The thing is, you cannot change the frame size afterwards.
So if your legs are shorter but the body is longer you need to consider what it means when you setup the bike.
A small frame might be ideal for the seat height but you might need to go extra long on the stem.
The opposite for a large frame, hopefully you can get the seat low enough but a regular stem (whatever that means) is fine.

To give you an example:
I am a bit over 180cm with 88cm inseam, so I have less upper body and  need a smaller frame to cater for the lack of reach. I am nearly maxed out on the seat post on my FM326 on medium with 77,5cm saddle height but I run a 70mm stem.

With that in my mind, go to the online sizers of the bike models ( like for the fm336 it would be trek checkmate). And because online sizers are notoriously bad by oversizing everyone, go out and read on the forums to find people with a similar body type to get an idea what might fit.
Also consider what the manufacturer intended in terms of stem length and saddle height for the given frame size. If you deviate too much, the bike might feel off.. E.g. with your dimensions the trek sizer is recommending a large frame with 100mm stem and 80mm reach handle bar.
So the bike is made for a long stem, which is good for you

Exactly. I can’t change the frame after I buy it lol, thank you so much for your reply and input and explanation. I have a better understanding now. I’ve been researching frame geometry regarding the stack to reach ratio. I feel like I’ve narrowed it down to the Seraph/Tantan GR201, Mondince FM296 and SPcycle g028. You said the fm336 resembles the trek checkmate. Does anyone know what the gr201 or fm296 resemble frame wise?? That would be really helpful.  But beyond that, how do I choose stem and handlebar size once I’m set on a frame? Do I need to go get fitted and they could help steer me in the right direction? Thanks!

No it isn't, but you will probably find more 45mm tires or 50mm tires, but not 47mm available.
Get yourself a good pair of wheels, ideally with some larger inner width - that is more important than a 5mm difference in clearance.
Comfort equals speed on a bike.

You seem to have a long torso compared to your legs, consider that in the frame sizing and selection.

I like that, comfort = speed. Thanks. Noted on the wheels thank you. That’s the thing I’m struggling with though is choosing the right frame/frame geometry with my stats, a.k.a. height and inseam. When you say, choose a frame Geo based on my longer torso are you thinking long and low or more slack and upright would suit me better? Or basically if you can elaborate on your comment I would really be appreciative and interested in your insight. Thanks

Hello all!

My first post. I’m looking at building my first carbon gravel bike. I’m 6’3” or 190.5cm tall with an inseam of 36” or 91.44cm. I weigh 180. I’m very fit and love to run. I’m possibly thinking about gravel races in my future but for now I will mostly be going on day trip adventures 100 miles or less. Weekend warrior type stuff. I’ve been reading so much about geometry and different builds and manufacturers and Ali express and Reddit my brain is now mush lol. I think I have narrowed it down to either FM336 or FM296 but I’m not sure. My main concern is tire clearance as much as big as possible. I want progressive geometry, but not so racy that it hurts my lower back and I can’t enjoy riding. Any advice?? Attached is a quick chart of the models. Some info may be wrong or not updated, but close enough i suppose. Thank you in advance!!