Quote from: Sander2177 on July 04, 2026, 12:50:29 PM
Serenade were kind enough to send me a set of their new 65mm "Snakeskin" wheelset for review.

Full disclosure—they sent these to me free of charge, but the opinions below are entirely my own. In fact, I'd already been seriously considering buying a set because I thought they looked really interesting.

I've now got around 90km on them, so these are only first impressions rather than a full review.

any update on these.  Top of my list for new stuff that I don't actually need for the bike.

Quote from: Aerodurance on August 12, 2026, 10:52:12 PM

Take a closer look on the HBR17 vs the HBR14 handlebars.
HBR17 looks a bit  in real world. If HBR14 was standard, i guess no one would take the HBR17 voluntarily

I really like the HBR17

Quote from: redpx on August 12, 2026, 05:26:55 PM
I'm in the final stages of putting together my order from LightCarbon and wanted to get your opinion before I pull the trigger.

My old bike was a Bergamont Grandurance RD7 in size 58, which actually fit me quite well. However, it was more of a commuter bike rather than a proper endurance bike.

I've now decided to go with the LCR-018D in size 54. For the handlebar, I'm planning to use a 400 x 100 mm setup (400 mm handlebar width / 100 mm stem).

A bit about me:

Height: 180 cm
Inseam: 82 cm
Shoulder width: 40 cm

My old bike also had a 400 mm handlebar with a 100 mm stem, which felt quite comfortable for me.

Do you think this setup makes sense for my measurements and the LCR-018D in size 54? I'd really appreciate hearing another opinion before I place the order.

Bergamont 58: 617 stack
LCR54: 569 stack  48 mm lower
LCR56: 586.8 stack 30 mm lower

The seat angle is also quite different so you'll likely be a bit further back. 


54 with a 110 stem would make it smaller, racier chassis, plenty of standover. 
56 with a 100 stem is a bit more geometrically similar to the bergamont and probably a better fit. 

Quote from: Valhalla on August 10, 2026, 03:06:55 PM
Hey guys,

Lurking around in this topic for a while, as i have LCR018-D on my wishlist for next bike.

I am currently in ordering phase and doing some details with their staff over e-mail.

Just interested can anyone suggest about size 54 or 56 as currently i am on Focus Culebro SL 2.0 2014(i think this is model 99% sure) and recently had a bike fit with my current bike.
According to his bike fit my reach to handlebar is 495mm and stack is 575mm and i have 655 mm height to handlebars (80 mm stacked with spacers) - i measured stack and total height so could be up n down a bit.
Saddle height is 785 mm so just interested no idea if i'm missing smth with size 54 with saddle height also.
Right now i have it size 54 with 100mm stem and 8mm added stack (according to their specs in mail).
It is shorter in height but i assume relaxed geometry will give similar position or should i just go size 56 to have more flexibility in height and reach is very similar.
I am 185 mm height with shorter legs and inseam of 81 mm (longer torso and shorter legs).
First bike i bought was 2 big for me (bike fitter shortened my stem from 110 mm to 60 mm) so just scared about going 2 big again.

Thanks for help.

54 frame + 100 mm HBR17.   They both have almost the same top tube length.  forget about reach unless you mean top tube length as they are two totally different measurements.  The 54 has 29mm more stack than your focus.  The other thing to consider is the reach on the bar itself.  How do they compare? 

Quote from: FLOz on August 11, 2026, 03:32:34 AM
I actually asked myself the same question when I changed the setup. My thought was that, since the GP 4-Season is not designed for tubeless use, the tyre might not have been sitting properly on the rim and could perhaps have contributed to the instability.

not likely TBH.

Quote from: pschei on August 09, 2026, 02:56:42 PM
My computer mount snapped when I rolled over a small bump during my ride this morning. Has anyone found an alternative mount that fits the three bolt mount on the hbr17 bars? Hoping to find something more durable than the stock mount and less expensive than the ti version.

I use a karoo 3 and it was attached to the bar via leash, so no damage to the computer thankfully.

very weird. I've got a insta360 x5 attached to mine along with a garmin 540.  sometimes use a small battery pack too and have no issue with it.  Ask for a warranty replacement.

Quote from: Aerodurance on August 09, 2026, 05:38:48 AM


Building up the frame and bike was pretty straightforward.
However, what I didn't like was tightening the bottom bracket cups against the carbon frame.
There was some slight abrasion during tightening. I really wish there was a steel washer between the cup and the frame. The current setup just doesn't feel right or durable.

thats not just a thing with this frame

Quote
Setting up the brakes on this frame is also much harder than on my aluminum Radon R1—it's quite strange.
On my Radon, I simply loosen the caliper bolts, squeeze the brake lever hard, and torque the bolts down. The brakes end up nearly perfectly centered.
Doing the exact same thing on the LCR18 just doesn't work at all. Are the hydraulic hoses extrem stiff brand new. I dont know.

