Quote from: gemcxx on May 19, 2026, 02:52:20 PM
Just checked...  its not resting on the bottom of the fork, there is prob 1mm between crownrace flange and flat part of fork. Maybe I didn't hit the PVC pipe hard enough, but I thought I was giving it a decent enough wack.  I did do some googling, and it said that for the crownrace that has the little opening (can't remember what that type is called atm), that they do not have to 'go all the way down' as thats part of the design feature, whereas, the other style that doesn't have the little opening, they do need to go all the way down.

Ok so I re=googled, I was wrong, it is saying a slotted crownrace should sit flush on the fork crown. 

Quote from: Shayzzz on May 13, 2026, 06:40:06 PM


Hey, so did you ended up building your bike ?

@shayzzz and @Leon1234

Not yet, I'm waiting for some internal cable foam housing dampener - should be here this week.

Popped on the fork, handlebar, crank and rear deraulier temporarily just to get a sense and it will look excellent!

Quote from: Leon1234 on May 19, 2026, 02:36:08 PM
Ok but did you get it seated on the bottom of the fork? In the one close up there was a gap between the fork and the crown which looked quite big.

Just checked...  its not resting on the bottom of the fork, there is prob 1mm between crownrace flange and flat part of fork. Maybe I didn't hit the PVC pipe hard enough, but I thought I was giving it a decent enough wack.  I did do some googling, and it said that for the crownrace that has the little opening (can't remember what that type is called atm), that they do not have to 'go all the way down' as thats part of the design feature, whereas, the other style that doesn't have the little opening, they do need to go all the way down.

Quote from: bigApple on May 19, 2026, 01:24:10 AM
My frame arrived yesterday.
I'm going to weigh the parts and maybe take a few pictures. At first glance, there are two drawbacks.
The fork doesn't have an integrated cone, so you have to use one thats onto the fork crown. This makes the gap between the head tube and the fork crown relatively large, which isn't very nice.
The biggest problem for me is that the seatpost has a minimum insertion depth of 120mm!
That means the seatpost is too short for me. Normally, a 350mm seatpost with a 100mm insertion depth is spot on for me with the SL8 geometry. So this seatpost is too short. Actually, I should probably sell the frame now. The seat height on the 54cm frame is therefore a maximum of 473mm + 220mm + 40mm = 733mm
My seat height is approx. 750mm

Damn it.

I just measured my FM126. With the seatpost inserted to the 120mm minimum, I have a crank to top of seat of ~805mm.

My seatpost is inserted to the 170 mark on the seatpost, and the crank to top of seat is 755mm.

You will be fine.

Quote from: bigApple on May 19, 2026, 03:55:08 AM
100% Sure. Without the crown, so only with the bearings, the headtube touches the fork.

Mine came with the crownrace and when I asked Jack he said it was needed. I used a piece of PVC to try and set the race and I don't think it will go down any farther. Mine has about a 3mm gap, larger than my 'brand name' bikes, I never paid attention to this before. I expect even serious bikers wouldnt notice anything. I think its like AMG Mercedes owners, 99% of population would know difference between C300 and C63s AMG but there is BIG difference.

Re Bearings. Jack said, 8mm is for the upper, and 7mm is for the lower, but if you need you can use the 8mm in the bottom.

Quote from: gemcxx on May 05, 2026, 04:01:14 PM
Here are the scope pics. Everything in the scope was very clean and smooth, except you can see in the seattube and in the downtube, where the rivnuts were installed for bottle cages and FD hanger there is some fraying of the carbon layup (keep in mind this is zoomed in, compare the fray size to the rivnut which is prob 7.5mm) I used the Google and it seems this is normal and a "Sausage" Analogy, "no one likes to see how the sausage is made". Internal imperfections are often cosmetic and do not affect the safety of the ride. Nothing to worry about so long as:

1) Loose Rivnuts: If the threaded insert (rivnut) for the bottle cage spins or feels loose, it can wear through the carbon over time. (they are solid, no spinning etc)
2) Soft Spots: Press on the area around the bolts. If the carbon feels soft or "mushy," it may indicate internal delamination (layers separating). (there are no soft spots)
3) Expanding Cracks: Use a "tap test" with a coin. A sharp "tink" is good; a dull "thud" around the hole suggests deeper internal damage. (it all sounds the same)


Even though the google said it was okay, I was curious and so had a look inside my Factor LS frame. You can see the extra piece of carbon they have which prob prevents the fraying.

I sent the pics to Jack at Mondicne and he said it doesn't affect the frame stiffness/strength. And he said it is okay to share these pics. He said they will add extra 3k on future frames.   

