Quote from: Takiyaki on September 20, 2026, 06:46:41 PM
I think even a vanity project needs a clear vision. For example, to this day my favorite bike of all time was my total NYC hipster spec KHS Flite 100 fixie. If I did an N+1 vanity build, I'd recreate it in total weight weenie spec. I'd shoot to get it under 10lbs. I think you need to come up with an idea

You're right.
I guess it's endurance road bike for joy ride, no races.
Refitting what I have on components I have flying around. I guess I would just need some items of a SRAM AXS Groupset (like FD and 2x crankset as well as the rear stuff)
That means it won't be the lightest bike, but that's ok - I am not the lightest rider :-)

The LCR018 looks pretty good, actually somewhat similar to the FM326 with the frame design :-)

Quote from: Takiyaki on September 20, 2026, 01:03:20 PM
Im struggling to think what a whole new bike could do that your FM326 + a nice set of modern road wheels + tires could not. Only real wrinkle I see is FD + rear tire clearance but I feel like gravel FDs deal with that OK.

I don't have a FD on my gravel rig.
Instead I have the whole 1* 10-52 tooth range of the MTB rear derailleur which I very much love for off road hacking.

Sure, this would be a vanity project that I cannot approach with logic. Typical justification for n+1

Hey folks,

With help of this forum I acquired a Mondince FM326 Chinese Carbon Gravel bike and I am super happy with it.
Since I have some components lying around (endurance wheels, SRAM rival AXS shifter, cranks, ...), I am entertaining the idea of an n+1 bike for the next season.

I started reading some of the threads here, but I quickly lost track of what is going on.
My idea would be a road bike, potentially more endurance than race oriented.
It should have T47 bb standard and ideally a wider, more modern tire clearance.
What are you riding, what can you recommend and how does the geometry compare to known bikes?
For instance, my Mondince comes after a Mondraker Arid and that helped me bail down the geometry and told me a told about the bike setup.
I have seen Mondince has road bikes, too, but the feedback here in the forum wasn't too positive.

Quote from: RussJ on July 29, 2026, 01:15:57 PM
Nice build!! I have a question on the Ryet Unix bars you put on. I ordered the same bars for my FM326 frame but the compression rings they sent are either too low or too high. What did you do to over come this? I am assuming you had the same issue since you have the same frame bar combo. Thank you.

We had some discussion about headsets earlier in this thread, if you still want some opinions you need to go back a bit.
Personally
, I ended up buying some O rings on Amazon to close the small gap I had from using the  bearings that came from a PRO headset

Quote from: speigei on June 29, 2026, 03:49:20 PM
2. My frame came with a front derailleur mount, but I will be running 1x. Based on some pictures in this thread, some frames that also don't have a front derailleur have a some sort of replacement cover (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,6336.msg113690.html#msg113690), but most don't. To those with the cover: Was it included with your frame? Did you 3D print? Are these available as spares somewhere?
Thanks all!

The cover for 1by has been included in my delivery from Mondince.
I have no idea about 3d printing, but it should work since there is no load on this part ...

Quote from: kb_79 on June 16, 2026, 12:07:47 AM
Quick update! I asked Jack for the official FM316 geometry chart, and the numbers are pretty wild.
You were totally right about the "Forward Geo" inspiration, but looking at the Mondince chart, there is a massive and weird jump between the XS and the S:
Size XS: Reach 374 mm / Stack 559 mm
Size S: Reach 411 mm / Stack 563 mm
For comparison, the original Mondraker Arid only hits a 411 mm reach on their M/L size! A 411 mm reach for a Size S seems absolutely insane, especially for someone with my short wingspan (158 cm).

Do these Mondince numbers look legit to you, or is this a classic case of typos in a Chinese factory geo chart?
Assuming the 374 mm reach for the XS is accurate, it feels like it's the only viable option for my proportions, provided I ditch their 90mm integrated cockpit and run a separate 60/70mm stem instead.
What do you guys think? Am I reading this right? (Chart attached below).

