So this thread started with a very satisfied customer and ended with an horror story.

Where is the truth with these frames, are there different sellers who sells different products or are all the sl8 replicas total garbage frames?

Hi.

I'm completely new here and willing to buy good chinese cross country bike. I settled my mind for dm936 based on all the threads here.  I prefer 2 chainrings but somehow it's impossible to get a new frame designed to have front derailleur.

So I contacted Carbonda on Alibaba and over their webpage..no reply.
How to get to them, has anyone any other contacts? Thnx in advance.

If you were talking about road or gravel, i'd say ok to double.
Nowadays in MTB, i don't see why people would want anything else than single?

If you want to contact carbonda use the website, someone will answer you, or find a direct email in this thread.

enter

I made a quick comparative test with the 120mm rocker versus the original one.

I use a 42,5 shock and a 120mm fork. I just changed the rocker, same pressure in shock, SAG is nearly the same anyway, no adjustement on the bike settings.

The impressions you can expect by geometry changes are confirmed. You are more on the bike than in the bike, position for pedaling is in my case better, and bike feels more lively. Around the sag i feel it's a bit more supportive without losing comfort.
About driving what was predictable due to higher BB and steeper HA is confirmed, cornering is more lively, you lean and it turns faster.

If you ride mainly flat and prefer a XC feeling, i would recommend the 120mm rocker+120fork. 100mm fork+classic rocker gives probably equivalent sensation with more stability thanks the overall lower bike.

If your terrain is made of steep descents or fast corners (for example bike park)where you want stability i would go with 120fork+classic rocker.

I have briefly tested a fully mtb with a drop bar.
For me the drop bar doesn't allow to use the full potential of the bike and i always felt frustrated not to have a flat bar for more control. I lost the fun of the gravel and the ability of the MTB...
It wasn't a fun machine.

If i was to build a suspended gravel, i will go with max 50mm travel, big rolling tyres and road/gravel geometry.

It looks like a specialized saddle.
If the elita is really 100g for 50 dollars no wonder why it breaks easily

Thanks again.
Just to have an idea and compare different frames, around which value of reach/top tube I should stay in order to obtain neutral/comfortable position (not race or aggressive)?

I'm 174, my gravel is a gra02 size 54(medium), saddle height 72.5, 100mm stem and 2,5 cm of headset cover +spacer.
I think 390 reach on the medium 707 is too much for you, you will feel overstreched with more than 70-80 mm stem. With short stem on a dropbar i feel the steering becomes very direct and a bit twitchy.
For fast gravel roads, S sounds better for lower stack (more aero position) longer stem (more planted)  and more seatpost equal more flex and more confort.
But M can do the job too, it will behave more like MTB.