Now to build it and see how it rides.

I posted these pictures to Reddit to get some feedback. The most educated responses suggest its fine (See the attached image).

I'll ride it as planned and scope it again after like 1000kms.

Quote from: Ultramic on May 06, 2026, 04:41:07 AM
Those internal photos don't instill alot of confidence.

That was my first thought... I'm hoping the google is correct. Any other threads on here discussing this? Should I ask for a replacement frame?

I just scoped my two other carbon frames (2019 Giant Defy Advance 2, and 2010 Specialized Robouaix S-Works SL3) and neither of them had that type of fraying from the rivnuts and were clean like the Factor. I'd hope the S-Works would be clean given its cost of $8k USD in 2011 (I didn't buy it new hehe).

 

Quote from: Leon1234 on May 06, 2026, 04:03:59 AM
Did you specifically order the metall hardware in silver and gold or can that be customised (Silver/Gold/Black)?

I did not specify could probably be customized.

Quote from: Shayzzz on May 01, 2026, 11:58:27 AM
Thanks for the insight, that's really helpful coming from someone who actually rides the LCR018-D!
Here's my dilemma, this would actually be my very first road bike. Originally I was leaning towards the LCR018-D for the more forgiving endurance geometry, which seems like the safer bet for a beginner.

But the more I read, the more I see people saying that modern aero frames like the FM126 aren't as harsh as the old-school race bikes used to be, and that you can just set them up a bit more relaxed with spacers and a higher stem and adapt from there.

The idea of going straight to an aero frame and skipping the "buy endurance now, switch to aero later" path is tempting, and it also saves money and I'd only have to adapt once. But I genuinely don't know if that's realistic for someone who's never ridden road before.

What was your experience like on the LCR018-D? And would you say the jump to something like the FM126 is manageable for someone starting out, or would you recommend building up on the endurance frame first? I know this is not necessarily the thread for that, so if needed you can PM me, thank you for the help.

You say you are a 'beginner'... I would go with the 'endurance' geometry. You can't really go wrong with the 18D or similar style. If you really get into cycling, you can make this a dedicated groad/gravel bike, and then get a aero road bike. That is what I have done. Not sure your athletic background etc., but if you are beginner, the aero isn't going to matter too much anyway until you start riding 35kph avg ride speed and above. For example, I have the Factor LS that I'ved used for 2 years now (after starting with a Giant Defy with 32mms). I have to wheelsets for the Factor, a 25mm deep with 40mm tire set for gravel/groad, and 38mm deeep with 28mm tire for road only. The Factor is a gravel race bike so geo is a bit more aggressive than the Defy, but its still not a 'road race' geometry , and is also not as stiff, has longer wheelbase, etc etc. I have the Factor LS in crit race at avg 39kph for 45min, and also 35kph avg for 75km rides. I don't NEED an aero road bike, the Factor LS can literally do it all, as could the 18D. 

Overall experience has been great. Obvioulsy haven't rode the frame yet so tbd on that. 

Here are the scope pics. Everything in the scope was very clean and smooth, except you can see in the seattube and in the downtube, where the rivnuts were installed for bottle cages and FD hanger there is some fraying of the carbon layup (keep in mind this is zoomed in, compare the fray size to the rivnut which is prob 7.5mm) I used the Google and it seems this is normal and a "Sausage" Analogy, "no one likes to see how the sausage is made". Internal imperfections are often cosmetic and do not affect the safety of the ride. Nothing to worry about so long as:

1) Loose Rivnuts: If the threaded insert (rivnut) for the bottle cage spins or feels loose, it can wear through the carbon over time. (they are solid, no spinning etc)
2) Soft Spots: Press on the area around the bolts. If the carbon feels soft or "mushy," it may indicate internal delamination (layers separating). (there are no soft spots)
3) Expanding Cracks: Use a "tap test" with a coin. A sharp "tink" is good; a dull "thud" around the hole suggests deeper internal damage. (it all sounds the same)


Even though the google said it was okay, I was curious and so had a look inside my Factor LS frame. You can see the extra piece of carbon they have which prob prevents the fraying.

I sent the pics to Jack at Mondicne and he said it doesn't affect the frame stiffness/strength. And he said it is okay to share these pics. He said they will add extra 3k on future frames.   

Now to build it and see how it rides.

Quote from: gemcxx on May 05, 2026, 03:26:58 PM
Here are some pictures of everything that was included in the box, some close up of the facing and some outside shots showing the pearl finish. Weekend had some nice (though windy) weather so was out riding ahead of a spell of raining days now.

Here are outside pics and the tire clearance pics with GP5000 28mm. A bit less room than my initial assumptions but I think could still fit 35s.