I think someone here put the correct measurements into bike insights.
It's somewhere here on this thread in the early pages

https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=68ebe9f320822b001aabfdc6,68ebe9f320822b001aabfdc5

Quote from: kb_79 on June 15, 2026, 12:35:55 PM
Thanks for the heads-up on the Mondraker "Forward Geo" design! I completely missed that, but it makes total sense now.
The main reason I originally leaned toward the XS is my proportions: I'm 170cm with a 78cm inseam, but my wingspan is only 158cm. Having a short torso and short arms, my absolute biggest fear is being way too stretched out on drop bars.
But you're spot on—slapping a 90mm stem on a long-reach frame completely ruins the whole point of that geometry. Plus, dealing with toe-overlap on an XS on tight trails would drive me crazy.
If I follow your advice and step up to a Size S to get decent seatpost extension and front-wheel clearance, but stay with Mondince's 90mm integrated cockpit, the total reach is going to be way too long for my short arms.
Should I just ditch Mondince's integrated bar altogether, order the Size S frame, and source a separate 60mm or 70mm stem + gravel bars on my own? Or is this specific frame geo just a bad match for someone with my build?
Would love to get your take on this sizing puzzle. Cheers!

Well, I am about 180cm with 88 cm inseam, so my upper body is shorter as well. I run a M frame in Mondince dimensions, M/L for a Mondraker.
I have a non integrated cockpit as I was skeptical about the reach as well and wanted to adjust the bike to my needs without a lot of hassle. Just keep in mind, that the seatpost angle is very upright and brings you forward a lot.
I am running a 70mm stem with a short reach handlebar (70mm, similar to a PRO PLT Ergo 31,8 mm).
For me, an integrated cockpit is a nice thing if you have certainty about your fit. If unsure, I would go with a classic setup - you can always buy an integrated cockpit later on when you found your optimal setup.

Quote from: kb_79 on June 15, 2026, 10:43:03 AM
Hi everyone, i'm currently in discussion with Jack from Mondince for the aero gravel frame FM316. After a bit of negotiating, he sent me a proforma invoice for 800 € flat, all-inclusive (shipping to France included).
Here is the detailed breakdown of the package:

Frameset : FM316 Frame + Fork (Size XS)
Cockpit : 400x90mm integrated carbon handlebar/stem
Accessories : Carbon seatpost, thru-axles, and headset
Paint : Custom "Crystal/Ice FX" Glossy finish (Pantone 874C - Copper/Gold marbling effect)
Shipping : DPD/XDB to France included.
Sizing & Fit Question:
I am currently leaning towards the Size XS with the 400x90mm cockpit, but I want to make sure I am making the right call. Here are my measurements:
Height: 170 cm
Inseam: 78 cm
Wingspan: 158 cm
Given my shorter wingspan, I am terrified of being too stretched out on a gravel bike. Do you think the XS is the perfect fit to keep a balanced position, or should I consider a different setup?
Also, how does the 800 € total sound for a custom paint + integrated cockpit deal? Is it a fair price or on the higher side for direct-to-consumer Chinese framesets?

Thanks for your help!

I would say from a quality perspective, I could not be happier with the bike. Especially when I compare it to 2000+€ frames that would not have been custom painting included. Cockpit included sounds for me like a good price.

FWIW:
With your size, Mondraker would put you on a M frame ( https://mondraker.com/de/de/arid-carbon-rr-sl1752831894 ) which is a S frame for a Mondince. Are you sure you need XS?
In this thread are some links to bike insights and other pages where you can compare the sizing.
The bike is intended for a short stem (size S has 60mm at Mondraker), so with 90mm you are already going long.
Just mind the potential impact when you go too small (toe overlap on the front wheel, running out of seatpost etc,)

Quote from: SvenR on June 13, 2026, 02:06:24 PM
Anyone got specs or pics of the axle heads required for the fm326? I have the dimensions.
Specifically, I am trying to see whether they are conical or flat?
Waiting for my frame to arrive and wanting to use DT Swiss Plug-in thru axles.

It is flat

Quote from: Unsworn5836 on May 27, 2026, 01:51:58 PM
Anyone got an advice for a fitting frame bag?

Full length?
My specialized 3l bag fits very well into my medium frame
https://www.specialized.com/de/de/specializedfj%C3%A4llr%C3%A4ven-frame-bag/p/220880?color=362061-220880

Quote from: www on May 08, 2026, 10:02:27 AM
Received my FM316 frameset around two weeks ago, and the whole ordering process was an absolute breeze thanks to Jack's incredible support and responsiveness.
So far the only part I'm a bit unsure about are the Pathfinder 45s – they feel a bit slippery on Cat 1 gravel and especially sketchy once the ground gets wet. Might swap them sooner than expected.

Will share more updates after a few longer rides!

