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Messages - AdmiralAckbar

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1
Hello all,

500 km into my build and, like many other people, I have a creaking / squeaking sound. Every time I went above 200 W, the sound appeared with every pedal stroke.

I replaced the stock Gineyea BB with a SRAM one. It did reduce the noise a bit, but the squeaking was still there. I tried multiple things, and today I finally found the culprit: it is the door of the storage compartment.

Even though I have the v3 door, my guess is that under high power, the downtube flexes slightly and the door rubs against it.

Anyway, for anyone experiencing a creaking sound, try cycling without the door. It was very obvious in my case. I will try putting some tape all around the edges of the door and see if it improves the situation.

2
Hi all

Do I need to buy adapters to run 160mm rotors?

Thanks

Yes If its not furnished with your brakes you need to buy some

3
I want to install a 3 mm headset spacer but the ones I got with the frame are only 5mm or 10mm. Anyone knows compatible options I could buy or a 3D print available?
Did anyone changed the height of the headset spacers without the options given but LightCarbon ?

Thanks

4
Finally finished my LCR018 in black and silver tones.

Components:
•   Frame in size 54 raw carbon glossy finish with inframe storage
•   HBR17 handlebar (400 * 100 mm)
•   Serenade wheels, Model TAR50WS (25 mm inner 31 outer), 50 mm deep, SR278C Hubs
•   30 mm Michelin MICHELIN Pro 5 with TPU tubes
•   105 di2 groupset, 11-34 T 12 speed cassette, direct mount for rear derailleur
•   Basic Gineyea BB
•   Magene TEO with 170 mm carbon crank arm and Passquest 50-34 T
•   160 mm VXM rotor in front, 140 mm in the back
•   Cheap bottle holder (that I might change because it hinders the opening mechanism of the storage door), cheap bar tape and cheap rear lamp all from aliexpress
•   Ryet 3D saddle
•   Onirii carbon pedals

Build was quite straight forward nothing too complicated. I did use foam sleeve tubes for the brake hose.
8.5 kg as pictured (with pedals, wahoo and all my repair kit in the frame).

I did a small test ride. There is a small rattle sound but I feel it comes from the inner storage, I need to investigate. No seatpost or saddle slippage (I did put anti slip carbon grease though). My only complaints is the saddle bolts that are so difficult to tighten and the gap between the frame and the first spacer. That glossy finish is also quite fragile I already have some scratches due to chain drops or small shocks when building the bike. Finally I might redo the bleeding on my Shimano brakes because I feel the feeling can be improved.

I might change for a lighter cassette and also the saddle but other than that it is pretty much spot on.

5
I finished my build yesterday. Sorry to bring up the topic again but here is the total play between my frame and the bottom plastic spacer. A bit more than a mm. The fork is preloaded as I did tighten the top cap bolt to around 2 Nm. I was not given the plastic shim like I have seen on some build. Do you think that acceptable ?

6
These have just arrived! First impression, they look good to me, even more so for the £40 I paid.

Held off buying a rotor chainring until it arrived, so need to get that next before I can install and test.

God I am so jealous they are now 300€ + on Ali. If only I bought them earlier ...

Any long term review now ?

Anyone know an alternative to this mega carbon option or the aldhu carbon arms ?

7
Hello all,

For my new road bike project (I'm going with the Lightcarbon LC018 frame) I will be using 30 to 32 mm wide tires.
I am torn apart between two wheelset (both profile are compatible with the tires I want to run) and wanted some insights :

1st option : LightCarbon C53DB 23 mm internal 32 mm external
Pro :
- 600 USD with shipping
- comes with ceramic bearings + 54T ratchet
- Sapim CX-Ray spokes

Cons :
- Heavier at around 1370 gr

2nd option : Serenade 23mm mm High Performance Aero Bike Wheels 23 mm internal 34 mm external

Pro :
- lighter at around 1250 gr
- carbon spokes that looks gorgeous

Cons :
- A bit more expensive especially if I take the ceramic bearings.

For context I ride in France and in winter there is lots of rain and the road are sometimes rough (potholes) greasy and grimy.

My questions are :
1) Which hubs between the 2 wheelset do you think will be the more resistant, easiest to maintain and eventually replace ?
2) Are carbon spokes more or les durable than the Sapim and is it easy to replace a carbon spoke ? (I know how to do it with a steel one but never had carbon spokes wheels)
3) are ceramics bearings worth it  ?
4) Given my context which wheelset would you choose ?

Thanks !


8
finally got mine to ride. trying 48 chainring and 33-10 rear. wide crankset. 1x12 gearing and now the chain line is a bit wrong. I would now like a 44 chainring with 3mm offsets. does anyone have any tips on where to find one with 107 bcd. the bike now weight 7.7kg
-sram rival brakes/levers
 -sram rival rear derailleur
-sram red wide crank
-sram halo powermeter
-coldix cassette 10-33
 -lightcarbon wheelset
-onirii carbon pedals
-aliexpress carbon saddle
-shimano ultegra rotors
-vittoria rubino 34mm
-sram force flat top chain
-carbon bottle gace

the paint is the same as in the advertising pictures on the start page

What is the exact reference of the wheelset ? Is it the C53DB in 50 mm depth ?

9
Unfortunately the laser silver sheats are quite expensive I can understand them not wanting to swallow that cost themselves. What they had offered me was a discount on the laser silver because another person had also ordered laser silver at the same time.

Two peoples stickers at once are more efficient then seperatly, since you can arrange them to take up as little sheat as possible when cutting.

If you're not in a rush maybe ask them to notify you if someone else also wants the laser silver decals so they can combine them and give both of you a bit of a discount.

I mean they offered me the logo stickers free of charge they just don't want to apply it (if yes 250 USD extra like a custom paint). I would have to do it so I think I'm gonna go that way anyway and maybe not even stick them who knows ? I also like the full raw carbon no logo look.

10
Hello all,

Planning on ordering the frame in raw carbon with glossy clear coat. I want the LC logo in shiny silver. When I asked about this finish Chloe at LC told me that she can provide me with a sticker but I need to apply it. If I wanted them to apply it it was an 250$ extra. Was it the same for you guys ? For me there is 2 drawbacks if I do it myself : I fear I will be not properly apply it and also it will be above the clear coat.

What do you think ?

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