.co.uk/lettering-designer

3
If it's a flat smooth course, the system weight should make hardly any difference. It's just about power, aero and rolling resistance.

If it's hilly, that's a differnt matter.

4


My finished built LC018-D weighing in at 8.050kg with pedals (but before the bar tape was fitted). Not built to be particularly light weight, but just to do long endurance miles. I asked LC to paint the frame Ferrari Red with no graphics, but when I got it, I felt it looked a bit bare without anything, so I named the bike Hardknott after my favourite cycling pass in the Lake district. (If you know it, you'll know why!).

So far, I have only done about 200km which is enough time to say it's comfortable to ride, but certainly not the fastest bike I've ever ridden. The frame feels stiff enough for my power output, despite the internal storage. I have not suffered any seatpost clamping issues, but since my post is painted, the extra paint thickness added may take up some slack.

The build process went smoothly. This was my first full bike build and I found the internal routing not to be an issue. The only issue I faced was paint over spray on the front caliper mount which I carefully removed with a scalpel. I suspect that the rear caliper mount is not 100% flat and so the rear caliper sits a fraction off true. For this I will be taking the bike to a bike shop to face the mounting properly. Otherwise, I cannot fault the LC frame. The external part of Di2 cable for the front derailleur needed to be routed carefully with an extra anchoring point to avoid touching the tyre.

Here is the full spec'...

LC018-D frameset in Ferrari Red - size 52. PPF and Hardknott graphic added.
Ultegra di2 Groupset 50/34 chairings and 11/34 cassette
Brake discs - Shimano Dura Ace RT-CL900-160 (160mm) (x2)
Caliper spacer/adaptor for 160mm rotor (SM-MA-R160D/D)
Chain - Shimano Dura Ace CN-M9100
Saddle - Selle Italia SLR Boost Gravel Superflow TI 316 saddle
Brooks England Cambium handlebar tape (Natural colour)
Bottom Bracket - Token BB47V24 TBT T47 Inboard
Headset bearings - Enduro ACB 4545 150 SS Stainless Steel Bearings
Wheels -  Light Carbon 240DB-UCX30-340-Ray with Sapim spokes ( + extra for brass nipples)
Tyres - MICHELIN Pro 5 Tubeless Classic 700C x 35
Rim tape - Muc-Off  (RBV2709) (half a roll)
Vales - Click Core
Valve - Valve cores bodies 60mm (rainbow)
Assioma PRO MX-2
Hood top spacers for Ultegra shifter tops
Titanium bolt - Handlebar top (x1)
Titanium bolt - Handlebar - steerer clamp (x2)
Titanium bolt - Front durailluer mount to frame (x2)
TitaniumTorx  bolt - Front brake caliper to frame M5x12 (x2)
Titanium Torx bolt - Rear brake caliper to frame M5x35 (x2) [one cut down 2mm]
Titanium bolt - M5x12 bottle mounts (x6)
Titanium bolts for saddle (x2)
Aluminium M5x12x1 washers for caliper mounts
Rainbow effect handlebar end caps

5
Is this the new updated seat-post that will prevent slippage?

That seatpost appears to be different to mine. I received my frame in December 2025. Mine has the textured area only on front edge - you might be able to see it in my picture. The one you show in your pic has texture all the way aroundso  will probably offer more resistance to slipping.

Incidentally, I have had no issues with slipage. I only torqued to 7nm. Maybe the paint film thickness has helped.


6
Anyone know the specs of the saddle clamp bolt and also the saddle rail bolts? Quite soft bolt heads that are already rounding. Want to replace with titanium. Thanks

For the rails I used the M5x25 bolts from AliExpress...

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32859827954.html

7
What is the size of the bolt for replacement? I think i need to order

For the saddle mount, I got Titanium M5 (25mm long) Wanyfa bolts from AliExpress.
www.aliexpress.com/item/32857143214.html?spm=a2g0o.order_detail.order_detail_item.9.bf43f19cMnn85S

8
I just remembered that yours is the frame with the painted seatpost. How has that been working out? Do you feel like the paint has been a factor in fitment? Is the interface with carbon paste and the painted seatpost fine?

Works fine, though have not been out on a bumpy road yet. Will keep you posted (pun intended!).

9
Has anyone tried using an alternative UDH with this frame? I'm sure I saw a Framesandgear one being used by someone amongst the last 117 pages. I am looking for a little more clearance for a larger cassette.

10
Yes - slightly different angle.

11
I know some on here have reported issues with the seatpost not clamping correctly. I have just put mine together and I noticed that the clamp 'wedge' as supplied from LC seemed like it was constructed incorrectly! The clamp is made of three triangle wedges and the one in the middle seemed upsidedown in my eyes. I reversed this as shown in my picture below. On the left is the clamp as supplied, and on the right is the clamp after I rotated the center wedge. In my mind this would give a better spread of clamping force on the seatpost. I'm not sure if this is the cause of the problem others have experienced, but maybe worth a look. I have had a short ride on mine and I have no issues with my seatpost.


12
A last question to the people from EU that has bought the frame (I live in Spain). LC says that in the shipping costs are included all taxes (they call it Duty Free shipping). It is true or do you have payed some additional fees?

Thank you!

They sent this to me in the UK in a way that did not involve any extra tax. I am not sure if they can guaranty 100% that it will be free of tax.

13
Does anyone have a idea or webshop where I can get a good replacement bolt for the zero offset seat post saddle clamp. Preferably a torx one. That might last longer with the worse angle for the torque wrench.

I replaced mine for titanium bolts - not to save 2g (although that's nice!), but because I think titanium is less likely to round off. I got them from AliExpress. I went for hex key heads so I can use the 'ball' end of the allen key to tighten up 95% of the way and then fully torque with the proper end. Not using a torque wrench here to avoid damage to the seatpost.

14
I received my frame today and I'm wondering about the spacer that is included.
As you can probably understand from this question, I'm not a professional bike mechanic  ;D

Anyone can tell where this spacer should be placed?

From prevous discussions on this thread, I think the conclusion is that it is needed sometimes - depending on paint film thickness on the frame. Try a 'dry' build with handlebars torqued down and then examin the gap at the top of the head tube. Make a judgement wheather to use the spacer based on the gap you see. When I tried this without the spacer there was a slight rub when turning the handlebar, so I put the spacer in and now it's perfect.

15
I looked everywhere for replacement axels, but could not find any the same. They have a different thread pitch from front to rear which, I thought, was odd. Anyway, the axels provided seem good quality and lightweight so I am happy not to keep them.

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