Small update: if all goes well, I'm going to buy a gently used x-fusion 100mm slide 29 with 15mm axle (Steerer tube uncut!). It's a little heavier but is adjustable to 120mm, seems to get great reviews from buyers, and looks extremely easy to service. I'm not sure how much it'll matter on a non-G2 Trek bike but it is a 51mm offset fork. It should be ok.

I think I will. Never really gave much thought to a really wide tire. Fat bikes are a thing up here, because MN. I live in the Twin City area and they're all over. Most people riding them look tired all the time lol.

Btw, Carbon_Dude, I did a comparison between the Shimano parts I spec'd and the SRAM GX 1x11. My Frankenstein setup is marginally lighter. I used actual weights on all parts between both sets when possible. I still lose out on the top end compared to the SRAM setup up. That's not that big a deal to me.

On my beater bike, I'm pretty much only on the 44t chain ring on the pea gravel trail I ride for exercise. I'm generally on the 13t, sometimes the 15t for a break, and only on the 11t when there's a downhill or I need to pass someone for whatever reason. I've been over the gear ratios more times than I care to admit, and with the 1x11 setup I'll lose the 11t and 13t top end if I use a 32t 1x11. My new lowest gear would sit between the 26t and 34t of my current setup, and I'm ok with that as the 22x34 is usually too steep anyways, and the 26t is a little too tall. The 1x11 progression is extremely close to how I currently use the gears on the trails I ride now.

Man, I talk too much, lol. I'm passionate about getting things right the first time and want to make informed decisions before spending $2k on a bike I have to build myself.

Interesting, thanks for the heads up. I figured there would be some variation, I've seen advertised weights go both ways and things certain add up quick.

I've contemplated running a solid fork, mainly for cost concerns if I'm being honest. Second, it would be great to lose an addition 2lbs from the front of the bike. I haven't ridden a solid forked bike since I was 15, lol. I suppose I could use a solid fork now to save money initially, then buy a suspension fork later when time allows for a screaming deal on a new or used fork.

I tried looking at the 15mm carbon 29er fork on CS but the measurements are too small to read. Specifically, the tire clearance and offset.

decisions, decisions lol.

Hi Ned. I went back and read your post. Thanks for the welcome. Yes, its wordy, lol. I felt like I had to explain why I was here beyond the inexpensive alternative.

Your video was one of the items i used as research material. Thanks for taking the time to make it.

Thanks for the seat post suggestion. Arm reach is something I have to keep an eye on. I have a longer reach than you do, 75". Long sleeve shirts and coats are a real pita. I need to update the build sheet, as I spec'd an SP4 from CS because it has a 25mm setback. Way ahead of you on that one.

Hmm, I've never used a riser bar. Whats the rise? I'm still out of shape compared to some (most lol) so a more upright position would be helpful I think. Climbing might suffer if its a larger rise. Shoot me a PM about the bar!

Lol, fair enough. So long as were splitting hairs, the entire line save for saint/zee uses twin 25mm pistons and the DH calipers use 16/18mm pistons per side, with the larger piston in the back for better pad wear due to better force dispersion across the pad.

Thanks, both of you. The brakes decision is admittedly a knee jerk reaction to the craptastic tektro brakes on my marlin now. the front failed on me on a medium (to me) downhill section and a tree was gracious enough to stop me from going over a 40' drop. Both the bike and myself were fine. After going home (I still rode the trail complete lol), I did some research and found that the novela brakes have 3 little ball bearings that sit in grooved ramps which act on the piston. When it wears out, the little balls wear make grooves on the back side of part that rotates and allows them to cam over resulting in FULL LOSS of braking.

So yeah, Zee brakes are over kill. The trails here in the TC area aren't particularly full of downhill areas but I like peace of mind. The lighter discs are more to help with modulation. Also, I've read across a few forums that the XT brakes are great but have less modulation compared to the Zee brakes. It makes since considering Zees have twice the pistons.

Good point on the disc size. I'm not totally sure 160/160 would work for me. I mean, honestly it probably would but I tend to push myself as hard as I can the entire trail. It's not hard to do really, lol. Still, I very rarely coast. I like to go fast! Also, I'd like to know I have reserve braking power if I need it. I do think i'll go 180/160 instead. That'll save around 70 grams, and a few bucks.

Concerning a wider bar, I'm not sure. the 680 I'm using now seems fine. I've experimented by grabbing the ends of the bar on my current setup and I didn't notice much of a difference. The bar I spec'd comes 680 or 710. I could grab the 710 and try it out. I don't think 15mm per side is gonna bother me and if it does, I can cut it down.

Thanks!

I have considered SRAM before but it seems to be a price penalty for the hubs and I've constantly read that the Shimano stuff shifts better. Not that SRAM is bad by any means, just that the Shimano stuff is a bit more refined. I'll take a second look at SRAM though. It's a bit pricier by comparison but there are weight savings to be had and it's every bit as reliable.

I considered painting the frame but I see so many UD frames or 50/50 painted UD frames that 3K almost seems the minority. I really wish I could've had everything matching in 12K weave, that would've been ideal as the weave stands out and looks great IMO.

hi all. im in the planing stages of building up a -057 frame. id like to list my pile of parts and would like to have some feedback or suggestions. thanks!