Very nice, reminds a bit of the Colnago color pattern.
FWIW, on tires: I tried the Schwalbe RX Pro (in 50mm) for the FM326 and they have been a blast so far.
They have been on the bike since January, so they have seen everything from snow to deep mud and now the dried out paths.
I am riding them with about 1.7 bar in a tubeless setup, no puncture so far and no slipping.
RX Pro: https://www.schwalbe.com/en/Schwalbe-G-One-RX-PRO-11654575

If that's too "offrad" for you, the R PRO is potentially a fit: https://www.schwalbe.com/en/Schwalbe-G-One-R-PRO-11654240.01

Quote from: Britton on May 05, 2026, 03:27:49 PM

Exactly. I can't change the frame after I buy it lol, thank you so much for your reply and input and explanation. I have a better understanding now. I've been researching frame geometry regarding the stack to reach ratio. I feel like I've narrowed it down to the Seraph/Tantan GR201, Mondince FM296 and SPcycle g028. You said the fm336 resembles the trek checkmate. Does anyone know what the gr201 or fm296 resemble frame wise?? That would be really helpful.  But beyond that, how do I choose stem and handlebar size once I'm set on a frame? Do I need to go get fitted and they could help steer me in the right direction? Thanks!

First of all, if you are not sure - don't go for one piece handlebars until you know what is right got you.
Handlebar width is fairly straightforward, use your shoulder width as a general indicator. I have a 420mm wide handlebar at 44cm shoulder width ( and it's fine to deviate a bit). To give you an idea what is not ideal:
The 420mm bar is actually the handlebar that came on the bike my spouse rides (it's a frame in S like small). Instead, she is sporting a 360mm handlebar now as it allows her arms to be in a natural position instead of being flared out (less strain on the hands and neck).
Channels like RCA on YouTube are gold mine for such information.

Reach is a different matter, if you have friends that ride bikes just ask around if they have a stem to spare and start from there.
If not, buy a few on AliExpress. Toseek aluminum stems work fine for me, cost about 10€ and carbon is not something that makes a difference here (my2c). Also note that handlebars have different reach, usually it's 70, 75 or 80mm.
If you have the money to get a bike fit: it changed riding for me to the positive and it was totally worth it - so that is something that I can recommend.

Quote from: Britton on May 04, 2026, 08:36:20 AM


I like that, comfort = speed. Thanks. Noted on the wheels thank you. That's the thing I'm struggling with though is choosing the right frame/frame geometry with my stats, a.k.a. height and inseam. When you say, choose a frame Geo based on my longer torso are you thinking long and low or more slack and upright would suit me better? Or basically if you can elaborate on your comment I would really be appreciative and interested in your insight. Thanks

The thing is, you cannot change the frame size afterwards.
So if your legs are shorter but the body is longer you need to consider what it means when you setup the bike.
A small frame might be ideal for the seat height but you might need to go extra long on the stem.
The opposite for a large frame, hopefully you can get the seat low enough but a regular stem (whatever that means) is fine.

To give you an example:
I am a bit over 180cm with 88cm inseam, so I have less upper body and  need a smaller frame to cater for the lack of reach. I am nearly maxed out on the seat post on my FM326 on medium with 77,5cm saddle height but I run a 70mm stem.

With that in my mind, go to the online sizers of the bike models ( like for the fm336 it would be trek checkmate). And because online sizers are notoriously bad by oversizing everyone, go out and read on the forums to find people with a similar body type to get an idea what might fit.
Also consider what the manufacturer intended in terms of stem length and saddle height for the given frame size. If you deviate too much, the bike might feel off.. E.g. with your dimensions the trek sizer is recommending a large frame with 100mm stem and 80mm reach handle bar.
So the bike is made for a long stem, which is good for you

Quote from: Kamool on May 04, 2026, 06:44:30 AM
At first, we had a discussion about what effects and colors they had available, then I created a design and specified what should be where, and in the end, they did that. I recall Jack saying that everything is possible with the design

Well, if anyone got an idea on how I can convince my wife about some extra bikes because of custom design, I am all open for suggestions 🤣

Quote from: Britton on May 03, 2026, 06:53:10 PM
Okay cool thank you very much for taking the time to reply and give input. I will talk to Jack at Mondince regarding the new 346. Yeah I was pretty set on 336 too but then learning the clearance is really 47 made me pause. I will also check out the spcycle.

Is the difference between 47 and 50 size tire really that big?

No it isn't, but you will probably find more 45mm tires or 50mm tires, but not 47mm available.
Get yourself a good pair of wheels, ideally with some larger inner width - that is more important than a 5mm difference in clearance.
Comfort equals speed on a bike.

You seem to have a long torso compared to your legs, consider that in the frame sizing and selection.