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Messages - dedroo

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1
Since you're in Canada, Taobao direct is probably cheaper than AliExpress by a good bit, and also a lot more brands available.

Thanks, I'll give it a try. If you have any suggestion or links to send me, I'll check.

2
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Looking for Gravel frame
« on: August 25, 2026, 06:35:30 PM »
Hi,

I am looking to build a gravel bike in the next few months and I can't decide which frame to chose.
I want
-Frame below 1500$ CAD,
-Nice painting and possibly decals if it looks good
-Has to fit at least 50mm tire
-A frame that has made it's proof
-A tool box if possible
-Need to have lot's of screw to hold bags and stuff.
-Would like to order through aliexpress if possible. I like the coupons there and prices are always a bit better for me.

For my measurment
-Inseam = 83 cm
-Height = 174 cm
-Torso = 50 cm
-Arm lenght = 66 cm
-I am comfortable with low stack bike.

I currently ride a 2017 Devinci leo Sl size (L)57 . This bike is on my upper limit. I have a 70mm stem to compensate the large side of the bike. My saddle also cannot be move forward, it's on the maximum setting. I also ride a Winow tt-119 (56) and on this bike, I am very comfortable and there is no issue. The saddle is also on the maximum setting, but I feel great when riding.

So far, I found the Tideace that have 2 gravel frame that are interesting me. https://tideacebike.com/collections/gravel-bike-frame
The GV201 NOAH : I would like to order that bike (54), but the 400mm reach is even longer than my current (57) Devinci reach of 389mm. Even if I go to size (52) the reach only drop a few mm.
The Cr-060 : This one, still in (54) has a reach of 379,5mm which would suit me better. It is supposed to be 300-400g lighter, but at a cost of about 200-300$ CAD more than the GV201.

I won't touch BXT frame, saw too many issue in the past.
Meinier also make a gravel frame but it doesnt have much info and review.

Any help will be appreciated.

Thanks!

3
I had this issue too, for almost three years, on two bikes. And the issue is crappy expander plug. You can fix it by increase grip by increased surface contact area or better surface. Or get both: https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/en/pro-carbon-plug-ud-long-bike-headset-expander - this solved the issue once and forever.

Really, send it to the bin and and get a good one.

Thanks, I will get new plugs. Are you applying grease on that middle bolt before tightening?

4
Could it be slipping because I didnt apply grease in the bolt thread and my 10-11NM is actually 6-7NM ?

5
There could be few reasons why it's happening. The design of the expander might be not optimal, the bolt of the expander might be a bit tight to move so you put less torque to it than you think. Also the inside of the steerer tube might very slippery.

If there is a smooth slippery clear coat inside there steerer very lightly sanding it gives the compression plug a bit more grip. I've also used a piece of inner tube on top of the compression plug for more grip.

But you also commented that the plug lifted up while riding which is not normal. That sounds like the stem is not properly staying in place. After the stem is tightened the plug absolutely shouldn't move. Does the headset have play after the compression plug has slided up after riding?

As others said after the stem is tightened the compression plug is not holding the headset in compression anymore and should not move.

The plug probably lifted when I did tight the headset. I did not check right before leaving, but only after my ride to see if anything happened. So I doubt it did move 1 mm during my ride... that's my mistake. Because right now, when I press my handle bar from right to left and test with brake, it is still tight. No play occurs. There is a bit of flex in the handlebar, but nothing seems to move at the stem! I even removed the torq from the pre load and the stem is still tight in place. Also. It doesnt move my plug now when I give it 1-2 NM. Maybe its because the stem is tight against it.


6
I would not want the plug to slip before tightening the stem as it would lessen the pre-load. It seems you had successfully torque the plugs to that point before and had not cracked the steerer tube, so I'd do it again. As I said, after you tighten the stem, I'd loosen the plug and torque it to spec. After that, I'd recheck the torque on the stem bolts and keep the top cap loose without it falling off. You don't need a pre-load at that point.

Perhaps a more fundamental question is, why are the expansion plugs slipping? 2Nm at the top cap is not a lot for it to pull up a tightened plug. Are you reading your torque wrench correctly? Are you using the right diameter compression plug?

I am using a torq wrench and reading it as I should. From what I understand. The plug is also fine, I double checked the spec and it's the riggt size. I just ordered a plug that comes with a sleeve so the force is spread evenly on the fork tube. Some people mentionned that maybe the plug itself isnr expanding evenly right now so I am just torqing on the bolt inside which is "stuck". So my 10 NM could be 7-8NM on the plug and the 2-3 last NM wouldnt be effective.