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CS-057 frame: approx 1270g (all carbon components will be classic 3k weave)
Neco headset: approx 65g
Wheelset:        approx 1480g
Funn 80mm arrow head stem: 130g (100mm)
Funn 710mm flame one bar: 200g
Zee brakes: 306g x 2 - i know there are lighter brakes but im 195lbs and i use brakes as an afterthought because im dumb
alligator starlite rotors: 180mm = 120g, 160mm = 90g - i know these will reduce the zee's effectiveness slightly. at least, thats my expectation. thats the reason for the larger size.
shimano XT 1x11 drivetrain:
Sunrace MX8 11-42: 401g This cassette is cheaper and slightly lighter than any of the 3 XT m8000 cassettes
derailleur: 273g 
shifter: 126g
chain: 257g
cranks: approx 600g w/170mm arms
AB black series 32t chainring: 46g (stock is 89g for 32t) $10 price difference between the 2. no brainer imo
XTR M980 bottom bracket: 89g
front and rear thru axles, non qr: apprx 40g each
esi chunky grips: 60g
carbon seat: 130g
dmr seat clamp: 15g
SP4 seatpost: 200g
rockshox reba rl 120mm: 1664g
headset spacers: 20g at most
ardent 2.4 exo/tr: 800g
ikon 2.35: 695g

total: 9432g approx, or 20.8lbs

im guessing cutting the steerer tube and trimming seatpost will help slightly. rest of the bike is right where i want it parts wise. Then, itll be a waiting game. =]

Peter returned my email this morning. Yay! I have about a week before I can start purchasing parts.

Hello. Warning, lots of reading ahead. Get coffee or a snickers.

For the ADHD types, LD;DR: I'm old. Bought a bike a few years ago, didn't fit me well and I broke stuff on it because its a green trail bike that I was attempting double red diamond obstacles with while being out of shape for that kind of riding. Now, on to the rest of it...

I have recently came back to bike riding after a 17 year break. I bought a 2013 Trek Marlin in mid 2012 when I was stationed in Korea. I think I paid $600 out the door at the time. Used it mainly to commute on base and ride up things mainly because I could. I knew the fork sucked, I didn't need to do research for that. I took a break for about a year, because reasons.

When I started riding semi-regularly, I began to break things. First thing to go was the rear wheel. It's supposedly a double wall wheel. In reality, it's probably 2 sheets of paper. That, and I hit a small root at an odd angle which let the tire/rim kind of slide on it versus ride over it. Not quite a taco but close. That led me to go to a LBS for the first time.

They were not a Trek dealer but they were helpful anyways. The tech tried for 20 minutes for save the wheel but it just wouldn't take a shape other than "V". Because of his determination, I elected to purchase a rear wheel there. I informed the tech that I didn't need anything fancy because I'll just break it and that even at $200, that's a 1/3 of what I paid for the bike. I left it up to them to order what he saw fit. They gave me an AlexRims DP20 mounted on a Shimano M529 hub with unknown to me spokes. Knowing what I know now, it's a heavy wheel but fairly reliable and strong. Great for hambfisted noobs like me.

Next thing to fail were the plastic welgo pedals. Nope, I didn't break them, although I'm surprised I didn't take them and the cranks out at the same time. I wore out the bearings. They're not serviceable, as the loose ball bearings ride directly on the plastic itself. So I decided wisely to replace them. I could've bought whatever online but I decided to stop by the LBS from above and just pick up whatever platforms they had that were under $50. I settled on Giant originals since that's about all they had in stock. $42 later (not a bad price honestly, basically same as online), I paid for them and was about to walk out and the tech there asked if I had the bike with me. Of course I did, so he "made" me go get the back and they installed the pedals for me. He also ran through the gears, checked the torque on the crank arms, and lubed the seat post. It took about three extra minutes I suppose, but that's why people come back to the LBS. It's literally why I did.

So, why am I here on the chiner forums introducing myself by telling you about my beginner bike and how I can break things on it? Well, Apparently the beginner bike isn't cutting it for me so I want to build a more expensive bike and attempt to break it too.  That, and as I've learned about the hobby, I've come to understand a few things about my bike and how it's future underneath me truly does hinder me, beyond the base component level.

It's a 17.5" frame but I'm 6'1", 195lbs. It has a Specialized 110mm stem on it and a 9/4 690mm bontrager bar. To say there was a language barrier when I bought the bike would be an understatement. I attempted to tell them that the 19" bike felt better but I might want a shorter stem on it. They weren't pushy or anything. It was just awkward because we both stood there staring at each other trying to understand what the other guy was trying to convey, lol. Besides, I needed a bike and I was under time constraints when I bought it. What I have learned since is that I needed the 19" size. All I did was turn the 17.5" frame in to a 19" frame by the Korean bike shop putting an inch longer stem on it. I don't remember what the stock bar was, but the bonty on it now is definitely aftermarket and wider than the stocker. When I ride over an hour or so, my ass starts to hurt. I'm dumb and don't wear bike shorts, but my opinion is that if you're not riding really aggressive, your butt cheeks shouldn't ache. Also, the stock saddle seems to garner a universal hatred. Also, I have lower back stiffness on occasion and my hands frequently go numb. The last part doesn't have much to do with the bike as I have carpal tunnel in both hands. Not terribly so, but enough that certain things set it off. Basically, this bike doesn't fit me and I've over-ridden its' capabilities.

I've done a ton of research online about frame geometry and how certain disciplines require a certain frame setup. I've made mental notes and compares that to demo bikes to get an idea of what I want. Basically, I'm looking for a CS-057 19" frame with a 60-80mm stem and 700mm bars and a 1x11 shimano drivetrain (because sram incompatibility for hubs and the resulting increase in price is lame). I'm still not entirely sure how high I want my stem but I can dial that in when I initially build the bike, before I cut the steerer tube. I'm going to start a build thread very soon as I'm waiting on emails from Peter from XMCS for a frame, bitex wheelset, and miscellaneous other parts.