That method doesn't always work even on a frame that it did before.  I use thin spacers and then do that

Quote

I initially torqued the seatpost to 6 Nm, but that didn't hold. It slipped twice during a ride, even though I used Dynamic carbon paste.
I have now tightened it to 8Nm, hoping it stays this time.

yes mine can slip to.  Design flaw with this type of method.  not just a lightcarbon thing

Quote

The thru-axles do not feel high-quality either.
I can already tell they will fail at some point.
It's a pity they aren't standard axles but use a proprietary cone shape instead.
LightCarbon should switch to a more standardized solution.

nope, disagree.  I regularly take my bike off and on a trainer.  absolutely nothing wrong with the thru-axles.

Quote
The internal frame storage was rattling like crazy. I had to glue extra foam inside to stop it.
I hoped i works nice from the factory, but for me, it didn't work out of the box.

have you clipped it in properly.  should be very snug.  Are you sure it isn't your cables rattling?

Quote
Finally, the bike is 2-3x as vulnerable to crosswinds as my Radon R1 ( round tube aluminium bike).
It is incredible how much of a difference there is.
While I was actually considering 65mm deep rims for my Radon R1, on the LCR18, I would now rather run shallower wheels with 40mm depth.

yes, you bought an aero frame.  always going to feel side on wind compared to a standard alu bike.  I felt the same thing (I run 56mm rims)

Quote from: FLOz on August 05, 2026, 07:54:05 AM
Good catch! I'll remove the stickers. 😉

I also realised that my Continental GP 4-Season tyres are not Tubeless Ready, even though I've been running them tubeless. So I'll remove them, clean everything up, install TPU tubes, and see whether that improves anything.

why? 

Quote from: chaseme on August 04, 2026, 10:28:43 AM
I am absolutely loving this build. Fantastic frame and bars from LC.

supper nice - was going to go for the red crystal but cost, time to paint and I like the murdered out look made me keep with the unpainted.

Quote from: DrRoB on August 04, 2026, 08:32:05 AM
Hi community, I'm afraid I still need your help. I just can't seem to get to the bottom of this creaking issue.
At first, I thought the creaking was coming from the stock bottom bracket, so I swapped it for a new Kactus BB; the creaking improved slightly.
Then I installed a new Praxis Works BB, and the creaking improved significantly—now it only happens when putting down over 200W of power on the drive side, specifically when the crank arm is between the 3 and 6 o'clock positions.
In the meantime, I swapped out the pedals and crank arms to rule out other potential causes.

After replacing everything and seeing a major improvement with the Praxis Works BB, I decided to try a one-piece BB and ordered the Bicone BB.
Unfortunately, the creaking persists—still occurring between the 3 and 6 o'clock crank positions when putting out over 200W, even when I'm out of the saddle.
Any help would be appreciated.

It seems to be a similar problem to the Aerodurance, doesn't it?

Did shortening the seatpost help?

probably got some dirt somewhere or bearings are aren't good (pedals)

Quote from: Aerodurance on August 03, 2026, 01:58:58 PM
3.) There is a ?knob? on the end of the zipper of the frame back. If that lays on the frame and gets bounced arround, it makes strong noises. I removed the ?zipper-thingy? first, found out about the noise the knob thning can still make and the put on my left over dampening foam around it. Is that overkill? Hell yeah!

you just tuck it in.  no issues with mine

Quote from: CorncobCowboy on July 31, 2026, 07:00:39 AM
Any suggestions on electric pumps that will fit in internal storage?

I read in an earlier comment that the Cycplus AS2 Ultra fits (65x47.5x28mm). My Topump TB2 pro doesn't fit (77×53×32mm). Wondering if Cyclami AM6 Pro will fit because it's ~1/3 of the price of the AS2 Ultra.

Any other suggestions under $100 CAD range?

I put mine in a small saddle bag along with my multitool. 

Quote from: Finiesta on July 30, 2026, 02:56:31 PM
I dont know if its been  talked but are there any 160 mm cranks with reliable powermeter (like magene p515) under 350 euros?

save and get assioma pedals

Quote from: rcwsr on July 30, 2026, 04:28:10 PM
I'm still waiting on my frame but have ordered XMCS 50mm 26mm wheelset and GP 5000 35c tyres - I just assumed the frame would take it, now I'm wondering if that was a bit optimistic.

no reason it won't. 

Quote from: Majoeric on July 06, 2026, 06:38:57 PM
Excellent, I will check these out! We currently use a HUP 37cm CX bike but was hoping for something lighter and maybe more aerodynamic for the next build!

Thanks

Daughter has a HUP straatrace and I looked at bigger bikes as she is 150cm tall.  She still fits the HUP and going up to a 44 isn't really worth it at the moment. 
second pic is older with shorter cranks and a lower saddle.