Now, I am just worried to crack the tube if I release the plug once the stem is already tight. For now I let it like it was, about 1mm outside of the tube.

7
The compression plug serves two purposes. First, the plug and top cap is used to preload the stem on the steerer tube before the stem is tighten. Once the stem is tightened, the pre-load function is done and no longer needed. So, for instance, you should be able to remove the top cap without affecting how the stem/steerer tube/head tube connection. Second, the compression plug supports the inside of the steerer tube against the outside pressure of the stem.

In your case, once you've tightened the stem to spec, I'd loosen both the top cap and plug, tighten the plug to spec, and replace the top cap without tightening it to the point that it pulls the plug out.

Ok, so I would be adding an extra step. I could let the plug slide a little bit then tight my stem, but would it be dangerous if I untight my plug to drop it down a few more mm? otherwise maybe I can just tighten everything and just loosen the top cap so the plug doesnt have tension anymore.

8
after a quick ride at 10-11 NM, the plug lifted about 1,5mm from the fork tube. Stem is still super tight. I saw some compression plug that comes with a sleeve that you put inside the fork, maybe someone used this before.

9
I had similar issue. I overtight compression plug and nothing happend as long as you tight it up with tighting stem in the same time. In such a case, the walls of the steerer tube rest against the walls of the stem.

But how do you apply pre load if the stem is already a bit tight on the steer tube?

10
Winow tt119 and their cockpit. The issue is really with the comprrssion plug actually.

11
Yes. I have 2 different ones, tried again earlier at 8nm and it slips. I really need 10-11nm to make it tight.

12
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Compression plug slipping
« on: June 24, 2026, 12:20:44 PM »
Hello,

My compression plug keeps slipping when it's at the recommanded torq (5-7NM), my top cap bolt with pull it when I try to remove the play. I'm below 2NM at the top cap bolt.
The only way I found to stop making it slip was to either use the 30mm one at about 8-10 NM, or use my 80mm plug at about 10-12NM. I tried carbon paste and cleaning all the surfaces, but it didnt help much. Now my worry is that it is over tighten and that it could break during a ride due to the tightness.
For reference, I am using the aliexpress compression plug offered by 3-4 brand (they all look similar).
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005610090649.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.3.38c2WC0qWC0qEl&algo_pvid=d270c083-a21c-4869-ab9c-f900e900f669&algo_exp_id=d270c083-a21c-4869-ab9c-f900e900f669-0&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22order%22%3A%222484%22%2C%22spu_best_type%22%3A%22price%22%2C%22eval%22%3A%221%22%2C%22fromPage%22%3A%22search%22%7D&pdp_npi=6%40dis%21CAD%213.52%213.52%21%21%212.42%212.42%21%402103110517823197372476645e5bfd%2112000033740997428%21sea%21CA%21909343360%21X%211%210%21n_tag%3A-29919%3Bd%3A18ca7f7f%3Bm03_new_user%3A-29895&curPageLogUid=dUPsBXB7taaT&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A%7Cx_object_id%3A1005005610090649%7C_p_origin_prod%3A#nav-review

Thanks for helping me clear that up.

13
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Winow tt119 fork tube
« on: June 24, 2026, 06:01:59 AM »
I did and they told me that it's just esthetic imperfections. Most of chinese fork looks like that online. My other one is also similar.

14
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Winow tt119 fork tube
« on: June 23, 2026, 07:13:37 AM »
Hello, I received my Winow fork and was wondering if the fork tube irregularities are safe to ride on. Tap test is fine. It's just that I can see the mold line which are about 0,5mm deep at some spot. The part that worry me the most is where the stem clamp. From the inside, it is perfect, but that vertical line have about 0,25mm deep. Could it be a lack of resin?
Everything looks good once installed. I also noticed that alot of chinese fork looks like that on aliexpress and alibaba.

Thank you

15
Hi,

Is it normal that my internal cables from brakes (I assume) are keeping my handlebars straight. I can turn right and left like usual, but when I release it. It's almost going back to straight position. There is lots of room in my cables. I did give some play to them and the issue remain the same. I did add a video for clarity.

Also, on the second picture. Do I need to cut this housing straight at the brake lever and push it back when installing the lever. Or do I need to pull it by 1-2 cm inside the handlebars to give some play to the cables.

Thank you!

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