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Messages - rosteven

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1
Just got the pics in of my painted frame, so imagine it will ship soon, I'm actually quite impressed how it turned out. I've only ridden very boring looking bikes so I'm a little apprehensive now about it being more of a looker and having people talk to me as I'm an amateur, overweight rider as well as a bit of an introvert! So we will see...


Nice color !!!   I finally finished my build today, and I'm pretty much happy with the way it turned out.  I also put the finishing touches on my X68 (Kore Cyclone Wheels)...

2
Cut the tubing where the storage area is. You can easily do this with it in place. Then use a drop of glue above and below to fix it to the tube so the top section doesn't slide down. Because the foam is so thick it likely won't make contact in the area where the foam is removed.
Thanks, based on the recommendations I think the first thing to try is removing the form in the compartment and see if the pressure from the storage bags (I have two) is enough to keep the cable from rattling around when riding. As for the foam sliding down, the stuff was very tight getting on the cable in the first place so it will probably stay in place.  But if it looks like it might start sliding, I think I'll just use a small tie strap to secure it in place...

3
Since you have easy access to the area I guess you could remove the foam lining there and tape down some thinner foamy stuff to the downtube itself. The bag will press down and secure the cables/hose.
Thanks, not a bad idea...

4
Let me preference my question with "This LCR-18D is my first build, so if my questions sound kind of dumb that's why".  My LCR-018D build is finally complete, but I notice that when I try and place the storage bag in the compartment the fit is very tight. So here is my question: I used ZTTO Foam Sleeve around the hydraulic brake hose for the rear brake, which I ran from the head tube to the seat down tube.  The sleeve has an external diameter of 11.5 mm, when viewing the inside of storage bag area the sleeve seems to take up quite a bit of room. For the folks who have the LCR-018D with the storage compartment, are you experiencing the same issue? Should I have tried finding smaller sleeving, or did I make the run to long?

5
Tough call. It's a lot of work to get to that bearing. I'd personally be tempted to wait until it goes bad. If you don't ride it in the rain, it might never go bad. On the other hand, if you do ride it in the rain, it might go bad immediately!
Even though I ordered a set of Hambini headset bearings to replace the stock ones, I decided "What the Hell, I have the time to reinstall that seal" (plus I was a little curious if the steering stiffness would return).  Fork removed, seal reinstalled, adjustments made, and all is good - no play in the fork and no steering stiffness...

6
i may do that experiment if i'm bored enough with my free time.

but my statement stands.  if the latch wasn't the way it is where a rag could slide it open, the risk would less and thus more idiot/fool-proof.  happy to admit to being the idiot/fool.
Lol - fair enough assessment.  Based primarily on my build errors, that means that I will have to be extra careful when cleaning mine...

7
"LC just needs a more fool-proof, vibration-proof solution than their current method, that clearly other brands have figured out".  Maybe, maybe not.  As you have stated that you may have inadvertently opened the latch during cleaning.  As a Community Service a good test would be to recreate the same situation (same water bottle filled with water/ice, riding over the same roads) with a confirmed closed/locked latch and see if you get the rattling noise and a loose cover again. I'm curious if the problem is 1) latch/cover design, 2) unsecure latch cover, or 3) overloaded latch/cover...

8
Tough call. It's a lot of work to get to that bearing. I'd personally be tempted to wait until it goes bad. If you don't ride it in the rain, it might never go bad. On the other hand, if you do ride it in the rain, it might go bad immediately!
I don't ride in the rain (if I can help it), and the bike will not see gravel by choice. I might just let it ride for now (pun intended), if/when I see any downtime on the LCR I'll ride one of my other bikes until I replace the bearing. With that seal 1) having fallen out in the first place, 2) being torn in one area, and 3) being a little warped, it might be a good idea to just replace the bearing anyway rather than trying to refit that seal back on the original bearing...

9
I'm confused. Micro washer at the fork race? Where did it come from? How did it get there without you noticing? Is it the seal from the bottom headset bearing?
The item that I found was located around the base of the fork (race may not have been the correct term to use). I thought that I looked at the lower headset bearing before reinstalling everything, and I don't remember seeing anything unusual. Attached is a photo of what the item looks like, on closer inspection it does look like it is the seal as one side is a rubber type material.  So here is the dilemma, the build is complete with the everything working fine so do I tear everything apart, reattach the seal and hope that the tight steering does not come back, or do I run it until the bearings go bad and just replace the upper/lower with better quality stainless steel bearings.  Note that seal edges look torn, so maybe the smart way ahead is to just order the replacement bearings and be done with it...

10
It's not you. The top of the stem is angled, not flat. The cap that screws on is also angled, not flat, so everything evens out in the end. Since you used a cutting guide, you likely cut the steerer tube straight.
I removed the post because I figured out what was causing the issue; there was a thin metal micro washer on the fork race that I had not noticed. I removed the front caliper brake hose at the caliper, removed the fork, removed the washer, re-assembled everything, and it is now fine...

11
Hi LCR-Community! I have ready the hole thread about this frame. Many thanks for all these information I can find here. Maybe someone can help me. I'm struggling with myself about the frame color. so many choices are not always good. ;) So I have a question about the raw carbon look with glossy finish. Is it possible to see the carbon pattern on all parts or look it mostly black? On the most photos the painting reflects the light to much, so I can not see.

Many thanks in advance!
I have the raw carbon with glossy finish, and on my frame it is mostly black with some areas where you can see the carbon weave.  I think that it is the best looking frame that I currently own.

12

Do we have some news?
Wire hangers are nowhere to be found, I even asked a couple of my neighbors.  I will have to go to the store and buy a pack...

13
Yeah but I'm a bit confused about the rear installation. And you confirm the screws aren't included with the frame, I have to buy its?
My Shimano Calipers came with four screws (two different lengths).

14
I'm going try to remove it with a wire hanger.  If that doesn't work, I'm hoping that I can lodge it in the so tight that it never comes out.

15
If you do have some clothes hanger like these (https://www.amazon.de/Amazon-Basics-Kleiderb%C3%BCgel-Edelstahl-Verchromt/dp/B07Y3B6S4F/ref=asc_df_B07Y3B6S4F?mcid=d9736326b4ac3210a5d1944c8740d328&language=de_DE&tag=detxtgostdde-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=719118755665&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9666752629898701834&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9181090&hvtargid=pla-906382239559&gad_source=1&th=1), you can twist them into a long metal thingy that could help you loosen it up. I used this when part of the steerer tube expander fell down the fork and wedged itself in there.

Good luck man, you will get it out somehow, I believe in you :).
Great Idea - I hadn't thought of a wire hanger!!!  I will have to go out and buy some, we got rid of all that type of hangers decades ago.

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