You didn't say which bottom bracket you're getting from LC, but if it's the steel bearing Gineyea T-47 for 24mm axles, Wendy misinformed you as she did me. That BB requires a 52mm tool (with 16 notches). A tool for 50mm diameter BBs will not fit. Please see the attached, admittedly bad, picture. It delayed my build by a week and a half while I ordered and waited for the right sized tool.

I recommend the Heppe "retention" tool to keep the tool socket firm again the BB flange when you're turning the socket.
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPWDOjN

I am waiting for my LCR018-D frame, but I can comment on your  situation from my own research and experience on other bikes. 

I think what you describe is called "speed wobble", which I researched for a friend before I experienced it myself.  It is scary as hell, but it can be managed.  First, I would say that the wobble itself is not necessarily a result of the frame tube shapes or wheel depth exclusively.  Both can contribute to drift, and that must be compensated for.  However, speed wobble is primarily the result of the front wheel being lifted to the extent that the front end is no longer digging into the road.  It can happen if you are flying down hill and decide to sit up and use your body as a parachute (don't try it).  I have noticed that this happens only at my fastest downhill speeds, and you really need to pay attention to this to stop it from happening before it becomes unmanageable.  At first the bike starts to lose direct control, which can lead to a slow and then a more rapid oscillation.  First, you need to get in a low forward tuck and start to brake gently, which will move your weight forward.  If that does not work, stay low, and shift your weight back.  Keep your pedals to 3 and 9 O'clock (or 90 and 270 degrees) and lean the top tube of your bike into the more rearward thigh.  The key is to be moving more weight onto the front wheel while dampening the oscillation with your body.  In extreme winds or in places you anticipate wind (I know my tricky spots), you can lean the bike heavily to one side and shift your body weight to the other side, with the top tube resting on your leg.  For example, I lean the bike right, touch the top tube to my right rear thigh, but lean my body to the left.  This keeps the bike moving straight ahead.  You can practice at low speed and no wind.

The worst case I had was with Specialized Roubaix (not particularly aero) with 40 mm deep wheels. It was a fast downhill that led to a section of strong crosswinds that I did not know about.  The wobble was so severe that I thought I had a flat front tire.  Very scary!  However, after I came to a complete stop, everything was normal.  Once, and only once, did I have my rear wheel pushed an inch or two sideways after turning a curve into a strong crosswind.  It was on an aero Kestrel Talon frame with shallow wheels.  It was over in a second and was not a classic wobble, so not as scary.










Hi everyone,

I recently experienced a front-end wobble once while descending at over 60 km/h with a slight crosswind. It was quite scary, but gently applying the rear brake stopped the oscillation.

My setup is:

LCR-018, size 56
50 mm wheels
32 mm tyres

I checked the headset carefully and there is no play in any direction.

I know that a few other members have experienced a similar issue. Did you manage to identify the cause, and what solution worked for you? Was it related to the headset, wheel or tyre setup, wheel depth, spoke tension, or rider position?

Thanks for your advice.