Quote from: gemcxx on April 30, 2026, 11:56:15 AM
Hi All - Sorry was bit busy last two days. Here is some more info for you.

- Size 56, painted with pearl gloss finish
- Frame weight is 1055 grams w/ both hangers and the cage bolts. This is the 'Superlight' version. I was told the 'Ultralight' version was 100g lighter, but it was going to cost extra $100USD so passed on that option.
- Fork weight is 498g uncut
- Handlebar is 377g
- Seatpost is 227g
- Haven't measured weight of all the bits

Measured tire/wheel clearances... I put in my GP5000 28mm (seem to measure 29mm wide, I dont have a capiler tool), there was a good 10mm on each side, and 16mm to the top. I tried to put in my gravel wheelset which has Hutchison Caracal Rate 40mm (measure more like 45mm wide). They did not fit, but it it was not so much the width, this just didn't fit, it was to the top part of the underside of the fork that didn't have space so I couldn't get the wheel in enough to put the through axel. I think the frame might fit up to 38mm width tires.   

Bottom bracket area seems good so far. I was able to put the bottom braket in by hand easily so no threads were all good. Facing seems good all over.

In addition to the Frame, Fork, and Seatpost, the hardware included was headset bearings, race, headset spacers system, UDH rear hanger, standard front hanger, seatpost 45degree angle lock, di2 internal holder thing, seatpost-frame rubber thing, seatpost clamps for round or oval style rails, and through axels. The only had gold colored front hanger and bottle cage bolts when mine shipped.

Haven't had a chance to scope the inside, but from what I can see inside, the carbon is all very smooth

I will get around to posting pictures asap. The headtube front profile is not as 'hourglassy' as XMCS new aero frame AERYS, and seems a bit less sharp in some of the lines and angles, but the AERYS is ~$1900USD according to Patrick Lino's recent review, so the LT/Mondince is 1/3 the price.

Here are some pictures of everything that was included in the box, some close up of the facing and some outside shots showing the pearl finish. Weekend had some nice (though windy) weather so was out riding ahead of a spell of raining days now.

I have taken a bunch of photos and scoped the inside. Have to run out for the afternoon, but will be posting an update tonight hopefully, and if I can built it up over the weekend. 

Quote from: gemcxx on April 28, 2026, 02:05:00 PM
Hello everyone. I just received my FM126 frame from LT/Mondince yesterday. This was my first time ordering something like this. I was dealing with Jack over Whatsapp. He was very good at answering questions, always got back to me no later than next day due to time difference.

The pacakge came via UPS to Canada. No damage to the box, all the parts inside was well wrapped styrophome/bubble wrap individually. No concern about shipping damage at all. 10/10 for this. 

I have a small mini-cam scope. Purchased it to inspect a clogged pipe few years ago. Might have a peak on the inside with it.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Hi All - Sorry was bit busy last two days. Here is some more info for you.

- Size 56, painted with pearl gloss finish
- Frame weight is 1055 grams w/ both hangers and the cage bolts. This is the 'Superlight' version. I was told the 'Ultralight' version was 100g lighter, but it was going to cost extra $100USD so passed on that option.
- Fork weight is 498g uncut
- Handlebar is 377g
- Seatpost is 227g
- Haven't measured weight of all the bits

Measured tire/wheel clearances... I put in my GP5000 28mm (seem to measure 29mm wide, I dont have a capiler tool), there was a good 10mm on each side, and 16mm to the top. I tried to put in my gravel wheelset which has Hutchison Caracal Rate 40mm (measure more like 45mm wide). They did not fit, but it it was not so much the width, this just didn't fit, it was to the top part of the underside of the fork that didn't have space so I couldn't get the wheel in enough to put the through axel. I think the frame might fit up to 38mm width tires.   

Bottom bracket area seems good so far. I was able to put the bottom braket in by hand easily so no threads were all good. Facing seems good all over.

In addition to the Frame, Fork, and Seatpost, the hardware included was headset bearings, race, headset spacers system, UDH rear hanger, standard front hanger, seatpost 45degree angle lock, di2 internal holder thing, seatpost-frame rubber thing, seatpost clamps for round or oval style rails, and through axels. The only had gold colored front hanger and bottle cage bolts when mine shipped.

Haven't had a chance to scope the inside, but from what I can see inside, the carbon is all very smooth

I will get around to posting pictures asap. The headtube front profile is not as 'hourglassy' as XMCS new aero frame AERYS, and seems a bit less sharp in some of the lines and angles, but the AERYS is ~$1900USD according to Patrick Lino's recent review, so the LT/Mondince is 1/3 the price.